Multiple Security Lights / Multiple Motion Sensors

First thing- if your motion detectors have volt free contacts in them (which my only standalone detector has) then you can run 24v through the switch circuit.
Or for ease of wiring you can use 240v relays on the output of the detectors to switch 24v DC to the relays for the lights (via diode matrix).
Your control multicore has to be rated at 240v or greater and routed properly (safe zones etc). Alarm cable, CAT5 etc may not be rated- check the spec. If it is rated then you can use it but why you need it I don't know, much easier to use 1mm T & E to each lamp and do your switching in the relay box.

Thanks for the advice.(y)
I'm not sure that my detectors are volt free and tbh I think sticking to the 240v and paying a bit more for the relays seems to be a simpler, if not less expensive, set up so unless I discover a reason why it will not work I will most likely go down that route.
With regard to using control cable I just thought this would be easier and tidier as I could just run one 8 core cable around the entire loft perimeter picking up the motion detectors switched lives on the separate cores and then just the one cable back to the relay box. I do have some control cable knocking about that's going spare so I will check to ensure it is 240v rated. In fact I think I could also do this for the output of the relays to the lights themselves remembering of course to include a neutral and earth. Each light is only 50W so just 400W in total.

Theres also some stand alone PIR sensors that can run off 24v with only minor modifications
Thanks for info but I've already got the sensors and think I am going to stick to the 240V set up unless it proves to be overly complex, overly costly or just wrong. (y)
 
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Some day you will not be able to work on those lights, be it old, ill, or dead, it does not matter, so what ever you do make a plan and put the plan at the consumer unit so those who follow will know what you have done. Do remember any item outside can get water in it, so ensure if that happens there is an easy way to isolate.
 
Some day you will not be able to work on those lights, be it old, ill, or dead, it does not matter, so what ever you do make a plan and put the plan at the consumer unit so those who follow will know what you have done. Do remember any item outside can get water in it, so ensure if that happens there is an easy way to isolate.

Good advice, thanks. (y)

Throughout the entire build I've been ensuring all JB's are in accessible places and labelled and then all info relating to back boxes, JB's. lights etc are recorded for future use. This is also backed up with lots of photo's.

I had not really thought of being able to isolate outdoor items but I will as it does make sense.
Could I just use an RCBO within the relay box as the isolation switch for all 8 security lights and another for all 8 motion detectors?
And can I ask if it is compulsory or optional to have an isolation switch for all outdoor items?
 
It is optional, I know you can get duel pole RCBO's for when using a TT supply, but with RCBO's really the line only would do, that would not be the case with MCB and RCD however, basic pointing out neutral earth faults can trip a RCD, which is main reason for using isolators. An isolator switches all lives, a switch often only switches line and the neutral stays connected.
 
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The obvious way to wire it is to use a multi-core as you suggest, with JBs at convenient locations, and 3 or 4 core flex to each light or sensor. You don't want to be taking all those cores into what can be very cramped terminal boxes on the devices. You could consider using surface boxes and putting a 2/3 pole switch on top that can isolate an individual device for troubleshooting.

On the other hand, while 8 lights may be sensible (I don't know what your property is like), 8 lights and 8 sensors does seem overkill and will mean a lot of connections - for 8 sensors on one cable, you'll be looking at 11 core cable (1 permanent line, 1 neutral, one earth, and 8 switched lines); for 8 lights you'll be needing 10 core cable (8 switched lines, 1 neutral, 1 earth). And at each JB you'll need to connect them all between the "in" and "out" cable on the JB as well as to the tee'd off circuit. Depending on how things are located, you could tee off more than one sensor or light from a single JB - less JBs and less connections to make.

As to cable sizes, you don't need 2.5mm cable from the CU - you only need whatever is appropriate to the total prospective load and the overcurrent protection. Typically a lighting circuit would only be 1.0mm² and on a 6A MCB; from memory for most installation methods, 1.0mm would be OK with a 10A MCB. If using 0.5mm² cable, then you'd need to fuse appropriately - but that might be OK on a 6A MCB (CBA to check in the books right now).
And you might want to fit some smaller rating MCBs in your relay cabinet to split the light and sensor supplies - otherwise a single fault anywhere in the system will take out all your lights. So, for example, you might split the sensors across two circuits, and the lights across two more - so a single fault could only take out half of them. You would want two pole switching devices, that way you isolate the neutrals as well which means you can close an RCD in the event of a N-E fault in one part of the circuit - but you do then need to be very careful to avoid circuits with a live on one circuit and the neutral on another as that would be dangerous. But it does increase the amount of cabling needed.

