Moeller Relay

[gas4you]

Hi all.

Thick gas engineer needs help

I have just bought the above relay, DIL EM-10, for connecting a boiler up tomorrow.

As the instructions are non existent, well to me anyway, can anyone tell me if the A1 and A2 terminals are where I connect the L & N from from my 240VAC switched supply?

I assume all the others, L1-T1 etc are for the operating side that I will need from the volt free terminals off my boiler?

Am I correct or way out

TIA

 

[breezer]

picture? link?

 

[Lectrician]

A1 and A2 are always the coil. Apply 240v to these pair and the coil will energise, and the contacts will change position.

There is usually a pin-out diagram on the side of the relay to show what terminals the switching contacts are.

 

[gas4you]

Told you I was thick

View media item 7724

 

[RF Lighting]

Is the coil definatly rated to 240V?

It is not forced to be.

 

[sparkydude]

thats no relay ,thats a contactor, if you look at the picture on it it only has normally open contacts , ie as soon as you put 230v across a1 and a2 the four sets of contacts close , remove power and contacts open.Relays normally have normally open and normally closed contacts to allow for different configurations. if you only want normally open contacts the contactor is fine but if you need both a relay is for you .

Nick

 

[JACKC]

Agree with above, had magnified picture and you can see 3 sets of n/o contacts with a set of 13 / 14 for hold on. Hope this is the 1 you want. A1 L & A2 N.

 

[Pensdown]

To help us, what is the application and what is the contactor switching?

 

[GaryMo]

Agree with above, had magnified picture and you can see 3 sets of n/o contacts with a set of 13 / 14 for hold on.

Or plain and simply four sets of NO contacts.

Also looks like a 230v coil....

http://controlparts.com/klockner.moeller/diler-dilem.htm

 

[Spark123]

13&14 might be rated for control purposes only, whereas the other 3 are for power, but yep - 4 normally open contacts.

 

[gas4you]

Thanks all for your valued input

I did ask in the electrical wholesalers where I have my account for a 240V relay, but if it is a contactor then that sounds as though it is just the job.

The boiler I am wiring tomorrow is an ATAG and will only accept 'volt free' or 24V on the external controls.

This is rated at 240VAC and 16 amps max.

I just need this 'contacter' as you know have rightly told me it is, to energise from the 240VAC from the switched live off the Y plan and switch the 24V side to tell it to fire up on heat demand.

You have clearly helped me.

I did say I was thick I always imagined a contactor being a huge thing that switched high voltage/current applications.

 

[Spark123]

A contactor normally is a bit bigger than a relay, usually had double contact space switching although the picture on yours doesn't look like it does.
The concept is the same, small current in a coil causes magnetism which in turn operates a switch. The switch can drive a larger load, also provides some electrical separation between the coil and contacts.
Have seen contactors in all sorts of configurations - think it is MTE ones which have a stackable base, different colours have different amounts of normally open and normally closed contacts.

 

[toasty]

Is the pump integral to the ATAG boiler?

If so then you don't need the relay at all, just use the switch contacts in the two port valves directly to switch the boiler on.

 

[Lectrician]

If it is a Y plan, there is no volt free contacts in the three port valve head. Only the two port valves used in S plan systems have volt free contacts.

However, you should not really be running the 24v control through these volt free contacts in the valves. It would be fine to do so if the 'fire' link in the boiler was 240v. Having the 24v in the valve head and wiring to it just does not do it for me.........

 

[gas4you]

Yes it is an ATAG system boiler.

Yes it is connected to a 'Y' plan.

Job finished today and customer paid up and happy.

All points taken on board for the next time.