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No central heating

Discussion in 'Plumbing and Central Heating' started by dpm_dpmartin, 18 Apr 2016.

  1. dpm_dpmartin

    dpm_dpmartin

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    Evening all,

    A few weeks ago I bought a Radkit and used it to remove a radiator. I didn't like it, so I went back to the normal way and I got a handyman in to do the largest one in the living room for me; so he drained down the central heating system and pulled it (and another radiator) off the wall.

    He then went on holiday and while he's been away I've done what I needed to do and I've actually managed to put both the radiators back on their brackets and connect them back up.

    I then tried to re-commission my central heating, but even though the boiler (Ideal Logic+ 30, chatty) says "Normal boiler operation" I cannot get any radiators from cold. The steps I took are those you follow in the instruction manual preceded by me using a bleed key to fill the radiators.

    So, I'm in the position where:

    - each radiator is full of water
    - each Lockshield valve is fully open (counter-clockwise)
    - each TRV that there is is set on 4

    The boiler is getting gas, the boiler supplies hot water, the thermostat is calling for heat as I set it to 22 degrees and you can hear the boiler controller click on... the CH outlet pipe seems to be getting hot to the touch, but I have no idea why that hot water won't circulate around the system.

    Picture 1, the boiler:

    [​IMG]

    Picture 2, the valves underneath the boiler, are they all OK?

    [​IMG]

    The handyman is still on holiday, so I'm not sure what else he did, but I have found this new drain valve in the cellar - this was not there before. I doubt I would need to do something with this, but it's like the system is full of water but it's not circulating around the system. I admit to being flummoxed right now. Handyman will be back at the end of this week... but I'd love to be able to tell him that I fixed it - all on my own!!! o_O

    Picture 3, the new drain valve in the cellar:

    [​IMG]

    As I say, I am of the opinion that the CH outlet is open, each Lockshield is open, each TRV is open and the CH return is open... does that look to be correct from my pictures or have I made a basic boo-boo?
     
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  3. TCCHeating

    TCCHeating

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    Sounds like you've got an airlock. Close all the rads and leave just one open and see if you can push the airlock out.

    If that doesn't work. Remove a rad and run water through each valve individually until the air comes out
     
  4. dpm_dpmartin

    dpm_dpmartin

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    Oh? Interesting. Never heard of this. Do I close each radiator at both sides? Should I leave the one without a TRV fully open or does it not matter?
     
  5. TCCHeating

    TCCHeating

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    Just close one side. Doesn't matter which rad you leave open but I would start with the one closest to the boiler
     
  6. Looking at the picture under the boiler, it looks as though the taps are in the off position; this would explain why it's hot prior to the tap. but only warm after it. But if I'm wrong, then shut all of the radiators down, apart from the one closest to the boiler, and see if it gets hot.

    The "new" drain valve actually looks pretty old, so you may not have noticed it before. The copper would be shiny rather than dull, and there wouldn't be green on it.
     
  7. dpm_dpmartin

    dpm_dpmartin

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    Intuition told me the two black knobs were closed too. But I changed them both to how they are now from the other position, assuming he'd done that when removing the radiators and draining it down. The Ideal manual does not seem to cover this. I think they're both open... they match the orientation of DHW and that works.

    The valve in the cellar is most definitely new (he brought it with him) but it might've replaced an old one that was jammed-up.
     
  8. TCCHeating

    TCCHeating

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    The valves in your picture are in the open posision
     
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  9. dpm_dpmartin

    dpm_dpmartin

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  11. dpm_dpmartin

    dpm_dpmartin

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    I set all TRVs to 0 and that left 1 radiator with both valves fully open. I set the boiler to winter mode and called for heat by setting the thermostat to 22 degrees. The far left pipe got hot again, but no radiator did. I left it for around 2 hours while I was pottering about with other stuff.

    Disappointed.

    Should I drain the entire thing down via that drain valve in the cellar and start again?
     
  12. Tay7

    Tay7

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    You've got an airlock.

    Get the other fella back in. You've paid him so far so why go solo now?
     
  13. dpm_dpmartin

    dpm_dpmartin

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    As I said, he's away... and I am keen to learn how to resolve. Not the end of the world if I have to wait until, say, Monday, but why can't I do what a Handyman could?

    The answer isn't that I'm an idiot.
     
  14. Agile

    Agile

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    Why, Why, Why do DIYers faced with an airlock want to drain it all down and fill it completely with air?

    Close all rads but one, put on heating and open each rad one at a time so the open rad moves along.

    That will often shift the airlock

    Tony
     
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  15. dpm_dpmartin

    dpm_dpmartin

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    I'll try that then. Will report back tomorrow.
     
  16. Agile

    Agile

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    It only takes 3 min per rad.

    You could even do it this evening!
     
  17. AGAS

    AGAS

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    is the handyman still going to get paid when you finish project just a thought
     
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