Meter backboard

[nicolacraig]

Hi all,
Just after a bit of info, im in the process of refurbing our home and our electric mains are on a wall which i need to knock all the plaster off and re-plaster. How do i go about replastering behind the board?
Scottish power are coming out to change the meter on friday i know i should of asked while i was on the phone but i had a big enough head ache after expaining that i need a DP isolator supplied and fitted. I suppose pics would help but i wont be back at the house till the morning.
Any info would be much appreciated

 

[RF Lighting]

You just plaster up to it.

 

[qwilpen]

Hi all,
Just after a bit of info, im in the process of refurbing our home and our electric mains are on a wall which i need to knock all the plaster off and re-plaster. How do i go about replastering behind the board?
Scottish power are coming out to change the meter on friday i know i should of asked while i was on the phone but i had a big enough head ache after expaining that i need a DP isolator supplied and fitted. I suppose pics would help but i wont be back at the house till the morning.
Any info would be much appreciated

I agree with the last comment just plaster up to the board

 

[nicolacraig]

Thanks for your replies guys plaster up to it is then. I think i may need to make a new board and ask the spark to fit it as the current is old damp and a mess.

 

[big-all]

use space plugs they are great for uneven surfaces
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DfA-IirlJ2s

 

[Sureitsoff?]

love the wiring to the two double sockets above the kitchen units!

 

[JohnD]

if you are a bodger like me, you can make a plain board and space it off the wall by using the plastic caps off soft drink bottles. You drill a hole in the centre of each cap and pass the screw through the board, then through the cap, then into the plasplug in the wall. Plastic screw caps to finish look very neat. The spacers prevent the board rocking on any unevenness on the wall.

laminated kitchen worktop is very suitable, as the surface will not support a flame and it is very easy to wipe clean. Have the laminated "front" edge facing upwards so you can wipe the dust off. If you intend to pass cables through the board, use a hole cutter before fixing it.

p.s.
those space plugs look very handy, and useful on studwork walls. Although, if the hole is big enough to take the masonry drill for the plasplug, I doubt the screwhead will have much bearing on the kitchen unit, so might pull through unless you add a steel washer.

p.p.s
but, 60p apiece?

 

[nicolacraig]

is it up to the DNO to supply the backboard? i have plenty of chip board flooring cut offs about which should be big enough only need the main fuse and meter on as the CU will be directly on the wall. hopefully the electrician will allow me to remove the old loose/damp render behind the board while its off

 

[big-all]

if you are a bodger like me, you can make a plain board and space it off the wall by using the plastic caps off soft drink bottles. You drill a hole in the centre of each cap and pass the screw through the board, then through the cap, then into the plasplug in the wall. Plastic screw caps to finish look very neat. The spacers prevent the board rocking on any unevenness on the wall.

laminated kitchen worktop is very suitable, as the surface will not support a flame and it is very easy to wipe clean. Have the laminated "front" edge facing upwards so you can wipe the dust off. If you intend to pass cables through the board, use a hole cutter before fixing it.

p.s.
those space plugs look very handy, and useful on studwork walls. Although, if the hole is big enough to take the masonry drill for the plasplug, I doubt the screwhead will have much bearing on the kitchen unit, so might pull through unless you add a steel washer.

p.p.s
but, 60p apiece?

yes quite pricy but new and amazing
time and mass sales will bring the price down

they are fantastic for any application where easy adjustment is required

 

[JohnD]

old loose/damp render behind the board

backboards are spaced off the wall to prevent damp affecting them by direct contact.

 

[DetlefSchmitz]

is it up to the DNO to supply the backboard? i have plenty of chip board flooring cut offs about which should be big enough only need the main fuse and meter on as the CU will be directly on the wall. hopefully the electrician will allow me to remove the old loose/damp render behind the board while its off

They have to supply the board. It is supposed to be fireproof (yeah, right!) and you can't usually unscrew the meter from it without breaking the meter seals.

 

[nicolacraig]

thought i would update you all,
Spoke to scottish power and they told me not their back board only the meter call scottish power energy networks.

energy networks told me back board not their property its mine! i must pay for a disconnection of the head then get my carpenter to fit a new back board then pay for re connection, i have had to email them to get a quote will be interesting to see how much they want for the job. looks like its going to get boxed up and forgotten about as i have managed getting all the old render off and its down to brick. energy networks not really bothered if the main fuse is on a rotten board!!

 

[nicolacraig]

Job done!
SP energy networks called with a quote of £360 ish to disconnect and then reconnect once i replaced the old rotten"manweb" back board!!

Decided to go down to our local SP EN depot and spoke to a chap there, he came to my house took one look at the board and said he would be there that night to replace the board as a matter of urgency, so old board gone and new board in, along with an isolator switch free of charge which meant i could cancel the £81 job booked for the following day to fit an isolator switch happy days!!