And as already mentioned, make a detailed drawing - give every "circuit"* a number, number all the wires to match, and make sure that a copy of the drawing is where anyone needing to work on the system can find it.
* In this case, circuit means one or more wires electrically connected. So "5" could be a wire that loops from one relay, to another, to another, to a terminal, and then out through the cabling to more than one light.
The one thing that's guaranteed to have someone scratching his (or her) head and ripping stuff to bits till nothing works (and it can't be put back together) is to have a box full of a gazillion brown wires, none of which are labelled, and which have at least 17 (1 permanent live, 8 sensor switched lines, 8 switched lines out to lights) different functions.
 
I've not noticed this thread for a while. I make an apology for my negative comment earlier, it appears your knowledge is better than what came across in your OP.

If all of the wiring is in the loft and the relay enclosure can be too I'd not cot consider multicore cable, it will add to the complication with multiple large junction boxes everywhere and probably cost more in the long run.

There is no need to mess about with diodes and powersupplies, again save the complication. Your idea for multipole relays is the simple option, it will probably be more economical to use 14pin 4 pole relays... example: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/173322281771?hash=item285ad0232b:g:4RkAAOSwkKBa~U5A

EDIT: I managed to select a 12V version, put a '240V 4 pole relay and base' search in EBAY, theres usually loads.
 
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It is optional, I know you can get duel pole RCBO's for when using a TT supply, but with RCBO's really the line only would do, that would not be the case with MCB and RCD however, basic pointing out neutral earth faults can trip a RCD, which is main reason for using isolators. An isolator switches all lives, a switch often only switches line and the neutral stays connected.
So the reason for having the isolator switch is for when working on the lights, just like a bathroom fan?
And if so I could just use 1 that isolates the entire relay enclosure and therefore all lights and relays whilst working on them?
 
The obvious way to wire it is to use a multi-core as you suggest, with JBs at convenient locations, and 3 or 4 core flex to each light or sensor. You don't want to be taking all those cores into what can be very cramped terminal boxes on the devices. You could consider using surface boxes and putting a 2/3 pole switch on top that can isolate an individual device for troubleshooting.

On the other hand, while 8 lights may be sensible (I don't know what your property is like), 8 lights and 8 sensors does seem overkill and will mean a lot of connections - for 8 sensors on one cable, you'll be looking at 11 core cable (1 permanent line, 1 neutral, one earth, and 8 switched lines); for 8 lights you'll be needing 10 core cable (8 switched lines, 1 neutral, 1 earth). And at each JB you'll need to connect them all between the "in" and "out" cable on the JB as well as to the tee'd off circuit. Depending on how things are located, you could tee off more than one sensor or light from a single JB - less JBs and less connections to make.

As to cable sizes, you don't need 2.5mm cable from the CU - you only need whatever is appropriate to the total prospective load and the overcurrent protection. Typically a lighting circuit would only be 1.0mm² and on a 6A MCB; from memory for most installation methods, 1.0mm would be OK with a 10A MCB. If using 0.5mm² cable, then you'd need to fuse appropriately - but that might be OK on a 6A MCB (CBA to check in the books right now).
And you might want to fit some smaller rating MCBs in your relay cabinet to split the light and sensor supplies - otherwise a single fault anywhere in the system will take out all your lights. So, for example, you might split the sensors across two circuits, and the lights across two more - so a single fault could only take out half of them. You would want two pole switching devices, that way you isolate the neutrals as well which means you can close an RCD in the event of a N-E fault in one part of the circuit - but you do then need to be very careful to avoid circuits with a live on one circuit and the neutral on another as that would be dangerous. But it does increase the amount of cabling needed.

And as already mentioned, make a detailed drawing - give every "circuit"* a number, number all the wires to match, and make sure that a copy of the drawing is where anyone needing to work on the system can find it.
* In this case, circuit means one or more wires electrically connected. So "5" could be a wire that loops from one relay, to another, to another, to a terminal, and then out through the cabling to more than one light.
The one thing that's guaranteed to have someone scratching his (or her) head and ripping stuff to bits till nothing works (and it can't be put back together) is to have a box full of a gazillion brown wires, none of which are labelled, and which have at least 17 (1 permanent live, 8 sensor switched lines, 8 switched lines out to lights) different functions.

Hi and thanks for all of your advice, (y)!

