Multiple LED downlighters

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I'm wanting to have 11 of these LED ceiling downlighters installed:

http://www.downlights.co.uk/downlights/ansell-titan-led.html

As they have their own drivers, is the circuit required serial or parallel given it will be run from the existing light supply?

Also the existing lathe & plaster ceiling will be removed and replaced with double layer of fire panel board, but are there any other requirements given a clearance of 70mm above downlighter body?
 
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I'm wanting to have 11 of these LED ceiling downlighters installed:

http://www.downlights.co.uk/downlights/ansell-titan-led.html

As they have their own drivers, is the circuit required serial or parallel given it will be run from the existing light supply?

Also the existing lathe & plaster ceiling will be removed and replaced with double layer of fire panel board, but are there any other requirements given a clearance of 70mm above downlighter body?

Parallel.
Serial is computer speak for data and nothing to do with this.
You probably meant series bit you don't wire ceiling lights in series. Mostly used for Christmas tree lights.
 
I'm wanting to have 11 of these LED ceiling downlighters installed:
Friday evening popcorn time, perhaps? :) (ellal, ignore this, it's just a 'forum joke'!)

Kind Regards, John
 
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Parallel.
Serial is computer speak for data and nothing to do with this.
You probably meant series bit you don't wire ceiling lights in series. Mostly used for Christmas tree lights.
Could you point me to a circuit diagram?
 
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I'm wanting to have 11 of these LED ceiling downlighters installed:
Does the fact that you need 11 lights to light up a room not indicate that the lights aren't very good at lighting up rooms?
Large north facing room, requires a lot of light at times. These are 800 lm each but dimmable when less light needed. I've seen them installed and they seem to do the job.
 
I'm wanting to have 11 of these LED ceiling downlighters installed:
Does the fact that you need 11 lights to light up a room not indicate that the lights aren't very good at lighting up rooms?
Large north facing room, requires a lot of light at times. These are 800 lm each but dimmable when less light needed. I've seen them installed and they seem to do the job.

Given the parallel arrangement, is it best practice to 'loop in/out' of each fitting or to use seperate blocks?
 
Given the parallel arrangement, is it best practice to 'loop in/out' of each fitting or to use seperate blocks?

If you read the specification, you will read:

They have a push in loop in, loop out cable connections that that allows for a faster installation.

So each fitting has the capability for the connections without the need for additional terminal blocks.
 
Large north facing room, requires a lot of light at times.
I'm sure it does, but 11 lights?


These are 800 lm each
Can you picture how bright the room would be if you had 11 x 60W GLS pendants? Or, if you used that type, how many would you actually need?


I've seen them installed and they seem to do the job.
They seem to do the job only because a large number of them are used in order to work around the fundamental unsuitability for general room illumination of that type of lamp, which stems from a deliberate design to make a lamp with a specific characteristic which makes it unsuitable. That lamp format was originally designed to be a projector lamp, and it produces a narrow beam of light. You will probably often have seen them called spotlights.
 
I see nothing to tell what distance is required.
422.3.1 Except for equipment for which an appropriate product standard specifies requirements, a luminaire shall be kept at an adequate distance from Combustible materials. Unless otherwise recommended by the manufacturer, a small spotlight or projector shall be installed at the following minimum distance from combustible materials:
(i) Rating up to 100 W 0.5 m
(ii) Over 100 and up to 300 W 0.8 m
(iii) Over 300 and up to 500 W 1.0 m
NOTE: A luminaire with a lamp that could eject flammable materials in case of failure should be constructed with a safety protective shield for the lamp in accordance with the manufacturer's instructions.
Is the general instructions and the manufacturer can publish data allowing the lights to be mounted closer. The 0 - 100W limit is clearly a problem with modern day LED lighting as likely it will not get hot enough to cause any worries and is likely OK. However they do produce some heat and the only person who can say what cooling is required is the manufacturer.

As to light output I have swapped many of my GU10 lamps for 2W LED one odd one has a 3W my son has used 7W and I really can't see the difference in light output. The 2W and 3W are either side of the bed and using the camera's light meter aimed at the wall both seem to give out the same amount of light.

I did try some 0.58W which were useless but it would seem the area of the lamp makes a big difference so 6 x 2W gives out more light than 3 x 4W and it seems there is an argument about lumen output of bunched LED's some measure the total output and some measure individual output and multiply by number of LED's in the cluster. So a pineapple light bulb with a large area of 7W gives off more useful light than a MR16 spot lamp of 7W purely due to the area the LED's are spread over but the lumen rating can be the same.

I went to my sons to help him in his very small kitchen with 7 x 7W GU10 MR16 LED spot lights in the ceiling and had to use the touch of my bike the read the display on the central heating boiler. I don't blame the spots I blame where they are aimed. Had they been the pod type and been aimed at the wall then they would have worked but they are aimed straight down onto the floor which means there is no spread to the light.
 
They seem to do the job only because a large number of them are used in order to work around the fundamental unsuitability for general room illumination of that type of lamp, which stems from a deliberate design to make a lamp with a specific characteristic which makes it unsuitable. That lamp format was originally designed to be a projector lamp, and it produces a narrow beam of light. You will probably often have seen them called spotlights.
Ignoring the sarcasm, we've seen the same lights do the 'required job' in a similar set up as we want!

It was the technical side I was asking about, not a blind opinion as to 'suitability' ;)

If you read the specification, you will read...

So each fitting has the capability for the connections without the need for additional terminal blocks.
I noticed the capability, but was after 'best practice'.

The setup I saw was apparently wired with blocks, and I was told it was because it is a requirement that an earth is available if the fittings were changed(?)
 
It was the technical side I was asking about, not a blind opinion as to 'suitability' ;)
I'm sure that's the case. However, as per what I hinted would undoubtedly happen in my ('popcorn') comment early in the thread, you have come to a forum which has a resident provider of unsolicited opinions about the 'suitability' of downlights :)

Kind Regards, John
 
Everyone is entitled to my opinion.
"Entitled" is an interesting word to use. Yes, they have a legal right to be told your opinion, but whether or not they want it, or welcome it, is a different matter - about which many of us have our opinions.

Kind Regards, John
 

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