Neutral wire to Futureproof?

[Steve335]

Hi

I’m having building work done at the moment and will be having the first fix done next week.

Would it be reasonable to ask them to pull some neutrals in, leave them disconnected? Or connected if necessary?

I’d it can be done is it likely to incite significamt extra cost?

I would eventually like a couple of smart switches you see...and everything I’ve read suggests a neutral is required.

Also is there anything else I could ask them to do that might be required for emerging technology?

Thanks in advance

 

[Iggifer]

Just ask them to loop at the switch rather than to the light fitting. It’s a common way of wiring now - we always do it that way unless it’s a rewire and the customer wants to minimise mess

 

[Steve335]

Thanks - ‘looping’ provides the neutral then I assume? Sorry I’m not familiar with the terms.

 

[John D v2.0]

Yes the loop is where the main live and neutral throughout the whole circuit are daisy chained. Traditionally it was via the ceiling light as they needs both, but it's doable by the switch as well.

 

[Steve335]

Thanks both. I’m assuming this should incur minimal cost if anything at all?

 

[John D v2.0]

A bit of extra cable and a few more clips but nothing significant

 

[yorkspark]

or ask for the switch drops to be 3c+e to bring a neutral down

 

[Lectrician]

Just explain you may be fitting said switches.

 

[mwatsonxx]

And make sure they use 25mm deep switch boxes, rather than the standard 16mm.

 

[ban-all-sheds]

If the walls will take it, specify 47mm ones.

Extra cost of removing a bit more wall at the time is peanuts, and it's better to have too much space than too little.

 

[Taylortwocities]

And make sure they use 25mm deep switch boxes, rather than the standard 16mm.

I dont think 16mm boxes are fited much these days. 25mm is the norm. Ask them to fit 32mm boxes if they are metal back boxes.. Drywall boxes are deeper as standard..

These diagrams will show you the diference between loop in at the light and loop in at the switch
https://www.diynot.com/wiki/Electrics:Single-way-lighting

 

[EFLImpudence]

Has anyone ever noticed 559.5.1.208?

I just happened to notice it.
You mean you haven't read it all?

 

[securespark]

?

 

[JohnW2]

Has anyone ever noticed 559.5.1.208?

I must confess that, like you, I hadn't.

"Giving consideration" to having a neutral at switches seems to be what the OP is doing, so maybe he did read it

However, if the result of that consideration is a decision to have a neutral at light switches, I'm not sure that 'looping at the switch' is necessarily the best way to go. Whilst it facilitates electronic switches etc., it means that there is no permanent live at the rose/light, so someone wanting to extend the lighting circuit from there would not have an easy job.

The 'best of both worlds' would seem to be (as has been suggested), to loop at the rose/light and run 3C+E to the switches - or, alternatively, loop at the switches and run a 3C+E to each rose/light.

Kind Regards, John

 

[Iggifer]

The 'best of both worlds' would seem to be (as has been suggested), to loop at the rose/light and run 3C+E to the switches - or, alternatively, loop at the switches and run a 3C+E to each rose/light

That's fine with pendants but if you use this method you end up with JBs under the floor. It's never all that difficult to find a pL+N for a lighting circuit in the floor - which you'd almost certainly have to take up if you were extending the lighting circuit.