I think your post is agreeing to most of my idea with the following changes...
I will split the lights and sensors into 2 circuits as you suggest, thanks, this will allow for a circuit fault without losing all lights / sensors and will also allow me to isolate from the relay enclosure one of the circuits.
I will ensure that it is very clear as to which are on each circuit to avoid any confusion.
I will use multi coloured multi core cable and label accordingly.
I have detailed below each JB and the enclosure details which I believe should be OK if I am OK to join into the multicore as described to minimise joins?

So for each circuit....

Sensors..
1 good sized JB per sensor mounted in an accessible position in the loft.
1 T&E cable in a radial circuit supplied from the relay enclosure (appropriate MCB) for the sensors, (permanent live, neutral and earth), hence 3 x 4 port (a port spare) wago type connections per JB.
The multi core (now just 4 core due to splitting into 2 circuits) I was planning to use only for the switched lives and I was going to only join into the appropriately coloured core for each sensors, hence 1 x 3 port wago (port spare again).
So 2 cables into and 3 cables out of each JB and 4 wago's per JB.

Lights...
I was going to use 1 good sized JB per relay mounted in an accessible position in the loft.
The multi core (now just 6 core due to splitting into 2 circuits) from the relays / relay enclosure I was planning to use as per your post and I would join into the earth and Neutral and appropriate switched live only, hence 3 x 4 port (1 port spare) wago's.
So 1 cable in and 2 cables out per JB and 3 Wago's per JB.

All JB's numbered and a folder containing Info about each one.

The relay enclosure would then have..
1 T&E from the CU coming in.
2 T&E going to the 2 sensor circuits.
2 multi core coming in from the sensors carrying the switched lives.
2 multi core going out to the lights carrying carrying the switched lives, neutral and earth.

Thanks again for advice and in advance for hopefully more ;)
Mark.
 
I've not noticed this thread for a while. I make an apology for my negative comment earlier, it appears your knowledge is better than what came across in your OP.

If all of the wiring is in the loft and the relay enclosure can be too I'd not cot consider multicore cable, it will add to the complication with multiple large junction boxes everywhere and probably cost more in the long run.

There is no need to mess about with diodes and powersupplies, again save the complication. Your idea for multipole relays is the simple option, it will probably be more economical to use 14pin 4 pole relays... example: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/173322281771?hash=item285ad0232b:g:4RkAAOSwkKBa~U5A

EDIT: I managed to select a 12V version, put a '240V 4 pole relay and base' search in EBAY, theres usually loads.

Hi,

Thanks for updating your view and for your apology which is not required but gratefully accepted ;).
TBH I don't know a huge amount apart from the basics.
I have however learnt quite a bit from this thread and I am now confident that as per your post the 240v AC relays are the way to go.
Can I just ask if 4th pole is a spare as I only want to link 3 lights per relay?
I was planning to use a JB for every light and sensor anyway and if you have time to read my last post it shows how I believe I can use the multi core in a way to minimise the amount of cabling I have to use.
Note that I also have a reasonable amount of multicore lying about anyway and after this build I doubt I would need it so in theory it's a zero cost for me.

Any feedback, good or bad ;), gratefully received.
Mark.
 
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Hi,

Thanks for updating your view and for your apology which is not required but gratefully accepted ;).
TBH I don't know a huge amount apart from the basics.
I have however learnt quite a bit from this thread and I am now confident that as per your post the 240v AC relays are the way to go.
Can I just ask if 4th pole is a spare as I only want to link 3 lights per relay?
I was planning to use a JB for every light and sensor anyway and if you have time to read my last post it shows how I believe I can use the multi core in a way to minimise the amount of cabling I have to use.
Note that I also have a reasonable amount of multicore lying about anyway and after this build I doubt I would need it so in theory it's a zero cost for me.

Any feedback, good or bad ;), gratefully received.
Mark.
The 4th pole will be spare (but it may enable a little future fiddle factor if required).

Installing 16 junction boxes sounds like a bit of a faff to me when all of those connexions will exist in the control panel.

