Newel post questions...HELP!

[angelboy]

I have a pretty ugly 1950's, hardboard covered staircase which I'd like to replace. I want to add spindles and maybe a sweeping bannister but I'm unsure as to what to do with the newel posts.

There are 4 and a half posts in total (bottom, top, turn left top, left again then half into the wall - if you understand what I mean) and they sit below the ceiling line.

Would I have to rip them out completely (beyond my capabilities) or would they be strong enough if I cut them down and then put a new newel into them?

Worst case I have to leave the big ugly things and just replace the base rail, banister and the spindles but I'm not sure if it will still look crap.

Any help/ideas?

I've stuck some photos up here:
www.diamondair.co.uk/stairs/stairs1.jpg
www.diamondair.co.uk/stairs/stairs2.jpg
www.diamondair.co.uk/stairs/stairs3.jpg
www.diamondair.co.uk/stairs/stairs4.jpg
www.diamondair.co.uk/stairs/stairs5.jpg
www.diamondair.co.uk/stairs/stairs6.jpg
www.diamondair.co.uk/stairs/stairs7.jpg
www.diamondair.co.uk/stairs/stairs8.jpg
www.diamondair.co.uk/stairs/stairs9.jpg
www.diamondair.co.uk/stairs/stairs10.jpg

 

[masona]

I have a pretty ugly 1950's, hardboard covered staircase which I'd like to replace. I want to add spindles

You may already have splindes hidden inside the panel? Can you somehow measure the width of the internal panel?

 

[Jasonb]

As Masona says there may be spindles behind the panels.

If not then you can cut the newels off approx 270mm from the line of the stairs, shape the ends, drill a 50mm hole and insert turned newels. You will also need to fit new hand and baserail to take your nes spindles.

Order a catalogue from Richard Burbidge, here the fitting instructions, they do all the parts you will need, I've just fitted an oak one for a client, turned out good.

Jason

 

[angelboy]

The panels are about 25mm thick so no hidden spindles (I removed the top panel to see)

So if I cut the posts down then the integrity of the current structure won't be sacrificed then? (It's a pretty solid staircase and I'd hate to cause a problem when the posts will be cut!)

 

[angelboy]

As Masona says there may be spindles behind the panels.

If not then you can cut the newels off approx 270mm from the line of the stairs, shape the ends, drill a 50mm hole and insert turned newels. You will also need to fit new hand and baserail to take your nes spindles.

Order a catalogue from Richard Burbidge, here the fitting instructions, they do all the parts you will need, I've just fitted an oak one for a client, turned out good.

Jason

Thanks for the fitting guide. It does say that if you're fitting a newel base for a corner landing then the base needs to be secured to the joists.

I wonder if it would still be OK to cut the landing newel and fit the new posts due to the fact that the bases would already be attached to the joists? Should be OK shouldn't it? I guess it's only the same as replacing the newel base (which would have to be fixed through the floor) and sticking in a new newel post anyway.

 

[Jasonb]

It is quite common to cut off the existing newel as trying to replace the whole thing will affect the whole staircase as you have already worked out. Replacing the newel bases is quite involved as the strings (sides of stair) will have been morticed into the newels.

Provided the hole is cut tight and vertically and the new newel top glued in well the whole thing will be nice and ridgid. If you are not confident about cutting mortice and tennon joints for the handrail I suggest you go for their "Bracket fix" range.

Jason

 

[angelboy]

New question.

How hard is it to cut the angles for a continuous handrail?

I downloaded all the fitting instructions from Richard Burbidge but in small letters at the bottom of one of the pages it refers to the continuous handrails and advises to have a proffessional fit them.

I'm having a hard time to find a joiner to fit the stairs!