That's why I'm here!?
Oil boiler tail of woe...
- Thread starter xr4x4
- Start date
That's why I'm here!?
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Anyway, what's the point with messing with the settings when it's been set up correctly.
If its not working properly then obviously it needs checking and the problem fixed.
If the problem started shortly after a service then most engineers will come and see whats gone wrong. That may or may not be chargeable depending on whats happened.
Tony
If the problem started shortly after a service then most engineers will come and see whats gone wrong. That may or may not be chargeable depending on whats happened.
Tony
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As the burner is only grumpy at the first start of the day and is ok thereafter there really can't be too much wrong with it.....
It would be good to know the actual pump pressure and CO2 readings though - as the unit was fitted with a nozzle for 35 sec instead of 28 sec oil there will be a significant difference in the pump pressure.
Personally I think the pressure could be a little low, but its not something to guess at. You'd do your customer a great favour by cleaning out the boiler gas passages, and wire brushing the baffles though!
The baffles ideally should be pretty clean with a few hard sulphur deposits on them - if you find copious amounts of soot - especially oily stuff - then the burner is miles out. Make sure you clean the ledge just before the flue!
Enjoy
John
It would be good to know the actual pump pressure and CO2 readings though - as the unit was fitted with a nozzle for 35 sec instead of 28 sec oil there will be a significant difference in the pump pressure.
Personally I think the pressure could be a little low, but its not something to guess at. You'd do your customer a great favour by cleaning out the boiler gas passages, and wire brushing the baffles though!
The baffles ideally should be pretty clean with a few hard sulphur deposits on them - if you find copious amounts of soot - especially oily stuff - then the burner is miles out. Make sure you clean the ledge just before the flue!
Enjoy
John
The baffles ideally should be pretty clean with a few hard sulphur deposits on them
John
Why should the baffles ideally have sulphur deposits on them?
I should have thought they are best totally clean!
I've yet to find baffles that are totally clean - especially on old Trianco's So when you consider the amount of kerosene that has passed through the burner there will usually be deposits on the cooler part of the baffle especially. If I see these deposits with negligible soot then I consider the appliance to be reasonably well set up. Naturally I'm not considering the overfiring possibility here.
John
So when you consider the amount of kerosene that has passed through the burner there will usually be deposits on the cooler part of the baffle especially. If I see these deposits with negligible soot then I consider the appliance to be reasonably well set up. Naturally I'm not considering the overfiring possibility here.John
As the burner is only grumpy at the first start of the day and is ok thereafter there really can't be too much wrong with it.....
It would be good to know the actual pump pressure and CO2 readings though - as the unit was fitted with a nozzle for 35 sec instead of 28 sec oil there will be a significant difference in the pump pressure.
Personally I think the pressure could be a little low, but its not something to guess at. You'd do your customer a great favour by cleaning out the boiler gas passages, and wire brushing the baffles though!
The baffles ideally should be pretty clean with a few hard sulphur deposits on them - if you find copious amounts of soot - especially oily stuff - then the burner is miles out. Make sure you clean the ledge just before the flue!
Enjoy
John
thank you again john,
as far as i know (as i haven't got involved) this is the case and works fine untill off for a period of time, then takes two resets to be fine again.
the pump pressure i can check (should be 100psi from memory?) cant check co2 but he was told smoke and co2 are good. (by oftec guy)
ill talk to him and see what he says.
funny thing is ive been able to keep their other much (20 years?) older trianco next door running fine over the past few years. just by basic servicing (new nozzles and hoovering baffles etc)
Naughty...!
Ok update.
I mentioned the tight baffle problem to him and he asked me to have a look.... Great..!
So I took out the baffles. It wasn't sooted up at all, so it's running cleanly. I ground them down a touch. cleaned them, wire brushed hoovered them and the combustion chamber. Put them back in the order according to the manual.
I set up the combustion settings as per manual, including the electrodes. cleaned main line filter and pump filter.
