Options for attaching rectangular PVC trunking

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I looked in the wiki for "Working with PVC Conduit" but there was no entry.

I want to run a length of 38 x 25 PVC trunking in a corner of a plasterboard lined room. Unfortunately, the plasterboard is Paramount board with some unseen metal studs /channel inside. It means I can't use plasterboard fixings as they won't go through the metal. I don't know what the metal looks like so drilling it is awkward.

What options do I have to fix the trunking to the wall please? Gripfill? Self adhesive tape? Spit?
 
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I guess you mean trunking, or mini-trunking as it's usually called (if less than 50mm).

Often comes with double sided tape stuck to the back. That's often all you need.
 
Self adhesive trunking can be a nightmare.

Unless you fit a few random screws, it often becomes unstuck.

ALSO, IF YOU WANT TO REMOVE IT, IT OFTEN DESTROYS THE SURFACE IT'S STUCK TO.

If you can screw it to the surface, a self tapper screw or similar can be screwed into the metal stud.
 
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Plasterboard screws (the black ones plasterers use) will usually self tap into those tin studs. It's only thin, and that's how they fix their plasterboard to it, after all.
 
I have wondered what it is that's supposed to be special about those black plasterboard screw. After all, they're not self-tappers (for metal studding). Maybe it's the fact that the head is relatively large compared to the shank diameter, or is it the corrosion resistance suitability? ... I don't know.
 
Not sure what the definition of self tapper is but they do go in without drilling first.

They have a coarse thread so fewer turns.
The heads are very well made; they fit the screwdriver perfectly.
They have a bugle head for going into the plasterboard.

I suppose the black is corrosion prevention.
 
Iggifer, worked a treat and you could feel it cutting it's own thread. Holds very well. Kisses, but in a manly way of course.
 
We have yet to have a reaction from Iggi re the manly kisses...:whistle: (take away the "whistle" and that could be a "manly kiss" emoticon...)
 
The heads are very well made; they fit the screwdriver perfectly.

years ago when I was on site, hardly anyone had cordless tools, yet the plasterboard fixers all seemed to have the same small Makiti gun that drove them in, yet seemed to cam out at the precise depth, I quess thats one screw type that will never evolve, due to the amount of fitting tools in use
 
That's because Philips head screws (as dryline screws all seem to be) are somewhat designed to cam-out at a certain torque. It seems it was actually a flaw with the original design, but turned out to work in manufacturers favour in certain industries.

I'm just going to ignore the kisses comment. Good job he doesn't know where I live
 

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