MR16 bulbs in bathroom keep on blowing out

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Hi all,

In our bathroom we have 4 MR16 light bulbs (standard ones, not LEDs).

2 work perfectly, 2 have developed a problem where the bulb keeps on blowing out within 2-3 weeks of a bulb being fitted.

I’ve been into the loft and looked at the set-up and each one is arranged as follows:

Mains -> Transformer (A) -> MR16 lampholder (B)

I’ve changed the MR16 lampholder on both of the problematic ones but the issue still exists, I haven't changed the transformer yet.

The other problem I have is that MR16 halogen bulbs are now hard to get hold of.

Any ideas on what I should do to try and fix this, ideally I want to switch these to take LEDs if possible.

Pics of A and B attached.
 

Attachments

  • A Transformer.jpg
    A Transformer.jpg
    255.9 KB · Views: 155
  • B MR16 lampholder.jpg
    B MR16 lampholder.jpg
    36 KB · Views: 137
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Get shot of the trannies and change the lamp holder to a GU10

Then fit GU10 LED lamps. Make sure (if you have them) that any dimmers are compatible with the loads.
 
Sorry, what's the process for doing that?

No dimmers to consider, but it is a bathroom. I thought that a transformer was required in a bathroom to reduce the voltage to 12V?
 
No such thing as an MR 16 lamp holder. What you show is G5.3 lamp holder. MR16 lamps can come with all types of lampholder.

There is no requirement and never has been for 12 volt lamps in a bathroom. Where did you get that idea from?

To change to GU10 get a sparks to remove the 12v power supplies and change the lamp holders.
 
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Ignore the pedant. He isn’t helping you in any way (as usual).
You do not need an electrician. Just get a bunch of GU10 lamp bases. Remove the transformers and connect the 230v cabling to the lamp holders.
Fit GU10 LED lamps.
Simples
 
Ignore the pedant. He isn’t helping you in any way (as usual).
You do not need an electrician. Just get a bunch of GU10 lamp bases. Remove the transformers and connect the 230v cabling to the lamp holders.
Fit GU10 LED lamps.
Simples
He may need an electrician. Not everyone is clued up. Supposing the 240v cabling won’t reach the lamp holders for instance.
 
He may need an electrician.
You assume too much. How do you know the OP is a he? Maybe he is a she. Or a he identifying as a she.

Not everyone is clued up.
Indeed. That must really be a worry for you. How do you cope with your inadequacies?

Supposing the 240v cabling won’t reach the lamp holders for instance.
The the OP will ask on this forum, and a helpful contributor will not drown the OP in trivial information that does not assist. The contributor will provide assistance to the OP having asked a few relevant questions.

I hope this has answered all of your points. Please enjoy the rest of your evening.
 
You assume too much. How do you know the OP is a he? Maybe he is a she. Or a he identifying as a she.
Irreverent though.
The the OP will ask on this forum, and a helpful contributor will not drown the OP in trivial information that does not assist. The contributor will provide assistance to the OP having asked a few relevant questions.
No one has drowned the OP in trivial information though.
 
Irreverent though.

Irreverent = showing a lack of respect for people or things that are generally taken seriously

Did you mean irrelevant = not connected with or relevant to something.

Like many of your posts that are irrelevant
 
Irreverent though
Irreverent?
No one has drowned the OP in trivial information though.
What was the point of wittering on about MR16 versus G5.3 bases when the OP is removing them and throwing them away!!.
Just another example of you just airing another of your hobby horses and not adding a grain of benefit to the topic.
 
In theory 230 volt lamps need an earth to the lamp even if not used, but it would clearly work with out an earth, so GU10 would seem a good option, the other one is to swap the electronic transformer for a toroidal transformer then you can use extra low voltage LED lamps. I was lucky I already had toroidal transformers.

These transformers will work with tungsten or LED and is the easy option saving running new cables with an earth.
TLT50SLASH1.JPG
there are electronic transformers now which are 0 - 50 watt rather than 20 - 60 watt which you have, This is an example they are lighter and cheaper than the toroidal one shown but output is in kHz range and I have noted many 12 volt G5.3 LED lamps marked 50 Hz, I think marked 50 Hz to show they need a transformer rated from zero, so would work with the one shown, but never tried them.

As to MR16 means Multifaceted reflector at 16/8 inch across technically the G5.3 LED in the main is not a MR16 as no reflector, however the lighting industry tend to name things after what they replace, so when the compact fluorescent lamp which had a folded tube replaced the tungsten lamp with a bulbous shaped outer the industry still called the new lamp a bulb, even when really a tube. They did lucky add the word electronic when they went from the wire wound toroidal transformer to the power supply which turned the AC to DC then back to AC at high frequency which allowed the use of a much smaller transformer inside, so we do have a different name electronic transformer v toroidal transformer.

But the lighting industry seem to call the G5.3 base 12 volt LED lamp that replaced the tungsten MR16 a MR16 even when it no longer is, so if they say MR16 on the packet then even if wrong we must expect people to call them MR16.

It is not as bad as low voltage, in nearly every country other than USA 230 volt is low voltage, and 12 volt is extra low voltage, but manufacturers seem to mark 12 volt low voltage not extra low voltage as the American is unable to work it out and they may visit this country. Manufacturers seem to think all Americans are thick, but rest of the world will work it out if incorrectly labelled.
 
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Irreverent?

What was the point of wittering on about MR16 versus G5.3 bases when the OP is removing them and throwing them away!!.
Just another example of you just airing another of your hobby horses and not adding a grain of benefit to the topic.

We don’t know if he is doing that.

I see Eric has just submitted a long post of irreverent information (according to you) much of it expanding on what I have said. Are you going to have a go at him as well or do you reserve your cyber bullying for me?
 
No such thing as an MR 16 lamp holder. What you show is G5.3 lamp holder. MR16 lamps can come with all types of lampholder.
There is no requirement and never has been for 12 volt lamps in a bathroom. Where did you get that idea from?
To change to GU10 get a sparks to remove the 12v power supplies and change the lamp holders.

OK those are factually correct statements but they lack the explanations as to why they are correct and this removes credibility.

Had you explained that MR16 refers to a type of lamp that has multiple reflectors ( MR ) and is 2 inches in diameter ( 16 times 1/8 of an inch ) then the OP would have understood why ""No such thing as an MR 16 lamp holder"" is factual correct.
 
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