The nozzle is a danfloss 1.0 60 es, should be a 1.1 60es? So not sure why that's been fitted.
Put it all back together, bled the pump, fitted a pressure gauge and it fired up perfectly first time, no proof or bang. Flame cut off was perfect.
Pump pressure was set to around 140 psi, so I dropped it to 100 psi (as per manual) the flue started smelling, not a sweet smell like it should, so I turned it back up to around 120 psi. This improved things.
The air door was already nearly up to maximum setting. One thing I noticed was the sorkel smelled of combustion gases, surly this should be clean air?
Anyway I left it running ok, not smoking or smelling, thinking hopefully I'd put it to bed finally.
Unfortunately that hasn't been the case, it's still locking out.
Anyone got any ideas?
I'm not charging him btw.
I mentioned the tight baffle problem to him and he asked me to have a look.... Great..!
So I took out the baffles. It wasn't sooted up at all, so it's running cleanly. I ground them down a touch. cleaned them, wire brushed hoovered them and the combustion chamber. Put them back in the order according to the manual.
I set up the combustion settings as per manual, including the electrodes. cleaned main line filter and pump filter.
The nozzle is a danfloss 1.0 60 es, should be a 1.1 60es? So not sure why that's been fitted.
Put it all back together, bled the pump, fitted a pressure gauge and it fired up perfectly first time, no proof or bang. Flame cut off was perfect.
Pump pressure was set to around 140 psi, so I dropped it to 100 psi (as per manual) the flue started smelling, not a sweet smell like it should, so I turned it back up to around 120 psi. This improved things.
The air door was already nearly up to maximum setting. One thing I noticed was the sorkel smelled of combustion gases, surly this should be clean air?
Anyway I left it running ok, not smoking or smelling, thinking hopefully I'd put it to bed finally.
Unfortunately that hasn't been the case, it's still locking out.
Anyone got any ideas?
I'm not charging him btw.
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Fit A Grant. Trianco's are a bag of sh$$te
Must admit the dark art of oil firing is well a bit of a mystery to me , I leave it to my mate but I recall a while back thet we had an oil fired boiler that would lock out on start up , think it was a Trianco about 5 years old ?
and what was discovered was that the plastic drive , coupling thingy ? that links the oil pump to the burner drive was worn/ catching , would only lock out from cold , reset it away it went ect ect just a thought ??
dunno what the tech name is for the plastic/rubber coupling drive thingy is ?? does any of this make sense to u oil fellas ???
and what was discovered was that the plastic drive , coupling thingy ? that links the oil pump to the burner drive was worn/ catching , would only lock out from cold , reset it away it went ect ect just a thought ??
dunno what the tech name is for the plastic/rubber coupling drive thingy is ?? does any of this make sense to u oil fellas ???
I know its not a drive dog, someone else asked what they were called.
When you get the non-start, does the burner run through the purge cycle before it locks out, does the burner light and then go out, or does it just come up with reset?
The oil pressure and nozzle settings are of course linked, you need to start off with the right nozzle, the right oil pressure and the correct CO2 reading.
Without starting from there you are p1ssing in the breeze and wasting everyones time, including your own.
When you get the non-start, does the burner run through the purge cycle before it locks out, does the burner light and then go out, or does it just come up with reset?
The oil pressure and nozzle settings are of course linked, you need to start off with the right nozzle, the right oil pressure and the correct CO2 reading.
Without starting from there you are p1ssing in the breeze and wasting everyones time, including your own.
I've just got back form Holiday in Italy, seen this post and now offer my opinion-
It is unlikely to be a fault due to dirty baffles etc (it's just been serviced!!)
My line of thought leads to the Capacitor on the burner motor
the boiler will not fire after it has been standing for a few hours - is this not "Classic" Capacitor fault!?????:
It is unlikely to be a fault due to dirty baffles etc (it's just been serviced!!)
My line of thought leads to the Capacitor on the burner motor
the boiler will not fire after it has been standing for a few hours - is this not "Classic" Capacitor fault!?????:
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