New Oven Install (Cable, switch, connection) (Ed.)

[Anon]

We have bought a replacement built under oven Kenwood KBUDOX21. One online site says it is "plug and play" install, others that it needs hard wiring to a dedicated cooker circuit/switch.

We have a red switch in the kitchen (pictured) and a separate circuit breaker on the consumer unit.

I have looked behind the existing oven (Whirlpool AKG668) and it is plugged in with a plug (thick wire) into a normal double socket, with the socket linked to the red switch above the counter.

My question is, can I simply switch the wire from the back of the existing oven to the new (power off/unplugged!), or does the socket/wiring need to be replaced? The double socket also has a plug to the extractor fan.

Thank you

 

[flameport]

That is a double oven, so will need to be wired in . It cannot be connected to a 13A socket.

The most likely solution is to have the double socket replaced with an FCU for the extractor and a single connection plate for the new oven.

 

[Anon]

That is a double oven, so will need to be wired in . It cannot be connected to a 13A socket.

The most likely solution is to have the double socket replaced with an FCU for the extractor and a single connection plate for the new oven.

Thank you. It sounds like the existing oven shouldn't have been wired in this way either, though no doubt regulations have changed since it was fitted. We have been here over a decade and never had reason to pull the oven out to know how it was wired in .

Would replacing the double socket with one of these do the job to use most of the existing set up, or do I just accept I will need an electrician?

45A Cooker Socket Control Unit with Neon - Red Rocker​

45A Cooker Socket Control Unit with Neon - Red Rocker | Knightsbridge (SN8333N)

Thank you

 

[Anon]

Thank you. It sounds like the existing oven shouldn't have been wired in this way either, though no doubt regulations have changed since it was fitted. We have been here over a decade and never had reason to pull the oven out to know how it was wired in .

Would replacing the double socket with one of these do the job to use most of the existing set up, or do I just accept I will need an electrician?

45A Cooker Socket Control Unit with Neon - Red Rocker​

45A Cooker Socket Control Unit with Neon - Red Rocker | Knightsbridge (SN8333N)

Thank you

Can anyone advise on this please? Is it safe to switch a normal double socket for this and wire in a double oven? As mentioned the double socket is already connected to a 45A cooker switch shown in the photo and on a dedicated fuse in the consumer unit.

Thank you

 

[EFLImpudence]

The most likely solution is to have the double socket replaced with an FCU for the extractor and a single connection plate for the new oven.

Or single socket instead of FCU.

It would appear you need an electrician anyway.

 

[opps]

Or single socket instead of FCU.

It would appear you need an electrician anyway.

It is a 4Kw oven.

I suspect that the sites which say "plug and play" simply mean that the supplied flex plugs into the back of the oven, rather than being hardwired.

 

[EFLImpudence]

It is a 4Kw oven.

No - socket instead of FCU for hood - cooker outlet for oven.

 

[Anon]

No - socket instead of FCU for hood - cooker outlet for oven.

Sorry for the delayed reply, oven is still sat in its packaging - could I safely replace the existing 13A double socket myself with one of these which seems to be new to the market?

Stanic Duo Dual Cooker Connection Unit 45A with 13A Socket

WE WONT BE BEATEN ON PRICEWe regularly check our prices against our competitors, to ensure we can offer you the best deal possible.

www.electricpoint.com

As mentioned, the socket (with gas hob ignition, not extractor as I originally thought, plugged in to one socket, double oven plugged in to the other behind the oven). Red Isolator switch is above the counter.

Further details about this Stanic Duo is here: https://www.electricpoint.com/blog/what-is-the-stanic-duo-dual-cooker-connection-unit

Thank you

 

[JohnD]

We have a red switch in the kitchen (pictured) and a separate circuit breaker on the consumer unit.

What is the rating of this circuit breaker?

(Or, show a pic of it so the markings can be read)

 

[blup]

We have bought a replacement built under oven Kenwood KBUDOX21. One online site says it is "plug and play" install, others that it needs hard wiring to a dedicated cooker circuit/switch.

We have a red switch in the kitchen (pictured) and a separate circuit breaker on the consumer unit.

I have looked behind the existing oven (Whirlpool AKG668) and it is plugged in with a plug (thick wire) into a normal double socket, with the socket linked to the red switch above the counter.

My question is, can I simply switch the wire from the back of the existing oven to the new (power off/unplugged!), or does the socket/wiring need to be replaced? The double socket also has a plug to the extractor fan.

Thank you

The spec for your old (plugged in) oven suggests a higher rating than the new one, both are double ovens and best practice is hard wire them. Get an electrician in.

 

[opps]

Sorry for the delayed reply, oven is still sat in its packaging - could I safely replace the existing 13A double socket myself with one of these which seems to be new to the market?

Stanic Duo Dual Cooker Connection Unit 45A with 13A Socket

WE WONT BE BEATEN ON PRICEWe regularly check our prices against our competitors, to ensure we can offer you the best deal possible.

www.electricpoint.com

As mentioned, the socket (with gas hob ignition, not extractor as I originally thought, plugged in to one socket, double oven plugged in to the other behind the oven). Red Isolator switch is above the counter.

Further details about this Stanic Duo is here: https://www.electricpoint.com/blog/what-is-the-stanic-duo-dual-cooker-connection-unit

Thank you

Wouldn't your previous double socket have been rated at 32 amps (ie 2 lots of 2.5mm twin and earth)?

 

[JohnD]

Wouldn't your previous double socket have been rated at 32 amps (ie 2 lots of 2.5mm twin and earth)?

It doesn't work like that. You're probably thinking of a socket on a ring. Double sockets are usually rated to about 20A (one large appliance and one small) and are frequently damaged by heat when a washing machine and a tumble drier are in the same double socket. The circuit, supplying multiple sockets, but not a cooker, usually has a 32A MCB

A cooker outlet is usually on a radial circuit, one cable one switch, and mostly on a 32A circuit

Sockets, especially in a kitchen, can also be put on a radial circuit and this is getting more popular.

 

[Anon]

What is the rating of this circuit breaker?

(Or, show a pic of it so the markings can be read)

Thank you - the photo of the circuit breaker on the fuse box is below.

 

[Anon]

Wouldn't your previous double socket have been rated at 32 amps (ie 2 lots of 2.5mm twin and earth)?

I will have to check, but the double socket behind the oven is connected to the cooker isolator above the counter and linked to a specific switch on the fuse box.

 

[JohnD]

.