Nope, if Nest can't get a wireless link with the Heat Link it'll still work, but with reduced functionality - it doesn't receive software updates or weather reports, but can still be controlled through the app and still switches the heating on and off
Nest install seems okay but not convinced it's working!
- Thread starter sparkymark75
- Start date
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Nowt like rtfm.
12v connection or proprietary wireless connection between Heatlink and thermostat.
2.4ghz WiFi connection from thermostat to router for software update and remote operation.
12v connection or proprietary wireless connection between Heatlink and thermostat.
2.4ghz WiFi connection from thermostat to router for software update and remote operation.
Hope you get it sorted
The builders are already making noises that "I'm on my own" because I've installed Nest. The site manager phoned me after the plumber had been, going on about me changing the thermostats, checking the zones are wired correctly etc. The plumber said he would come back at 8 tomorrow morning. Lets see if he does. I'm now convinced if there is an issue, it's a plumbing one, nothing to do with the Nest.
Zone 2 appears to be working. The radiators get hot (albeit slowly). Zone 1, some of the radiators start to get warm, others stay cold. Could it be the system just needs balanced? Or is it just slow to heat up the radiators and I need to leave it longer?
H
Hot&Cold
Can you rapidly remove your alterations,put it back to as it was.
Then,
Pop down the cash point get a few readies,beer money for the plumber get him/her on your side so their report will say something like "we gave advice and tested the system no faults found"
Then come back here for a talk through for installing bird boxes.
Then,
Pop down the cash point get a few readies,beer money for the plumber get him/her on your side so their report will say something like "we gave advice and tested the system no faults found"
Then come back here for a talk through for installing bird boxes.
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So to my surprise, the plumbers did turn up. They're saying it's an issue with the Nest setup. The boiler fires up but the flame icon goes away after about 10 seconds and the water temp falls.
Any ideas what this could be?
Any ideas what this could be?
Has anybody actually found out whether one or bothzone valves are opening?
Unless they are, nothing will work.
Unless they are, nothing will work.
The plumbers said they were working. Water was flowing. But the boiler was cutting out after a few seconds.
Then someone needs to investigate why.
Has anyone fiddled with iso valves on boiler?, I've seen that a few times.
That doesn't mean anything.
If the system is wired correctly, the operation should be;
a. Nest or whatever thermostat you have connects power to the valve motor
b. valve opens so that water can flow
c. when valve fully open, a switch in the valve activates the boiler/pump.
d. when power is removed, a spring in the valve causes it to close and the switch in the valve opens so the boiler/pump stops.
It's entirely possible for valves to open and the switch to not work, or only work sometimes, or the switch to fail closed, or even to open and then close if the motor/spring assembly in the valve is defective. Valves can also jam open, closed or partially open. Sometimes intermittently. The possibilities are endless.
That also assumes the system was wired properly in the first place, which is by no means certain.
Ultimately any of these problems and any others can easily be identified by checking for voltage at the various terminals in the wiring centre. Randomly guessing and making changes will not solve anything.
The boilers not been touched, just the wiring in the junction box. I'm tempted to put it all back and see if it works. But then they'll claim putting the Nest in in the first place "broke it"!
This just demonstrates how important it is to see if everything is working properly before making any changes!
Then to remove any additions before asking for repairs!
Sounds like it just needs balancing properly. You can see the FAQ here!
Then to remove any additions before asking for repairs!
Sounds like it just needs balancing properly. You can see the FAQ here!
Lesson learnt on that front. Too late for me sadly. I've got an electrician that specialises in Nest installs coming out in the next couple of days. If he confirms the wiring is okay, then I guess it's a battle with the plumbers to convince them it's a plumbing issue.
All of the wires involved are contained within a junction box below the boiler. He shouldn't have to open the boiler to change anything. I certainly didn't.
Not managed to get the electrician out yet.
In the meantime, I tried taking the Nest out of the equation by turning the heating off on the Nest and then removing it from it's base. I then put the zone valve into manual and the boiler reacted the same way as it does if I call for heat via the Nest. It basically fires up, gets the water up to the temperature I've set on the boiler. Once it reaches that temp, the flame icon goes out but the radiator icon remains. The temperature indicator slowly drops until its in the 40s and then the boiler ignites again to put the temperature back up again.
Maybe this is just how modern boilers work? (My last house had a 20 year old Worcester Bosch combi which just ran until you turned it off or you melted with the heat! Very reliable boiler though)
I also spent most of this afternoon trying to balance the radiators in zone 1 (most of the house). Most of the radiators just had the LSV full open and the TRVs set to the maximum of 5.
Oh and someone mentioned the automatic bypass valve earlier. It's one of those one's where the setting is revealed as you open it. So the only value I can see on it currently looks to be 0.5 bar
In the meantime, I tried taking the Nest out of the equation by turning the heating off on the Nest and then removing it from it's base. I then put the zone valve into manual and the boiler reacted the same way as it does if I call for heat via the Nest. It basically fires up, gets the water up to the temperature I've set on the boiler. Once it reaches that temp, the flame icon goes out but the radiator icon remains. The temperature indicator slowly drops until its in the 40s and then the boiler ignites again to put the temperature back up again.
Maybe this is just how modern boilers work? (My last house had a 20 year old Worcester Bosch combi which just ran until you turned it off or you melted with the heat! Very reliable boiler though)
I also spent most of this afternoon trying to balance the radiators in zone 1 (most of the house). Most of the radiators just had the LSV full open and the TRVs set to the maximum of 5.
Oh and someone mentioned the automatic bypass valve earlier. It's one of those one's where the setting is revealed as you open it. So the only value I can see on it currently looks to be 0.5 bar
Last edited:
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