mk1 KA rear hub nut torque

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2009 1.3

235Nm torque apparently.

Since my Silverline torque does upto 210Nm, is it feasible to wind it that bit more to get near 235Nm?
 
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Sure, but not with your torque wrench :eek:
Does this one have that horrible locking shroud that covers the nut?
John :)
 
They are a completely conventional system, although that car has taper roller bearings rather than the plain one.
I don't have a spring bar wrench I'm afraid - never used one either! Sometimes the nut has a blob of paint, done when first assembled.
I don't like that Ford locking mechanism but I do put some thread locking sealant on.
I do seem to recall that Ford recommended you to remove the entire hub - 4 nuts on the back - but I never did that either!
One little tip - if the drum has a large rusty wear lip, grind it away before putting the drum back on.
John :)
 
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Thanks John!

Yes, I always grind the lip of brake drums. The power file is a handy tool for that.
 
I’ve never torqued Ford front or rear hub nuts. I either just gun them up or use an 18” bar. Just do them tight. If your really bothered, tighten them to 210 Nm and then give them just a little bit more with a long bar.
 
I presume they're a spaced bearing assembly so they couldn't be overtightened?

Why can't rear wheel bearings on front wheel drive cars be floating type like the front bearings used to be on the old Escort and Cortina?
 
Advances made in the accuracy of machining play a huge part here......there's no way you could ever set up a taper roller bearing like that a few years ago.
The sealed bearings have a much greater life....ok, we can't adjust them any more or take them apart for greasing but they do last longer. I was forever replacing the rear taper rollers on VW's in times gone by - a good money maker though!
A bit like the old ball joints with a grease nipple - people mourn their passing without considering that they now last almost forever, so long as the rubber boot is intact.
Anyway, you won't have any problems with the Ka, but do check that the lining material isn't parting from the shoes.....all you need is a bit of rust setting in and off they pop.
John :)
 
I've taken the o/s drum off and it needs shoes.

What's the idea of hub nut? .... its got a metal jacket on it with teeth on the inner side.

Do I have to fit a new nut?

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Yep, that's the one....a cock eyed idea of a locking device. Ford would say replace, I'd say use it a couple of times but apply some thread locking fluid. With that sort of torque it aint coming undone!
John :)
 
I'm a tad baffled by the hub nut. This one has the washer attached so why has it broken off?

How does it lock if its pushing up against the bearing race?
 
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It’s come away from the washer. Easy to refit if you know how. If you don’t, I’d suggest getting another nut. It locks due to the fact it’s not a solid nut - the 'nut' is made up of a series of flat washers contained in that cage.
FC9A6016-AFA1-44A1-93E0-97451424FDA8.jpeg


Edit: If you want to put it back together, with the nut laying as it is in your picture, drop the washer over the lock tabs then using a suitable size socket thatjuuuust fits inside the tabs, give it a whack with a hammer to splay them out to grip the washer but if you don’t understand that, get a new one!
 
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Those prongs pass through the washer, and they swage out a bit to hold the washer in place.
Dont know who designed this one!
John :)
 
Just had to push the washer back on, with a slight bit of force.

I presume it should be washed in a bit of petrol to get any traces of grease out so not to impede the locking friction effect?

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