No hot water from Combi
- Thread starter m4rky
- Start date
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I bought the diaphram from :-
www.thegasworkscompany.co.uk
[email protected]
The kit came complete and assembled.
Shut off all mains power, water etc. Isolate the appliance. Work in a ventilated space. Well lit and no smoking. Be sensible it is a gas appliance and it has live mains electricity. Isolate it. Make sure appliance is cold before working on it.
If you are competant have a go but I warn you. This is a gas appliance and it is illegal for anyone to tamper with it, even if its only waterconnections. You have to be corgi registered. I do not in any way take any responsibility if you do have a go. Ok. Lol.
A kit costs no more than £20 tops. I got mine for a lot less. It should take any competant corgi guy 40-50mins to change tops. It took me 1/2 hr. Thats gotta be less than a ton and frankly anything above £50 and theyre ripping you off. I'd do it for the price of the kit and a cuppa tea, its a really basic thing. In my defence I am a consulting mechanical engineer within the HVAC industry. In my prosecution, I should know better. Get a decent corgi guy thats honest. There are plenty of them out there. Oh, it also invalidates your household insurance if your house goes bang and the coppers will bang you up too. Right, disclaimer out of the way.....
The flow diverter is to the right of the secondary heat exchanger. Its top is secured by approx 8-10 screws and is shaped like a UFO, inside here is where the diaphram lurks. Above it is a set of 3 microswitches in a plastic housing. This is secured to the top of the diaphram housing by a circlip or fork clip. Remove circlip, and the microswitch housing can be hung somewhere safe. On the top of the diaphram housing you will see a black t shaped plastic thing. This is secured by a push fit to the top off the diaphram needle and can be just lightly pulled off the top. (Incidently this switches the microswitches when there is flow through the diverter to switch on pumps, burners etc. If your diaphram is split, this will not rise and switch the switches and is a good indication if it is knackered). On the left of the diaphram housing is a connection to the secondary heat exchanger. You need to disconnect this and the 8-10 securing screws to remove the diaphram housing. Once all the screws are removed and the top of the diverter housing disconnected from the secondary heat exchanger. A light tap on the housing should free it. Lift it off and behold the diaphram. Pull it out, chuck it in the bin and put in the new kit. Then put in a new fibre washer on the connection to the secondary, replace the diaphram housing cover. Secure all the screws. Reconnect the secondary to the top. Turn on mains water slowly to make sure theres no leaks. Replace t piece and the microswitches to top of the diaphram needle, resecure with circlip. Replace cover. Switch mains electrical back on. Turn on tap and hey presto.
Good luck
www.thegasworkscompany.co.uk
[email protected]
The kit came complete and assembled.
Shut off all mains power, water etc. Isolate the appliance. Work in a ventilated space. Well lit and no smoking. Be sensible it is a gas appliance and it has live mains electricity. Isolate it. Make sure appliance is cold before working on it.
If you are competant have a go but I warn you. This is a gas appliance and it is illegal for anyone to tamper with it, even if its only waterconnections. You have to be corgi registered. I do not in any way take any responsibility if you do have a go. Ok. Lol.
A kit costs no more than £20 tops. I got mine for a lot less. It should take any competant corgi guy 40-50mins to change tops. It took me 1/2 hr. Thats gotta be less than a ton and frankly anything above £50
and theyre ripping you off. I'd do it for the price of the kit and a cuppa tea, its a really basic thing. In my defence I am a consulting mechanical engineer within the HVAC industry. In my prosecution, I should know better. Get a decent corgi guy thats honest. There are plenty of them out there. Oh, it also invalidates your household insurance if your house goes bang and the coppers will bang you up too. Right, disclaimer out of the way..... The flow diverter is to the right of the secondary heat exchanger. Its top is secured by approx 8-10 screws and is shaped like a UFO, inside here is where the diaphram lurks. Above it is a set of 3 microswitches in a plastic housing. This is secured to the top of the diaphram housing by a circlip or fork clip. Remove circlip, and the microswitch housing can be hung somewhere safe. On the top of the diaphram housing you will see a black t shaped plastic thing. This is secured by a push fit to the top off the diaphram needle and can be just lightly pulled off the top. (Incidently this switches the microswitches when there is flow through the diverter to switch on pumps, burners etc. If your diaphram is split, this will not rise and switch the switches and is a good indication if it is knackered). On the left of the diaphram housing is a connection to the secondary heat exchanger. You need to disconnect this and the 8-10 securing screws to remove the diaphram housing. Once all the screws are removed and the top of the diverter housing disconnected from the secondary heat exchanger. A light tap on the housing should free it. Lift it off and behold the diaphram. Pull it out, chuck it in the bin and put in the new kit. Then put in a new fibre washer on the connection to the secondary, replace the diaphram housing cover. Secure all the screws. Reconnect the secondary to the top. Turn on mains water slowly to make sure theres no leaks. Replace t piece and the microswitches to top of the diaphram needle, resecure with circlip. Replace cover. Switch mains electrical back on. Turn on tap and hey presto.
Good luck
not if it's your own and you are not working for gain
wouldn't have sent you the instructions otherwise
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kevplumb said:not if it's your own and you are not working for gain
wouldn't have sent you the instructions otherwise
Really? Cool. I did not know that. Thanks. I dont mind working waterside, but gasside I leave well alone. I have an allergy towards explosions.
Cheers once agian Kev.
Cheers for the instructions, I decided to get someone in to do it.
A plumber came this morning and charged me £150inc to replace the Divertor Valve. Took him 1hr 20 mins.
He probably could have done it quicker. I felt he dragged it out a bit, but at least its done now, and wasn't too expensive.
The other day I phoned British Gas and for £25pm (£9 more than usual) they would give me a years maintenance contract and fix the fault (so thats £108 for fixing).
But when the engineer came he said BG had a policy NOT to work on Ariston EuroCombis as they breakdown too often and they would loose money. Great!!!
They shouldn't have set up an account, so he cancelled my maintenance contract there and then. But he did take the boiler cover off and show me that the diaphragm/divertor valve wasn't working correctly!
Mark
A plumber came this morning and charged me £150inc to replace the Divertor Valve. Took him 1hr 20 mins.
He probably could have done it quicker. I felt he dragged it out a bit, but at least its done now, and wasn't too expensive.
The other day I phoned British Gas and for £25pm (£9 more than usual) they would give me a years maintenance contract and fix the fault (so thats £108 for fixing).
But when the engineer came he said BG had a policy NOT to work on Ariston EuroCombis as they breakdown too often and they would loose money. Great!!!
They shouldn't have set up an account, so he cancelled my maintenance contract there and then. But he did take the boiler cover off and show me that the diaphragm/divertor valve wasn't working correctly!
Mark
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