At each sensor you will require L, N, SL & E. At each light you will require SL, N & E. Having noticed the error in the number of wagos required i sort of switched off and didn't read all of the post. Therefore I'm not sure if you listed all, but for 4 sensors it's 7 cores and 4 lights it's 6 cores. If you are going for multicore there is no reason the sensor and light wiring can't be in the same cable, you'll see from this the neutral and earth are duplicated and can be combined if you have suitable cable, You'll also notice an amount of unused cores.
upload_2021-8-23_22-7-11.png


The switced live in the lights circuit should be in the same cable as Neutral to reduce interference (LED lights do tend to generate interference due to the PWM current control and keeping the L&N in very close proximity in the same cable helps to reduce the associated radiation). The same is technically tru for the sensor circuit but with the lower currents involved there is a lesser issue.
Personally I'd still be looking at running indivudual cables back to the panel. Realistically the amount of cable involved between the 2 methods won't be much difference but you'll be saving on cost of JBs.
 
Hi Sunray,

Thanks for detailed info - much appreciated.(y)(y)
I see what you have done by combining the LNE and NE into the multicore and this is something I will try to do for the reasons you have given.
Number of JB's not a problem to me as I have to have 1 for each of the lights anyway as they are supplied with pre-wired cable.
Also would rather do the sensor joins in a JB rather than the sensor itself, the boxes are only £1.24 each at CPC so not a great expense.
Not sure I got the number of wago's wrong per JB as I think it agrees with your diagram, 4 wagos for the sensor and 3 for the lights, all 4 way so as to leave at least 1 spare connection just in case but if I have got it wrong I will find out soon enough!:LOL:

So thanks again for all of your help.
Mark.
 
Hi Sunray,

Thanks for detailed info - much appreciated.(y)(y)
I see what you have done by combining the LNE and NE into the multicore and this is something I will try to do for the reasons you have given.
Number of JB's not a problem to me as I have to have 1 for each of the lights anyway as they are supplied with pre-wired cable.
Also would rather do the sensor joins in a JB rather than the sensor itself, the boxes are only £1.24 each at CPC so not a great expense.
Not sure I got the number of wago's wrong per JB as I think it agrees with your diagram, 4 wagos for the sensor and 3 for the lights, all 4 way so as to leave at least 1 spare connection just in case but if I have got it wrong I will find out soon enough!:LOL:

So thanks again for all of your help.
Mark.
Unless I'm drawing something different to your plans I make the number of joints per box up to 7, I've added numbers to the sketch.
upload_2021-8-24_10-35-33.png

Or combined:
upload_2021-8-24_11-19-39.png
 
Too late now but personally I would use ELV ( 12 volt DC ) sensors.

Each lamp ( or group of lamps ) would have a control relay switching the Live to the lamp(s)

Each of the 12 V DC relays coils would be connected via diodes to one or more of the switched 12 V outputs from the sensors to determine which lamp(s) are controlled by which sensor(s).

Many 230 V sensors with relay outputs can be converted to ELV operation by removing the 230 Volt to ELV circuit in the sensor.
If you do this conversion then indelible mark the sensor(s) as being ELV and not 230 V
 
Too late now but personally I would use ELV ( 12 volt DC ) sensors.

Each lamp ( or group of lamps ) would have a control relay switching the Live to the lamp(s)

Each of the 12 V DC relays coils would be connected via diodes to one or more of the switched 12 V outputs from the sensors to determine which lamp(s) are controlled by which sensor(s).

Many 230 V sensors with relay outputs can be converted to ELV operation by removing the 230 Volt to ELV circuit in the sensor.
If you do this conversion then indelible mark the sensor(s) as being ELV and not 230 V
I suggested this early doors but with 24v instead- another advantage is you can reconfigure what does what at the panel rather than trudging round JBs. But given the OP has suitable multicore kicking around it'll do the job
 
Too late now but personally I would use ELV ( 12 volt DC ) sensors.

Each lamp ( or group of lamps ) would have a control relay switching the Live to the lamp(s)

Each of the 12 V DC relays coils would be connected via diodes to one or more of the switched 12 V outputs from the sensors to determine which lamp(s) are controlled by which sensor(s).

Many 230 V sensors with relay outputs can be converted to ELV operation by removing the 230 Volt to ELV circuit in the sensor.
If you do this conversion then indelible mark the sensor(s) as being ELV and not 230 V
I don't think it's too late, as this still seems to be in the discussion stage.

I would not advocate modifying 8 sensors, I see no advantage to doing so other than using thin cable. That said I have done it and quite coincidentally have one sitting here on the table beside me. It is to be used for a camping event with a pair of 12V floods on a tripod running on a car battery.
Whichever way it's installed there will be 8 relays and the cost difference between different types is fairly small.
I believe OP is more aware of multiple relay contacts switching a light rather than usng an additional power supply and diodes.
 

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