My Vokera Excell 80SP's Weekend
- Thread starter rednaxela
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ChrisR said:
I agree.
Its usually where the venturi tapers in that the crust builds up.
To get to that bit it has to come out.
Alex...Are you sure that you know which is the boiler flow switch.
ahh, I think i've been looking at the DHW Microswitch...
I've re studied the diagram and can now see that it is at the bottom.
I must admit, I've never noticed it in operation.
I will check out the connections and operation.
thanks John.
PS, water still ok since yesterday.. Mrs very happy...
I've re studied the diagram and can now see that it is at the bottom.
I must admit, I've never noticed it in operation.
I will check out the connections and operation.
thanks John.
PS, water still ok since yesterday.. Mrs very happy...
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alex wrote:
Thats all that matters in life.
Thats all that matters in life.
It works backwards to other boilers so is difficult for experienced gas engineers to remember sometimes.
When it retracts it puts the fan into slow run mode.
Sometimes the spindle gets dirty and does not fully retract. The spindle may need removing, completely cleaning, drying and lubricating with silicone grease and probably a new gland.
Tony Glazier
When it retracts it puts the fan into slow run mode.
Sometimes the spindle gets dirty and does not fully retract. The spindle may need removing, completely cleaning, drying and lubricating with silicone grease and probably a new gland.
Tony Glazier
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Agile said:
Absolutely.
Once saw an Engineer (or thats what he thought he was) plastering the push rod with gas tap grease and then start yanking it in and out with a large pair of pliers.
I despair at what i see sometimes
A bit like some of my customers who turn off their rad valves with a pair of pliers. Scuff the spindles so much they rip the gland seal to shreds - then they wonder why they leak when they turn them back on. Spent a morning changing all the valves the other day.
Almost as good as the customers who try removing the rad/valve connections without supporting the valves. Went to one place - he'd kinked the pipe tails on three rads before he phoned me in a panic (when he sheared one off).
Spent a morning changing all the valves the other day. Almost as good as the customers who try removing the rad/valve connections without supporting the valves. Went to one place - he'd kinked the pipe tails on three rads before he phoned me in a panic (when he sheared one off).
I always worry about getting the correct lubrication. I didn't do anything to the fan bearings just in case. I guess if you get it wrong, it can attract muck and end up clogging what ever you are trying to protect.
I do have some high/low temperature silicone grease. its consistency is much like tooth paste. I also have some 3 in 1 oil.
Does the silicone you are talking about have this sort of texture? Or would I need something else?
Alex.
I do have some high/low temperature silicone grease. its consistency is much like tooth paste. I also have some 3 in 1 oil.
Does the silicone you are talking about have this sort of texture? Or would I need something else?
Alex.
Hello.
I have carried out some timing.
The Fulcrum arm rod came out in about 4 seconds, and took about the same time to go back.
The newly discovered (sorry about that), flow switch popped out quite quickly.
On the way back, took a couple of seconds.
One observation was that on the way back, it paused for a fraction of a second about 1/4 of the way back, then carried on.
If it had got stuck 1/4 of the way back, could this cause the slow fan not to come back on?
The fault has not been happening this week, but if it does, I will have a look.
Regarding the lubrication of this part, it looks a bit buried in the workings for me to be confident in carrying out any significant work.
Would there be any benefit in turning the electric off, then applying a little silicone grease to the visible shaft when the water is on, ie the rod is out?
I owe you all a drink (and more), its been a good week.
Alex
I have carried out some timing.
The Fulcrum arm rod came out in about 4 seconds, and took about the same time to go back.
The newly discovered (sorry about that), flow switch popped out quite quickly.
On the way back, took a couple of seconds.
One observation was that on the way back, it paused for a fraction of a second about 1/4 of the way back, then carried on.
If it had got stuck 1/4 of the way back, could this cause the slow fan not to come back on?
The fault has not been happening this week, but if it does, I will have a look.
Regarding the lubrication of this part, it looks a bit buried in the workings for me to be confident in carrying out any significant work.
Would there be any benefit in turning the electric off, then applying a little silicone grease to the visible shaft when the water is on, ie the rod is out?
I owe you all a drink (and more), its been a good week.
Alex
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alex wrote:
Yes (the switch could be faulty also)
If you turn the power off it will just retract.
If you can get some silicon grease on it that would help.
However you would be just putting off the inevitable really.
