neaten sockets & fcus in kitchen

[kevsterdiy]

Hi, I've started a new thread to separate this from my previous cooker related questions.

In regard to tidying the cooker ignition and the extractor can I have your opinions of these two options or other options please?

Option 1 is to spur off the ring socket (1) to a switched FCU (2) from this on the LOAD (max 13 amps onwards) it would give switched control of an unswitched 1 gang socket (3) for cooker spark and another (or flex outlet) (4) for extractor. Extractor has it's own integral switches.

This way would keep it neater, but one switch on item (1) for all isolation

View media item 66669
Option 2 is to spur of the ring socket (1) to a UNswitched FCU (2), from the LOAD (13 amps max onwards) wire in a switched FCU (3) to go to the 1 gang unswitched socket (4) for cooker spark (3 amp fuse max for this) , radially wire in (from 3’s SUPPLY) a switched FCU (5) to go to 1 gang unswitched socket (or flex outlet) for extractor (again 3 amps fuse max).

This option gives full isolation switching, but looks more messy and starts to get close to the gas cooker rings (approx 250 between item 5 and gas rings)

View media item 66670
Or of course a better idea, some of the above etc.

Thanks for helping.

 

[flameport]

Put a dual box behind the oven, and either fit 2 single sockets, or 1 socket and an outlet plate.
The socket is for the hob ignition, the other socket or outlet is for the oven (depending on what rating the oven is).

For the extractor, put a single socket on the wall near the ceiling, which will be covered by the cowl of the extractor when fitted. No need to have a separate isolator.
If more convenient, the extractor could be connected to the lighting circuit.

 

[kevsterdiy]

Put a dual box behind the oven, and either fit 2 single sockets, or 1 socket and an outlet plate.
The socket is for the hob ignition, the other socket or outlet is for the oven (depending on what rating the oven is).

For the extractor, put a single socket on the wall near the ceiling, which will be covered by the cowl of the extractor when fitted. No need to have a separate isolator.
If more convenient, the extractor could be connected to the lighting circuit.

Hi, the red lines/route is the main cooker 6mm cable circuit which has a standard outlet plate, are you implying fit a double box to this? Sorry not quite following...

if you could kindly explain to me?

I'd like to keep the cooker outlet plate usable for if I ever have a full electric cooker.

Probably out of choice I'd still keep a SFCU for the extractor.

 

[ban-all-sheds]

I can't see any benefits in #2 vs #1.

Use the cooker outlet plate to supply a socket into which you plug the ignition.

 

[kevsterdiy]

I can't see any benefits in #2 vs #1.

Use the cooker outlet plate to supply a socket into which you plug the ignition.

Thanks.

Just one final thing to clarify the cable between the cooker outlet plate (supplied by 6mm cable at 32amps) and socket will be ok in either 2.5 or 1.5 cable?

I believe the socket terminal won't take any more than 4mm cable. The cooker '13 amp' plug has a 3 amp fuse.

 

[ban-all-sheds]

I believe the socket terminal won't take any more than 4mm cable.

Use 4mm² then.