New system, how's it looking?

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A friend of mine is fitting me a full new system including underfloor heating, I know nothing about plumbing does is look a good install?

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Where is the pressure reducing valve (control group) for the cylinder (is your friend G3 certificated)
 
You sure this is not at a training centre and you are just showing off your latest pipework?

Why all the soldered fittings? Why not use pulled bends?
 
Just seen second pic, ufh circuit looks like a potential air-lock - unless my eyes are just not good enough to see the air vents.
 
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Where is the pressure reducing valve (control group) for the cylinder (is your friend G3 certificated)

I'm sure this is on the first picture on the top left, he said this was to reduce the cold water pressure.


You sure this is not at a training centre and you are just showing off your latest pipework?
Why all the soldered fittings? Why not use pulled bends?
Erm no.
I don't know why he's done it this way.

Just seen second pic, ufh circuit looks like a potential air-lock - unless my eyes are just not good enough to see the air vents.
I don't think there are any air vents, should this have come with all my underfloor heating stuff?
 
Looks a fine installation to me! the PRV control group is above the boiler in the first pic, no problem with that,

as for the underfloor manifold there is a manual; air vent on the end of the top manifold so no air problem there either,

I would be happy to maintain this system remember to lag the pipes in the boilerhouse when its all completed and tested :D
 
Looks a fine installation to me! the PRV control group is above the boiler in the first pic, no problem with that,

as for the underfloor manifold there is a manual; air vent on the end of the top manifold so no air problem there either,

I would be happy to maintain this system remember to lag the pipes in the boilerhouse when its all completed and tested :D

I'm pleased everything seems ok :) I'll make sure everything is lagged.
 
looks spot on. Obviously i could do better!!!! :LOL: .. just can't see a bypass might be behind the cylinder. but good job that man

Nath
 
OK, I missed the control group above the boiler :oops:

I would still have put bleed points on the ufh circuit, above the door.
 
Its better to use hydra-zorb clips for a copper pipe installation IMO mounted unto unistrut......
Especially a plant room type installation.

Its gives a much better clearance for insulation and is more professional looking overall.
Not many plumbers know about them as they are used by the fridge men and few plumbing suppliers stock them. Sizes are imperial but are compatible with any metric pipe size.
Lack of the use of a bender in your installation makes it amatuerish imho.
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It looks good. It's nice when you have so much open space to play around with. It looks like he has 2 heating zones, apart from the ufh and hot water, so I can only assume it is a rather large house. So the only thing I would differently is to have a low loss header.
 
Filling loop doesn't comply with water regs...fit the check valve on the cold main side.

Need some manual air vents above the door loops.

Additional expansion vessel probably required with the high water content of the U/F heating.

Why not a Honeywell zone valve for the U/F heating. Looks like a Sunvic/Danfoss valve....the spindle oftens siezes or the O ring leaks.

Good idea to fit pressure gauges either side of the PRV...you can easily tell if the PRV needs calibrating or the strainer is starting to block etc.
 

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