oil boiler problem

[flemija]

My danesmoor PJ 15-19 oil boiler is about 20 years old and has stting idle for 5 months. It runs for about 2 minutes then locks out. There is plenty of oil in the tank, the filter is clean. I called out a worcester engineer who was reluctant to look at it because of the age, however he checked it out and serviced it without any success. He said that I need a new controller Danfoss BH012.1 (now obsolete) One supplier can supply a newer model and an adaptor plate but they suggested a complete new burner Sterling 40 at £235. this sounds a better option to me.
Any comments please? Could I install the new burner myself or do I need an engineer?
Thanks

 

[oilman]

The Sterling would be better, but you wou;ld need to have it set correctly. You could try ebay for a burner. They would also need setting up.

You could get a Satronic control box and replace the old one. You would need a new base, and if you can wire things up then it wouldn't need further setting.

Otherwise you can get someone who looks after boilers, rather than Worcester who look after themselves.

 

[flemija]

thanks oilman I have ordered the controller as a first step

The Sterling would be better, but you wou;ld need to have it set correctly. You could try ebay for a burner. They would also need setting up.

You could get a Satronic control box and replace the old one. You would need a new base, and if you can wire things up then it wouldn't need further setting.

Otherwise you can get someone who looks after boilers, rather than Worcester who look after themselves.

 

[flemija]

Hi Oilman
I have fitted the new controller and adaptor plate but still getting the same problem.
The supplier of the control box suggested that it might be a solonoid problem so I have ordered one of them to try.
If I look through the inspection plate I can see the ignition sparks (quite strong) sometimes it fires up, burns for a minute or two then the flame extingushes. Sometimes it fails to ignite all together. In both cases it goes to lock out. Am I on the right track with the new solonoid?

The Sterling would be better, but you wou;ld need to have it set correctly. You could try ebay for a burner. They would also need setting up.

You could get a Satronic control box and replace the old one. You would need a new base, and if you can wire things up then it wouldn't need further setting.

Otherwise you can get someone who looks after boilers, rather than Worcester who look after themselves.

 

[Statia]

I know zero about your boiler and am just a DIY enthusiast, but I would say that if your boiler has some form of flame detection, that may not be functioning correctly.

 

[WDIK]

delete

 

[Kristoflampie]

Had a similar problem on a Bentone burner, ran for a short period perfectly then locked out randomly then refired normally after being reset. Combustion etc spot on ....Traced it to the solenoid not opening on the pump now and then , the coil obviously giving up after a bit but fine after a wee rest for another short stint. Replaced entire pump complete with solenoid to be sure, its a neighbours boiler so Im sure I would have heard if it had failed again

 

[flemija]

Thanks I have tried 2 different photo cells and they both lock out when the flame dies so I assume they are operating as they should

I know zero about your boiler and am just a DIY enthusiast, but I would say that if your boiler has some form of flame detection, that may not be functioning correctly.

 

[flemija]

Hi everybody
The solonoid seems to have solved the main problem, however I still seem to have an air flow problem. There is an inspection cover at the back of the fire tube and I have opened this to ensure that I can see the spark and the flame.
The problem is that when I close the inspection cover completely the flame dies and the burner goes to lockout after a few seconds. When it is open I can feel air from the fan escaping. I am running the burner with the cover just slightly open and everything seems OK. Is there anything I should be looking at?

 

[OilLecky]

If I understand you correctly. When you open a cover at the rear of the burner (i.e the flame is pointing the other way?) everything works OK?
You can also probably feel air being blown out of the rear of the burner. When you refit the cover then the flame goes out?

If so, then the burner is "over-aired". i.e. it has too much air going to it and you are letting some escape thus correcting the situation. In combustion, the ratio of oxygen to fuel needs to be correct. Too much of either will upset the balance and combustion will cease.
Close the air inlet damper slightly and try again. This may get it firing OK but really you need to have a "Flue Gas Analysis" done so that you have efficient combustion otherwise you could be wasting oil. (If you close the air inlet too much the boiler will produce soot. You definitely do not want this so watch out for it!)

 

[flemija]

Thanks OilLecky
You understand it exactly and your solution is what I thought it might need but I have been scared to adjust the air flow for the very reasons you mentioned.
I will try to get a flue gas analyser, or it's back to the service engineer- my last resort.
Cheers John

If I understand you correctly. When you open a cover at the rear of the burner (i.e the flame is pointing the other way?) everything works OK?
You can also probably feel air being blown out of the rear of the burner. When you refit the cover then the flame goes out?

If so, then the burner is "over-aired". i.e. it has too much air going to it and you are letting some escape thus correcting the situation. In combustion, the ratio of oxygen to fuel needs to be correct. Too much of either will upset the balance and combustion will cease.
Close the air inlet damper slightly and try again. This may get it firing OK but really you need to have a "Flue Gas Analysis" done so that you have efficient combustion otherwise you could be wasting oil. (If you close the air inlet too much the boiler will produce soot. You definitely do not want this so watch out for it!)

 

[oilman]

A smoke pump will do. Turn down the air until the boiler runs, then sample the flue gas to ensure there is no smoke. Carry on turning it down and sampling until it is just smoking, then turn the air up a bit and check it doesn't smoke. That will do until you get it checked.

May be up your way after Christmas

 

[OilLecky]

Yes. Do what Oilman says. You can close the air off a little anyway as it will certainly help. For instance go down one number; if it is on "4" set it to "3".