New tiles, should I render or dot and dab walls?

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Hello ppl and Merry xmas!

I have a couple of tilers/plumbers in who are going to be giving me a new bathroom.

I wanted to ask a few questions regarding this.

Firstly the old tiles that are removed are going to leave the walls uneven, they want to use aquapanel around the wet areas i.e bath sink and use standard 12mm plasterboard for the rest. Can I use 9mm? I was more inclined towards rendering the walls, with a cement mix around the wet areas. Is it better to drywall it all or should I tell them to render? They are also going to be dot and dabbing the boards to the walls.

The second issue is that the floor currently has floorboards, I am going to install underfloor heating cables and they are saying to board over the floorboards with WBP ply but as thin as possible, I was inclined to use maybe 12mm or is it ok to use say 6mm?

There is also lead within the bathroom, I am going to remove the lead for the water feeds but leave the lead of the water drain pipe, should I remove it all creating more work or leave it?

Also any recommendations on adhesives for tiles? or grouts?

Thank you very much for your time
 
I don't see the real advantage of using Aqua-Panel unless this is a wet room, rather than a bathroom.
The simplest method would be to repair any damage made to plaster on removing tiles, providing the existing plaster is in could condition. The walls want to be finished so the surface is flat and level.
Use at least 12mm ply 18mm if you can. The problem will be that your floor level will greatly increase with the addition of ply, UFH, adhesive and tiles.
Lead on the waste pipes is not going be a great health issue but I would remove the lead from any cold water supplies that may be drank from or used for brushing teeth/rinsing out mouth.

You will find BAL adhesives are as good as you are going to get.
For the walls you want to use a waterproof ready mix (BAL Grip) and the floors a powered rapid set.
For grout in wet area I would use an anti-bacterial grout like micro-flex.
This is my personal opinion and others may suggest differently.
 
Not sure i see the point in aqua panel around bath or sink, i can understand a shower but not a bath.
If you can remove floor baords and use 18mm wbp ply.
Re plaster rather than dot and dab, personally i don't like dot and dab.
 
Firstly the old tiles that are removed are going to leave the walls uneven, they want to use aquapanel around the wet areas i.e bath sink and use standard 12mm plasterboard for the rest.
Always use waterproof backer board in wet areas but Moisture Resistant plaster board if fine elsewhere.

Can I use 9mm?
No; use 12mm for walls or the tiles may fail & don’t just rely on dot & dab adhesive if your going to tile, also use mechanical fixings or, depending on the weight of your tiles, the whole lot could end up on the floor.

I was more inclined towards rendering the walls, with a cement mix around the wet areas. Is it better to drywall it all or should I tell them to render?
You can render but it must be dry before you tile (up to 28 days depending on thickness); use a quickset render or Rapidset powder adhesive to level off. Don’t use plaster

They are also going to be dot and dabbing the boards to the walls.
As above, don’t just rely on dot & dab if tiling over or the whole lot could end up on the floor.

The second issue is that the floor currently has floorboards, I am going to install underfloor heating cables and they are saying to board over the floorboards with WBP ply but as thin as possible, I was inclined to use maybe 12mm or is it ok to use say 6mm?
12mm WBP is the minimum you should use for over boarding - BS & adhesive manufacturers say 15mm. alternatively you can use a decent 6mm tile backer board depending on joist size/pitch/span & providing it’s over floorboards & not crap chip board. Third alternative is to replace the floor completely with 18-25mm WBP ply, again depending on joist size/pitch/span.

There is also lead within the bathroom, I am going to remove the lead for the water feeds but leave the lead of the water drain pipe, should I remove it all creating more work or leave it?
Not as critical on the waste but I’d still replace it; you’ll get a better price for the lead about 3 weeks or so into the new year.

Also any recommendations on adhesives for tiles? or grouts?
Tiling isn’t rocket science but there are still many things that can catch you out & suspended timber floors need special consideration; walls can also catch you out with tile weights, prep & materials. I would advise you read the Tiling Sticky & Forum Archive posts before doing any work or buying materials, it could prevent you making disastrous & potentially expensive mistakes. It’s also important to use only quality trade tilling materials of the correct type for your tiles & tile base; cheapo own brand & DIY stuff is mostly crap.
 

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