Outdoor Light Wiring Question

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Hi,

Quick question please. I intend to wire an outdoor coach lantern style light, with the wire going from the light to the loft via the soffit, housed inside conduit.

Once inside the loft, can I connect the 5-amp FCU directly to a 3-terminal junction box (which supplies one 3 pin plug in the loft), or do I need to spur off the plug itself? Please see my paint masterpiece for details - is it option 1 or 2, or are both possible/incorrect.



I believe I will then need to get it part-P signed?

Many thanks for your time and knowledge.

Regards,
Jeremy.
 
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Once inside the loft, can I connect the 5-amp FCU directly to a 3-terminal junction box (which supplies one 3 pin plug in the loft),
If this socket is on an actual 'socket circuit' then your diagram shows it as a spur so you would have to fit a 13A FCU before the socket and the 3/5A FCU for the light.
It could be a radial circuit where it would be allowed as you have drawn it but that is not likely.

or do I need to spur off the plug itself? Please see my paint masterpiece for details - is it option 1 or 2, or are both possible/incorrect.
Whichever is easier/nearer.

Can you not connect to the lighting circuit then there would be no need for the FCU(s).
Will you not want a switch somewhere? Double pole is preferable for outside items.

I believe I will then need to get it part-P signed?
It is no longer notifiable work but all work should be tested and an electrician would/should give you a Minor Electrical Installation Work Certificate if he did the work.
 
Once inside the loft, can I connect the 5-amp FCU directly to a 3-terminal junction box (which supplies one 3 pin plug in the loft),
If this socket is on an actual 'socket circuit' then your diagram shows it as a spur so you would have to fit a 13A FCU before the socket and the 3/5A FCU for the light.
It could be a radial circuit where it would be allowed as you have drawn it but that is not likely.

or do I need to spur off the plug itself? Please see my paint masterpiece for details - is it option 1 or 2, or are both possible/incorrect.
Whichever is easier/nearer.

Can you not connect to the lighting circuit then there would be no need for the FCU(s).
Will you not want a switch somewhere? Double pole is preferable for outside items.

I believe I will then need to get it part-P signed?
It is no longer notifiable work but all work should be tested and an electrician would/should give you a Minor Electrical Installation Work Certificate if he did the work.

Thank you very much for your reply and insight.

The main reason for wanting to come off of the mains rather than lighting circuit is the instructions for the light, which state: "DO NOT WIRE THIS FLOODLIGHT INTO THE LIGHTING CIRCUIT. USE A SWITCHED FUSED SPUR". It's written in capitals so I took it seriously.

I should have mentioned that the light has a dusk-till-dawn sensor, so should take care of itself coming on. I was planning on using a switched FCU (+pattress box) in case I needed to turn it off, and was happy for this to be sited in the loft.

I'm pleased to hear my option 1 is feasible, as this will make it easier/neater for me.

Regarding the 13A FCU you say may be required - how would one know if it were a socket circuit or a radial circuit? It was like that when I moved in, and I don't know where the mains cable entering the loft originates. Does this mean it should have had one but doesn't, or is it now required because of the added 5A FCU? And if I did need one, would it go between the junction box and the plug socket, or before it reached the junction box?

Thanks again.

Kindest Regards,
Jeremy.
 
quite often sockets in lofts (for ariel amps) are connected off the 6A lighting circuit.

So first move would be to turn off the upstairs lights and see if the socket no longer has power.

If it does go off with the lights, fitted a fused spur is probably a waste of time but the dual pole switch would be useful.


What wattage bulb does the light have ?
 
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quite often sockets in lofts (for ariel amps) are connected off the 6A lighting circuit.

So first move would be to turn off the upstairs lights and see if the socket no longer has power.

If it does go off with the lights, fitted a fused spur is probably a waste of time but the dual pole switch would be useful.


What wattage bulb does the light have ?

Thanks for your reply - I can confirm the loft socket goes off with half the other sockets in the house and not with the lights. This never occurred to me so thanks for making me check. The bulb is an 18w energy saving bulb (the lamp claims to work at 6w until a motion sensor detects movement at which point all 18w kicks in). Cheers.
 
The main reason for wanting to come off of the mains rather than lighting circuit is the instructions for the light, which state: "DO NOT WIRE THIS FLOODLIGHT INTO THE LIGHTING CIRCUIT. USE A SWITCHED FUSED SPUR". It's written in capitals so I took it seriously.
I'm tempted to say that is nonsense - unless there is something of which I am unaware.

I should have mentioned that the light has a dusk-till-dawn sensor, so should take care of itself coming on. I was planning on using a switched FCU (+pattress box) in case I needed to turn it off, and was happy for this to be sited in the loft.
That's good enough.

Regarding the 13A FCU you say may be required - how would one know if it were a socket circuit or a radial circuit? It was like that when I moved in, and I don't know where the mains cable entering the loft originates.
You would need to know how to test it.

Does this mean it should have had one but doesn't, or is it now required because of the added 5A FCU?
Yes, required if more than one item on a spur so best play safe if it is not known.

And if I did need one, would it go between the junction box and the plug socket, or before it reached the junction box?
You could the 13A FCU instead of the junction box.
 
The main reason for wanting to come off of the mains rather than lighting circuit is the instructions for the light, which state: "DO NOT WIRE THIS FLOODLIGHT INTO THE LIGHTING CIRCUIT. USE A SWITCHED FUSED SPUR". It's written in capitals so I took it seriously.
I'm tempted to say that is nonsense - unless there is something of which I am unaware.

I should have mentioned that the light has a dusk-till-dawn sensor, so should take care of itself coming on. I was planning on using a switched FCU (+pattress box) in case I needed to turn it off, and was happy for this to be sited in the loft.
That's good enough.

Regarding the 13A FCU you say may be required - how would one know if it were a socket circuit or a radial circuit? It was like that when I moved in, and I don't know where the mains cable entering the loft originates.
You would need to know how to test it.

Does this mean it should have had one but doesn't, or is it now required because of the added 5A FCU?
Yes, required if more than one item on a spur so best play safe if it is not known.

And if I did need one, would it go between the junction box and the plug socket, or before it reached the junction box?
You could the 13A FCU instead of the junction box.

I think I'm almost there now then - I shall firstly replace the junction box with a 13A FCU to be on the safe side.

I will then connect this 13A FCU to the 5A FCU using 2.5mm cable. My only question is, which side of the 13A FCU do I connect to, the Supply or the Load? I will then use 1mm cable to connect the 5A FCU to the outdoor light.

Thanks again for the advice.

Jeremy.
 

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