My advice is try and find someone who is clued up on vokera excell's
who will be able to give it a proper service (new diaphragms etc)
Yes (the switch could be faulty also)
If you turn the power off it will just retract.
If you can get some silicon grease on it that would help.
However you would be just putting off the inevitable really.
My advice is try and find someone who is clued up on vokera excell's
who will be able to give it a proper service (new diaphragms etc)
I have a similar problem by the sounds of it with my Vokera Excell.
Symptoms: water doesn't heat in either the DHW or the radiators and when it does, it switches off after a short period of time.
I have noted that the fan doesn't run at all when there is now draw from the hot water.
When you turn on the hotwater the DHW and the boiler flowswitch trigger, the fan start son low speed, but the pressure switch doesn't trigger. If I remove the pipe and blow lightly into it, the how water kicks in.
Does this sound like the Venturi needs cleaning or a problem with the Pressure Switch?
Should the fan me on continually at low speed when the main switch is in either summer or radiator mode?
I have had two plumbers out to look at this, and talked about replacing parts to see what the problems are.
Any ideas? Don't mean to crash the thread but thought the problems i am having are similar to this thread and might help.
Thanks guys / and girls.
David
Symptoms: water doesn't heat in either the DHW or the radiators and when it does, it switches off after a short period of time.
I have noted that the fan doesn't run at all when there is now draw from the hot water.
When you turn on the hotwater the DHW and the boiler flowswitch trigger, the fan start son low speed, but the pressure switch doesn't trigger. If I remove the pipe and blow lightly into it, the how water kicks in.
Does this sound like the Venturi needs cleaning or a problem with the Pressure Switch?
Should the fan me on continually at low speed when the main switch is in either summer or radiator mode?
I have had two plumbers out to look at this, and talked about replacing parts to see what the problems are.
Any ideas? Don't mean to crash the thread but thought the problems i am having are similar to this thread and might help.
Thanks guys / and girls.
David
I think the OP is still writing as if he is confusing the operation of the DHW flow switch and the operation of the system flow switch.
His interpretation is not aided by the manufacturers instructions which will be very confusing because they refer to both a a flow switch and the drivers as diferential pressure units.
Its the system flow switch which switches the fan from low to high speed and its this one which needs to go in and out promptly. Its this one which might need cleaning and lubricating.
The DHW flowswitch is always a little slow but taking 4 seconds seems much too long and I would expect the diaphragm is in poor condition.
Tony Glazier
His interpretation is not aided by the manufacturers instructions which will be very confusing because they refer to both a a flow switch and the drivers as diferential pressure units.
Its the system flow switch which switches the fan from low to high speed and its this one which needs to go in and out promptly. Its this one which might need cleaning and lubricating.
The DHW flowswitch is always a little slow but taking 4 seconds seems much too long and I would expect the diaphragm is in poor condition.
Tony Glazier
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vodester...i would also suspect that you have the same problems as alex.
Get yourself a corgi registered "boiler engineer" to do the work for you.
1, Clean fan venturi.
2, Check slow fan resistor
3, Check boiler flow switch
Get yourself a corgi registered "boiler engineer" to do the work for you.
1, Clean fan venturi.
2, Check slow fan resistor
3, Check boiler flow switch
Hi Guys,
All has been well with the boiler fan since I applied a little grease to the flow switch.
We are now running a mixer tap from the boiler as the electric shower has now been removed.
During full water output with the stat turned to a quarter, the output temperature for a shower is lovely without having to add any cold. However, when the flame modulates from High to Low about once a minute, you do get a little cooling of the water.
Just before the boiler modulates to low flame, you can hear a noise a little like a kettle when it starts up.
Do you think this is normal operation? My plumber guy is still convinced I need to repalce the DHW Heat Exchanger.
again, thanks in advance for all of your time.
Alex.
All has been well with the boiler fan since I applied a little grease to the flow switch.
We are now running a mixer tap from the boiler as the electric shower has now been removed.
During full water output with the stat turned to a quarter, the output temperature for a shower is lovely without having to add any cold. However, when the flame modulates from High to Low about once a minute, you do get a little cooling of the water.
Just before the boiler modulates to low flame, you can hear a noise a little like a kettle when it starts up.
Do you think this is normal operation? My plumber guy is still convinced I need to repalce the DHW Heat Exchanger.
again, thanks in advance for all of your time.
Alex.
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