part p - consumer unit. tails, rcd help

sorry desl, it looks like a cash job no receipt no cert i cant understand why an niceic elec would do a job like this knowing it could be inspected.
 
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sorry desl, it looks like a cash job no receipt no cert i cant understand why an niceic elec would do a job like this knowing it could be inspected.

Whatever - it's a dog's breakfast of an install
 
3. Alot of the wiring above and around was there before. He stated that he wasn't here to rewire the house ......

When he changed the CU he was obliged to complete an electrical installation certificate. You cant complete these forms with failures - so he should have put right all faults that he found apparent when changing the CU, such as access to live parts (entry holes in CU) undersized Earthing conductor, RCD missing from socket outlets etc, etc. Yes, this is extra to the CU change but he should have made the customer aware of this. This is why I would always give an estimate, and make it clear that circuit/ cabling/bonding/etc failures identified during inspection and testing PRIOR to the CU change will be charged extra to rectify. Its also why I spend up to an hour or more looking at the existing wiring in and around the CU, checking bonding, removing sockets, roses and the like before giving an estimate.

As for the tails being wrong size and too short what was wrong with fitting new tails long enough to go to meter but making a temporary connection via Henly block until supply company can connect new tails to meter.

Why use a henly, whats wrong with having tails larger than the supply conductors ?



Not that I wouldn't upgrade the tails to 25mm, but consider the following:

IF the main fuse is 60A and IF the tails are installed clipped direct or otherwise ref. method 1 then according to regs 10mm pvc cables have a current carrying capacity of above 60A and therefore theoretically adequate.
 
if it was my companies job we would have installed a split-board and i dont really understand why he didnt.

It looks like a split load board - just not wired or populated as one
All MK enclosures beyond a certain size come with two neutral bars to allow them to be used as a split load if desired (the largest size comes with three).
 
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Are you absolutely sure this was done by a qualified electrician?? Shocking!! It is an absolute mess. Top of CU to IP4X? (No holes larger than 1mm in diameter). I think has been pointed out, single insulated cores, incorrect size Main CPC, no RCD, detremental effect from heat from boiler pipes / drain point. Also failure to correctly identify circuits - the earths are not in the correct numbered terminals, nor are the neutrals. Sorry, I find it very hard to believe this was done by a qualified electrician.
 
Take him to the tower and off with his head.
I`ve seen NIC approved contractors work just like this over the years.
 
Has anyone else noticed that the JB in the top right looks to have a new incoming 2.5mm^2 from the CU, with two outgoing 2.5mm^2 T+E which (presumably) feed a ring final. That's potentially 32A through a length of 2.5mm.

Have to agree the whole job is shoddy. I wouldn't think twice about reporting the guy and seeking my money back. Even if the installation was in such a mess before the new CU was fitted, any electrician worth his salt would have tidied things up here.
 
Hi all,

Wow! Thanks for all the comments and feedback. I am trying to get someone else in (who knows what they are doing ???) to tell me what's wrong and what they would charge to put it right.

I will speak to this guy and give him all the feedback you have given and tell him that either he puts it right or I get some of my money back for the job on CU and get someone else to do it.

Only problem is how to get someoen as I thought this guy would know what he was doing based on quals, experience etc.

I know this is not the purpose of the forum and may get in trouble but if anyone is can suggest competent person in Birmingham/walsall area then let me know. Sorry to moderators if this is breaking rules but how do get someone if this guy was a) highly recommended by friends and b) has quals experience already?!
 
by the way, just thought I would check... has anyone got objections to me printing off this thread and showing it to him? Kind of helps when I know nothing about electrics.
 
One more question. Everyone keeps saying this is a mess. Agreed wiring is a mess aroundthe board, but does that also include the way the wiring has been done inside?
 
It is untidy, yeah. Are all of the L, N and E circuit conductors terminated in the correct numbered terminals? It doesn't look like it to me.
 
Thanks agian everyone for the fantastic help and support! I am going to get another qualified electrician to look at it and quote what he/she would charge for the correcting job and then try and negotiate the price off the job as he did do some things right! (kitchen sockets I hope?).

As I previously stated, I am not an unreasonale chap and hopefully he won't be as there are enough questions posed by your responses to throw doubt into the minds of a honest person.

fingers crossed. I will let you know how I got on.
 
Birmingam way? Thats QEDs stomping ground aint it? If I speak to him all all I'll point him your way!
 
Spot the difference :rolleyes:


CUs.jpg



If I were in your position I'd Click Here


Oh, and did you remove the busbar sheild? :eek:


<edit> I think I've just found his toolbox

JDcase.jpg
 

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