On top or not

[Ugh!]

Just about to lay laminate flooring in a kitchen the main area of which is 11ft x11ft.
There will be cupboard units along two sides of this and a single unit (u/sink) plus cooker and fridge on another.
What are your opinions as to whether the laminate should be laid as a complete floor with the cupboard units resting on top or to leave areas where the unit feet will be.
There will be no option other than to have the cooker and fridge resting on the laminate on that side of the room.

I am just thinking of the laminate being able to float and not ripple or distort.

 

[big-all]

two lines of thought easiest lay floor first providing you leave the correct gap all round you can always move the the fridge and cooker slightly[pull out a few inches and push back]to allow the floor to settle flat

now if you do it this way when you want in years to come change the laminate floor you will either have to cut up to every unit [a near imposible task] or carefully try and pull it out withe the result everything drops by about 10mm leaving a gap between worktops and tileing ect

so if your unlikly to change your floor before the units first option easiest option

 

[lordlucan]

Moved

 

[Ugh!]

Thanks for the replies.

Perhaps I should have been more specific.

I have no problem with the actual laying of the laminate. In this case the old boards are in bad shape and VERY uneven so I intend to pull them up and lay a chipboard floor to start with.

My question really was - (A) should I lay a complete laminate floor and simply stand the units on this, or - (B) leave areas under the units unclad so that the feet of these can rest on the chip floor thus allowing the laminate to be able to 'float' unhindered by the weight. I can't quite see the logic of allowing a gap all around to allow it to 'move' but then, in effect, pinning the laminate down by the weight of the units (plus contents). Would this method be unnecessary on such a small area.
As it would be far simpler to do (A), I would prefer this.
It is very unlikely that the units will be moved in the future as there is little scope for any other arrangement.

 

[WoodYouLike]

Ugh, Ugh!
In a kitchen area it's much more simpler (in installing and for possible future problem solving) to install the flooring a few inches underneath the kitchenunits and place the kickboards on top of it.

Good luck

 

[Antwerpman]

(A) will certainly be easier and probably look neater too. I think what you need to consider is if the laminate will be pinned on opposite sides of the room, then as you say there is no room (except buckling) for the laminate to move in to when expanding. If you have the laminate pinned on only one side then the risk of buckling would be reduced IMHO.

 

[WoodYouLike]

Hi Antwerpman.
Your suggestion counts only for solid and wood-engineered flooring. Laminated, at least I think that's what Ugh wants to install, is the Melamine product: fotocopy of wood.
Tiny gap is needed with this product, can be filled with (transparant) silicon, advisable in wtter areas.
For Solid and Wood-engineered flooring: minimum of 10mm expansion gap (DON't fill with cork strips!!) and (re)place skirtingboards on it or install flat beading or scotia to cover gaps.

 

[lordlucan]

hi woodyoulike

Could not get hold of OSMO Polyx Hard Wax Oil

How about finishing the laminate/realwood (eng) for waterproofing with this from Homebase at £40 a throw ...

 

[WoodYouLike]

Hi Lordlucan
I've looked at the ronseal website, but can't find the product of your picture. If it's only wax, you can use it, but....
If your flooring is unfinished, you need to apply several layers of the wax before the product has penetrated the wood sufficiantly to protect it.
Where are you based, we might have a product more suitable for you.
(see my profile for email address)

 

[lordlucan]

Thanks WUL, sent

 

[Ugh!]

Antwerpman,

[quote=" I think what you need to consider is if the laminate will be pinned on opposite sides of the room, then as you say there is no room (except buckling) for the laminate to move in to when expanding. If you have the laminate pinned on only one side then the risk of buckling would be reduced IMHO.[/quote]

This is how I saw it also.
There will be cupboard units on on two sides(@90*) and a fridge and washing machine on another. Knowing how much stuff we put into cupboards, these will be very heavy, so to me it made sense to only laminate to just under the units and adjust the legs to give a tiny clearance between the bottom of the units and the laminate. Would you agree ?

WoodYouLike,

You said " Your suggestion counts only for solid and wood-engineered flooring. "

Don't really uderstand - can you explain please. I thought Melamine laminate had to be able to 'float' in order to avoid expansion buckling.

 

[WoodYouLike]

Dear Ugh

Sorry for the confusion. I thought you ment leaving 10mm expansion gaps for Melamine laminated flooring. That only really counts for Solid and Wood-Engineered flooring.

Hope this will make it clearer?

 

[masona]

it made sense to only laminate to just under the units and adjust the legs to give a tiny clearance between the bottom of the units and the laminate. Would you agree ?

Yes, make sure nothing is resting on the laminated round the edge. As for oven or fridge just cut up to it as far as you can and you won't noticed the gap at all.

 

[Arthur Cider]

so what happens when he moves the fridge freezer wmachine - left a bit / right a bit / over there etc

Why not just floor upto the wall less 10mm expansion gap and put white furniture on top

 

[WoodYouLike]

Hi Arthur.

I can see your confusion. As installers of flooring we frequently encounter kitchens and appliances. 9 out of 10 times we never have any problems later when the floor goes in those areas where appliances will be put on the flooring as long as at other sides the normal expansion gaps are left. Wood will work, if not this way, then the other (free) way.