hi guys, first post ,I have read 2 posts on outside lights, I replaced a pir outside light with a non pir light. The light worked for 3 days , checked 2 bulbs /exchanged the light fitting for another one just in case . zero . used a screwdriver with fuse light ,checked 2positive reds/ 1black neg / 1 hot switch neg/ all live. the end of the light socket live . (no light came on ) Tried this for 3 hrs doubled back on all the wire connections , next door neighbour did the same zerooooooooooo The second pic is what I use but mine is a spur and the last one on this line. The third pic is what I found on line and would like to know what it is for ,thanks in advance . (DIY is like licking honey off a thorn )
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outside light impossible
- Thread starter Gusgus
- Start date
Nice pictures, NOT!
You need some approved test equipment, so you can safely test for continuity and voltage, neon testers need to be binned they are not going to help you.
A thing that can catch you out, is the schoolboy error of not checking one the lamp is working and two that it is seated in the contacts correctly.
A thing that can catch you out, is the schoolboy error of not checking one the lamp is working and two that it is seated in the contacts correctly.
thanks for the quick reply. checked the lamp with flex/plug all 3 bulbs worked did this 10 plus times so did my pal . checked both sides of the wiring all the way to the bulb holder 10 plus times all showing hot , even returned the light to WICKS returned with a new light zero we are both 70 yrs old and have a little knowledge the only thing we have not done but thinking about is to put our fingers into the socket just don't know what to do next (no wiring has changed from the original lighting . thanks for any more advice gus
thanks for the quick reply. checked the lamp with flex/plug all 3 bulbs worked did this 10 plus times so did my pal . checked both sides of the wiring all the way to the bulb holder 10 plus times all showing hot , even returned the light to WICKS returned with a new light zero we are both 70 yrs old and have a little knowledge the only thing we have not done but thinking about is to put our fingers into the socket just don't know what to do next (no wiring has changed from the original lighting . thanks for any more advice gus
If you are using a neon screwdriver as a test instrument, it is not going to help you and are unreliable. You need a two probe/pole voltage indicator.
you state you have tested conductors to be live, what voltage was you getting?
Oh the screwdriver wont tell you that, bin it, it ain't helping you.
I am looking at your diagrams and photos, can I assume this:
*The two reds connected together in picture of terminal block are looped between a live feed and the switch?
*The black sleeved red, is the switch live from the switch?
*The black unsleeved, is neutral?
*And when you connect the light you put the blue conductor to the black and brown conductor to the black sleeved red?
Have you also checked that the bare conductor ends are all making good contact within the terminal strips and there is no plastic insulation trapped by the grub screws?
you state you have tested conductors to be live, what voltage was you getting?
Oh the screwdriver wont tell you that, bin it, it ain't helping you.
I am looking at your diagrams and photos, can I assume this:
*The two reds connected together in picture of terminal block are looped between a live feed and the switch?
*The black sleeved red, is the switch live from the switch?
*The black unsleeved, is neutral?
*And when you connect the light you put the blue conductor to the black and brown conductor to the black sleeved red?
Have you also checked that the bare conductor ends are all making good contact within the terminal strips and there is no plastic insulation trapped by the grub screws?
Gus, your posts are a nightmare to read.
But from what I can make out, the perm live (two reds together) is live... and the switched live (black sleeved with red) is live.
So you need to check if there is a neutral (which is the black on it's own) present. It could be possible the neutral has a break.
However, you need a voltage tester (as already said) to see if you get around 230 v between the perm live and the neutral.
If you get 230 v there, you need to test between the switched live (turn on the light switch) and the neutral, again you need around 230 v.
These tests are live tests, work safely. If in any doubt, get professional help.
But from what I can make out, the perm live (two reds together) is live... and the switched live (black sleeved with red) is live.
So you need to check if there is a neutral (which is the black on it's own) present. It could be possible the neutral has a break.
However, you need a voltage tester (as already said) to see if you get around 230 v between the perm live and the neutral.
If you get 230 v there, you need to test between the switched live (turn on the light switch) and the neutral, again you need around 230 v.
These tests are live tests, work safely. If in any doubt, get professional help.
Also you will need to test between live and earth, live and neutral, to confirm polarity. Your fitting may require an earth so you must be sure you have continuity of that core.
Its not a halogen floodlight is it? Those bulbs (the long straight ones) are easy to not locate properly between their terminals, even though it looks like its properly seated. Also if it worked 3 days initially, did you handle the bulb, then its blown in 3 days (they say to not touch the bulb, the grease from your fingers contaminates the surface and it overheats or something, blowing the bulb soon after).
I did ask the question previously, and seems by the reply that 3 working lamps have been used and checked for positioning 10 times.
Another point, in the 4 pics you've uploaded 2 of them are diagrams of how to connect a junction box, not your own actual connections within a junction box. Can you upload an actual pic of your own junction box connections?
hi thanks for all the input . sorry about the grammar. New info : live feed comes from ring main socket .(1)checked with a proper circuit tester ring main live to earth =live (2) switch live to earth =live (3) switch hot live to earth =live (4)outside terminal two reds to earth =live(5)switch hot live to earth =live(6) lamp light live to switch hot live(7)lamp light negative to earth terminal =B I N G O , IS THIS SAFE gus 1000 thanks
K
knowall
Run ! 
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