1. Visiting from the US? Why not try DIYnot.US instead? Click here to continue to DIYnot.US.
    Dismiss Notice

Moving cooker control switch and tidy others

Discussion in 'Electrics UK' started by kevsterdiy, 18 Sep 2013.

  1. kevsterdiy

    kevsterdiy

    Joined:
    2 Feb 2007
    Messages:
    105
    Thanks Received:
    0
    Country:
    United Kingdom
    Hi,

    I'm refitting/updating my kitchen cupboards like for like but the cooker control switch is located within the cupboard! It was like this when I purchased the house and has been like it since circa 1985.

    Please see the drawing/picture - cable is in red

    Question:

    Although I don’t use this cooker circuit at the movement this is not ideal/correct/stupid i'd like to take the opportunity to move it to the lower location.

    However I'm after the best solution an electrician would use to do this. I.e. where the existing switch is would it need joining with a 45amp terminal block/strip with a blanking plate (for accessibility), with a new/longer section of cable between existing and new location?

    Or if this is a no no, would it need an entire length of cable from the CU? I can get to it under the landing and bathroom but it’s not easy!

    As I said I don’t currently use this circuit because I don’t have an electric cooker, just gas. However it does have a mains 240v ignition. This is plugged in to a spur socket within the cupboard to the right (see blue cable In picture) which comes from a double socket above worktop level.

    This isn’t the best Idea because you have to remove and rewire the plug – but it ‘works’
    Many must be connected like this?

    Thanks.
     
  2. Sponsored Links
  3. PrenticeBoyofDerry

    PrenticeBoyofDerry

    Joined:
    30 Jun 2009
    Messages:
    21,628
    Thanks Received:
    2,383
    Location:
    Londonderry
    Country:
    United Kingdom
    You can do either.
    *joint cable with suitably rated connectors, keep accessible and fit blank plate.
    * Or install new length of cable.
    What you must do is route cable in permitted safe zones if buried, and protect any newly install cable with 30mA RCD.
    Unless cable is mechanically protected or buried greater than 50mm within walls but also be aware that there are regulations concerning the of depth of chase in solid walls.
     
  4. kevsterdiy

    kevsterdiy

    Joined:
    2 Feb 2007
    Messages:
    105
    Thanks Received:
    0
    Country:
    United Kingdom
    Thanks, the route won't change, nor the depth
     
  5. PrenticeBoyofDerry

    PrenticeBoyofDerry

    Joined:
    30 Jun 2009
    Messages:
    21,628
    Thanks Received:
    2,383
    Location:
    Londonderry
    Country:
    United Kingdom
  6. Sponsored Links
  7. kevsterdiy

    kevsterdiy

    Joined:
    2 Feb 2007
    Messages:
    105
    Thanks Received:
    0
    Country:
    United Kingdom
    Sorry should have stated the only non exisiting part of the cooker circuit is the 'new cooker switch location'
    breaking in to existing cable, which will need a new section of cable bewteen new switch position and old to allow enough to terminate. Old switch position can be delt with as previous reply.

    The inner cupboard spur that powers the cooker spark is not ideal, the socket it spurs from already has a spur to a fcu for an extractor. It would be nice to incorporate this better. Obviously its not over loaded but not correct.

    You often see plugs cut off to get to socket in a cupboard or above worktop.

    Still could be worse when I moved in I removed the extra spur from the spur socket which went right around the room behind the cooker to a washing machine. Yes it was a spur off a spura

    The second link makes me laugh, slightly off topic but the builder's in the 1970's needed that rule for cables/pipes under floor, like most houses of the era it makes you cry how the threw them in!
     
  8. flameport

    flameport

    Joined:
    10 Mar 2007
    Messages:
    9,248
    Thanks Received:
    1,790
    Location:
    Poole, Dorset
    Country:
    United Kingdom
    Replace the cable to the CU, but route it downwards from the CU, through the wall, under the units and up to the switch position.
    Far easier, less cable required.
     
  9. kevsterdiy

    kevsterdiy

    Joined:
    2 Feb 2007
    Messages:
    105
    Thanks Received:
    0
    Country:
    United Kingdom
    An option indeed, new one whole length.

    It would get rid of where the earth on this cooker cable was extended within the CU when the CU was changed (before my ownership cerca 2005), by crimping an extention of neutral colour cable then winding earth tape over it. Oh and i think there is another circuit with neutral with earth cable and blue tape, or the other way round but you get my drift!
     
  10. kevsterdiy

    kevsterdiy

    Joined:
    2 Feb 2007
    Messages:
    105
    Thanks Received:
    0
    Country:
    United Kingdom
    In regard to tidying the cooker ignition and the extractor can I have your opinions of these two options or other options please?

    (I can start a new thread if better?)

    Option 1 is to spur off the ring socket (1) to a switched FCU (2) from this on the LOAD (max 13 amps onwards) it would give switched control of an unswitched 1 gang socket (3) for cooker spark and another (or flex outlet) (4) for extractor. Extractor has it's own integral switches.

    This way would keep it neater, but one switch on item (1) for all isolation


    Option 2 is to spur of the ring socket (1) to a UNswitched FCU (2), from the LOAD (13 amps max onwards) wire in a switched FCU (3) to go to the 1 gang unswitched socket (4) for cooker spark (3 amp fuse max for this) , radially wire in (from 3’s SUPPLY) a switched FCU (5) to go to 1 gang unswitched socket (or flex outlet) for extractor (again 3 amps fuse max).

    This option gives full isolation switching, but looks more messy and starts to get close to the gas cooker rings (approx 250 between item 5 and gas rings)


    Or of course a better idea, some of the above etc.

    Thanks for helping.
     
  11. DIYnot Local

    DIYnot Local

    Joined:
    3 Sep 2019
    Country:
    United Kingdom

    If you need to find a tradesperson to get your job done, please try our local search below, or if you are doing it yourself you can find suppliers local to you.

    Select the supplier or trade you require, enter your location to begin your search.


    Are you a trade or supplier? You can create your listing free at DIYnot Local

     
Loading...

Share This Page