New lead over old + flashband?
- Thread starter cyberbub
- Start date
-
- Tags
- flashing lead flashing
Sponsored Links
Sponsored Links
Thanks guys.
Woody, good point that the 'total' protection from two layers of lead will be a lot higher! But if the new top layer is 'code 3', will that not mean that it's more likely to crack and deteriorate sooner?
I've now got *another* problem with the same job! Several slate tiles were replaced on the same roof as they had cracked over the years (or maybe from windowcleaners walking on them etc!). But today, 2 days after installation, the new slates have started showing signs of damage on their surfaces - most are rough and flaky, with a thin top layer coming off on one slate. The older slates are fine. Is this a sign of poor quality slates, or second-hand rejects, or have the builders damaged them in some way? FFS it's a nightmare.
Woody, good point that the 'total' protection from two layers of lead will be a lot higher! But if the new top layer is 'code 3', will that not mean that it's more likely to crack and deteriorate sooner?
I've now got *another* problem with the same job! Several slate tiles were replaced on the same roof as they had cracked over the years (or maybe from windowcleaners walking on them etc!). But today, 2 days after installation, the new slates have started showing signs of damage on their surfaces - most are rough and flaky, with a thin top layer coming off on one slate. The older slates are fine. Is this a sign of poor quality slates, or second-hand rejects, or have the builders damaged them in some way? FFS it's a nightmare.
Last edited:
I can't imagine for one moment that any new slate would start to shale after two days!. Could it just be loose flakes/debris from the transport or storage?
Whilst Datarebel's comment regarding paying for it to be done right should mean that it is done right is strictly correct, that only leaves you one option (assuming you did pay for it to be done right) - get the bloke back to rip the lot out and have it redone not only right, but with the expected quality and finish. Are you going to do that?
If not then, it comes down to what is acceptable. That job is going to last many years even if it is code 3. And if it does start to split, there is the flashband beneath as a backup, and if that starts to spilt there are the slates and any membrane, so even in worst case of split lead and flashband, that does not mean the roof will actually leak.
There is no way to tell what will happen in the future, so I would suggest that if you are not prepared to get the work rectified by the same person, best to chalk it up to experience and move on and see what happens in years to come. At least if there is a next time, now you know what needs to be done.
My standard tip of the day, is for any work on the house you tell the person what you want and specify the standards you require. Whilst you may entertain opinion or advice, do not just let the person do what they want to do unless you trust them.
Whilst Datarebel's comment regarding paying for it to be done right should mean that it is done right is strictly correct, that only leaves you one option (assuming you did pay for it to be done right) - get the bloke back to rip the lot out and have it redone not only right, but with the expected quality and finish. Are you going to do that?
If not then, it comes down to what is acceptable. That job is going to last many years even if it is code 3. And if it does start to split, there is the flashband beneath as a backup, and if that starts to spilt there are the slates and any membrane, so even in worst case of split lead and flashband, that does not mean the roof will actually leak.
There is no way to tell what will happen in the future, so I would suggest that if you are not prepared to get the work rectified by the same person, best to chalk it up to experience and move on and see what happens in years to come. At least if there is a next time, now you know what needs to be done.
My standard tip of the day, is for any work on the house you tell the person what you want and specify the standards you require. Whilst you may entertain opinion or advice, do not just let the person do what they want to do unless you trust them.
Datarebal, see attached photo of some of the newly-installed slates.
Woody, that's good advice of course, but depends on me having the technical knowledge of lead codes, flashing installation techniques, and slate roofing, to be able to spec the job beforehand, or to challenge them afterwards. Most people (including me) don't have that knowledge - which is why we have to trust tradesmen, check reviews on them etc beforehand (which I did). I have learned more (quickly!) after the job was done - perhaps I should have done that research earlier!
Anyway I asked them again about the lead code (open question "Remind me what lead code it is?") and they immediately said code 4, so if there's no foolproof way to verify after installation, there's not much more I can do. If there's no way of telling, lead manufacturers should imprint a small code number every 90cm along the lead, to ensure that there will always be one number on every sheet, since the minimum sheet length is 1m.
I asked about the flaky tiles, they said that they were reclaimed Welsh tiles to match the colour of the existing old tiles, or else they would look odd, and that older tiles do have a level of flakiness but it was only minor and wouldn't affect the weatherproofing.
They said they'd cut the old lead out of the gap between the bricks (but left the rest of the sheet in place), and installed the new lead sheet into the gap to a 35mm depth using clips, and mortared it in place.
So I'm going to leave it, as it all seems "probably" OK - but chalk one up to knowledge and experience.
Thanks again for your help!
Woody, that's good advice of course, but depends on me having the technical knowledge of lead codes, flashing installation techniques, and slate roofing, to be able to spec the job beforehand, or to challenge them afterwards. Most people (including me) don't have that knowledge - which is why we have to trust tradesmen, check reviews on them etc beforehand (which I did). I have learned more (quickly!) after the job was done - perhaps I should have done that research earlier!
Anyway I asked them again about the lead code (open question "Remind me what lead code it is?") and they immediately said code 4, so if there's no foolproof way to verify after installation, there's not much more I can do. If there's no way of telling, lead manufacturers should imprint a small code number every 90cm along the lead, to ensure that there will always be one number on every sheet, since the minimum sheet length is 1m.
I asked about the flaky tiles, they said that they were reclaimed Welsh tiles to match the colour of the existing old tiles, or else they would look odd, and that older tiles do have a level of flakiness but it was only minor and wouldn't affect the weatherproofing.
They said they'd cut the old lead out of the gap between the bricks (but left the rest of the sheet in place), and installed the new lead sheet into the gap to a 35mm depth using clips, and mortared it in place.
So I'm going to leave it, as it all seems "probably" OK - but chalk one up to knowledge and experience.
Thanks again for your help!
Attachments
DIYnot Local
Staff member
If you need to find a tradesperson to get your job done, please try our local search below, or if you are doing it yourself you can find suppliers local to you.
Select the supplier or trade you require, enter your location to begin your search.
Are you a trade or supplier? You can create your listing free at DIYnot Local
Sponsored Links
