Oven and hob question ?

[sean24776]

Hi,

I am currently installing a new kitchen and have purchased an integrated double oven and a ceramic hob my question is this, both appliances need to be wired direct to the old cooker main can i run both units off of the same point the hob is 230v - 50hz 5.kw and the double oven is 220-240v 50hz 4.8kw

Thanks in advance for you help,

KR

Sean

 

[Taylortwocities]

Untitled

• Taylortwocities
• 17 Apr 2008
• 30

You have forgotten some vital information. Your cooker circuit, what size of fuse is there on the circuit and what size of cable is connected?
We first of all need to find out if the circuit is big enough for your new appliances.

Also, how does the cooker circuit end up, is it a termination box and connection point in the wall?

 

[plugwash]

We need to know at least

1: what is the current cable size and protective device for your cooker circuit?
2: what if anything do the manufacturers instructions for the oven and hob say about acceptable protective device ratings?

 

[ban-all-sheds]

I am currently installing a new kitchen

Does that involve any notifiable electrical work?

 

[sean24776]

I have not touched any of the other electrics so hopefully I have done nothing wrong, currently there is a 10mm cable running from the fuse box to a cooker point in the kitchen, the cooker point also has a 13 amp plug on it, from there another 10mm cable runs to a seperate point where the old cooker was wired to, there is a 32amp fuse/breaker in the fuse box, does that help at all ?

 

[sean24776]

I should of said the cooker point has a 13 amp plug hole on it.....

 

[SaladFingers]

I am currently installing a new kitchen

Does that involve any notifiable electrical work?

Why? Don't worry yourself over that, that's not what he's asked. You're still a thorn in people's side which ever forum you're on.

 

[Taylortwocities]

OK. So you have a cooker isolation switch with an associated socket? Above the worktop?
And below the worktop you have a connection point. Is that correct?

If your fuse is 32amp I will expect that your cable is 6mm², not 10mm².

You will probaby be OK running both of those appliances, subject to the makers saying that a 32amp fuse is OK.

To connect two devices you'll need a dual appliance connector like http://www.alertelectrical.com/prod/1022/click-45a-easyfit-dual-appliance-outlet-plate

PS The addition of the socket on the cooker switch makes the loading very tight. Best to swop your cooker switch for one without a socket to avoid overloading.

 

[ericmark]

Likely as already said there will be no problem. However we don't have all the facts. In theory if your fuse/MCB is too small all it will do is trip however with built in appliances often they have cooling fans so lost of power could cause overheating so it does not pay to have it too small.

Some diversity can be allowed for it is unlikely you will ever have every ring and oven on flat out for more than few seconds.

Different manufactures have different requirements as to fuse/MCB size often dictated by the terminal sizes and what cable can be used. With a 32A supply all cable must be able to take 32A even to the oven which should normally draw far less. This is to allow for fault conditions so fuse/MCB will open rather than cause a fire.

Although likely no problem to say yes go ahead when we are guessing is wrong. Ban all sheds may seem to go OTT at times but he does have a point. There are many tests as electricians we make without really thinking about what we have done from loop impedance to RCD trip time all which the DIY guy is unlikely to be able to do as he will not have the test instruments.

So you must ask yourself is it really worth doing as DIY when likely the charge made will be so little anyway. And then not only will you get the paperwork minor works and completion certificates and comply with Part P but you will know it is safe.

 

[ebee]

Purely on the position of total draw of the appliances and nothing else.
A traditional 6mm 32A circuit can take a 13KW Cooker .
Does the total of these appliances greatly exceed this figure? No.
Is there any reason to expect that because it is two appliances rather than one that the usual loading is any more onerous than one such appliance? probably not.

The reason that you`r allowed so many KWs on a cooker as opposed to what you`d run on say a shower is diversity - ie you are not running all of the load at once.

It is usually OK to consider diversity on a cooker (or arguably two appliances being used similar to one cooker) as
The first 10 amps plus 30% of the remainder plus 5amp for a socket if fitted (intended for occasional use of a kettle).

Of course, if you consider the two appliances might exceed the equivalent current than using one appliance then you would rethink.