Outside PIR spotlight

[Chin85]

Hi all

I had a decent LED spotlight fitted about a year ago with a PIR sensor. Works lovely.

Is it possible to add a switch to something like this so that i have the option of having the light on permanently if needed i.e outside entertaining? and then have it revert back to being on the sensor at other times?

thanks
James

 

[ban-all-sheds]

Is the PIR completely integrated into the light in one housing, or is there a cable between them? If there is you could wire a switch into it.

Does it have an isolation switch inside? (Ideally it should so that you can isolate it if water gets in and causes RCD tripping). If it does, have you tried the quick ON-OFF-ON technique? On many lights that causes permanent on.

But ATEOTD, LED spotlights aren't very pleasant for outside entertainment - maybe you could consider installing something a little less prison camp guard tower like.

 

[Chin85]

thanks - unfortunately i don't have a switch inside so wouldnt have a clue how to turn it off anyway

but i guess i agree with your view that it is a bit prison like having a big LED spotlight shining on people so will explore other options for outside power!

 

[JohnW2]

Does your spotlight have replaceable mains voltage LED bulbs/lamps? If not, and given that you can't use the "ON-OFF-ON" technique (even if it would work), I don't think that you would be able to do what you want. Do you know the make and model of the spotlight?

Kind Regards, John

 

[Chin85]

cheers John

details of the light here;

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Professional-Security-Floodlight-Anti-Creep-Motion/dp/B01H5JWN0S

 

[JohnW2]

cheers John details of the light here;

Thanks. That's clearly not a replaceable lamp/bulb, so I fear that what I said before stands!

Kind Regards, John

 

[ban-all-sheds]

What's the relevance of replaceable bulbs?

 

[FrodoOne]

details of the light here;

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Professional-Security-Floodlight-Anti-Creep-Motion/dp/B01H5JWN0S

Oh dear.
The problem is that you have fitted a "lamp" with an integrated Passive Infra Red (PIR) control device.
That device, if switched ON, will turn the "lamp" ON when the light levels which it senses falls below a certain value.

What you should have done is to have fitted a seperate PIR sensor to control a lamp of whatever construction you desired.
Many of these seperate PIR sensors have a possibility of an "override" to permanently stay ON by turning them ON and then turning them OFF and ON again within a brief period - like 5 seconds.

Even if this facility is not available with any particular PIR, it is possible (with one additional switch and one additional wire to the "output" of the PIR) to provide a permanently ON override of the PIR concerned.

To keep what you have invested, remove and "short circuit" the connections from the PIR controlling the Lamp.
Then, install a suitable PIR - with "override", as mentioned above - to control just the Lamp

 

[JohnW2]

If an LED PIR does not have replaceable mains voltage 'bulbs', it is unlikely that the PIR switches 230V. It would be daft to convert the 230V to DC ELV to run the PIR electronics, use that to switch 230V (with a relay or triac) and then convert that switched 230V to ELV to power the LED. The only exception would be if one wanted a switched 230V output to power other lights, but I have yet to see an PIR-controlled LED light that offers that (whereas many/most designed for replaceable 230V bulbs did).

 

[PhillCO2]

I bought one of these recently, https://www.screwfix.com/p/lap-slimline-led-pir-floodlight-black-30w-cool-white/5625v, the documentation for that details a manual override mode which involves switching off the supply for a few seconds and then switching back on at which point the lamp will remain on until the supply is cycled again.

Depends on the manufacturer as to whether an override function is included but the instructions should tell you either way

From mine:

PIR Override: You can disable the PIR allowing the light to remain on permanently and switch back to PIR operation when required: • Disable PIR - Switch the mains power OFF for 2-3 seconds then ON again, the PIR is disabled and the light will stay on. Note: When following the Disable PIR steps ensure you switch OFF and ON within 5 seconds, if over 5 seconds the PIR will not be disabled. • Enable PIR - Switch the mains power OFF for 2-3 seconds then ON again, the light will turn on as set on the time adjustment and will turn off.

-Phill

 

[JohnW2]

.... the documentation for that details a manual override mode which involves switching off the supply for a few seconds and then switching back on at which point the lamp will remain on until the supply is cycled again.l

That (which is a very common feature of PIR lights) was mentioned right at the start. However, the OP indicated that he is not aware of any switch controlling his PIR light, so cannot even try that with his one!

Kind Regards, John

 

[PhillCO2]

That (which is a very common feature of PIR lights) was mentioned right at the start. However, the OP indicated that he is not aware of any switch controlling his PIR light, so cannot even try that with his one!

Kind Regards, John

I hadn't quite caught that in the flow of conversation, but given that any electrical device should always have a means of control and safe disconnection from the supply perhaps that should be the first port of call for the OP. That would then provide this option, if supported as you stated.

 

[JohnW2]

... given that any electrical device should always have a means of control and safe disconnection from the supply perhaps that should be the first port of call for the OP. That would then provide this option, if supported as you stated.

I can't really disagree with that. In particular, an outdoor light really needs a means of DP isolation, since they have a habit of filling up with water and tripping RCDs!

Kind Regards, John

 

[PhillCO2]

I can't really disagree with that. In particular, an outdoor light really needs a means of DP isolation, since they have a habit of filling up with water and tripping RCDs!

Kind Regards, John

My background is marine electrics so naturally we double pole everything on account most supplies being drawn from 3-phase insulated neutral and having no neutral conductor. Hadn't really thought about it in domestic but yeah DP the outside lamp switch would certainly make segregation for earth fault tracing easier.

 

[JohnW2]

Hadn't really thought about it in domestic but yeah DP the outside lamp switch would certainly make segregation for earth fault tracing easier.

It's not just about fault tracing (although it obviously helps that). If water ingress results in a neutral-earth leak/fault, it may trip an RCD, potentially killing several circuits in the house until the fault is remedied, even if the item is 'off' in terms of SP switching. The ability to DP isolate the culprit item means that one can then deal with the problem at one's leisure, rather than having to rush about to get the fault fixed before one can have one's heating, cooker, TV or whatever! That really applies to any outdoor electrics.

Kind Regards, John