permanent rad removal -pipe in concrete floor

[600rob]

I want to permanently remove a radiator and cap off the pipe work below floor level so it is no longer visible when I put in a new floor.

The rad is on 10mm micro bore pipe set in a concrete floor

Is it just a case of digging out the floor around the pipes, cutting the pipes back below floor level, fitting some blank caps, add insulation, refill and test for leaks, back fill with screed

The only things i wanted to find out were:

- What depth should i cut back the pipe work to below floor level

- Should i use compression blank caps or soldered ones?

Thanks

 

[John D v2.0]

The problem would be bleeding the air out of the branches. If possible cut off where they branch from the main system.

 

[600rob]

All of the ground floor rads are on pipe work that is set under the concreted floor.

I beleive there is one or more drop feeds somwhere but ive not been able to locate them behind the existing walls.

Could it mean digging up the floor in a much larger area / possibly into the other rooms to trace the pipe work back to the branch?

 

[600rob]

on second thoughts as an alternative option, what if i wanted to keep the rad and move it to a different location??

would that be a case of chasing the floor out re routing the pipe work, insulating, checking for leaks, then back fill with screed

Im happy+have the tools to dig up the floor but could do with some pointers on the following:

- pipe size - stick with 10mm or increase to 15mm using adapters?
-what pipe material to use? plastic/copper etc?
- best joints/fittings to use-soldered or push fit
- what chase depth would i need to go down to?

 

[ABC Gas Care]

I would never use push fit if in concrete if fails its a bitch job and half time hard to find , good soldered job every time make sure clean after , flux eats pipes . and make sure 100% of pipe is protected because cement is corrosive and and copper also starts to corrode in contact with earth forgot exact details but take from me it can eat through pipe .
so pipe size if its piped correctly and the radiator is getting hot OK now carry on with 10 mm but if not great then up to 15mm .
I would put cleaner in system flush it if water is black or dirty and while your at it put a filter on system if not one on Magnaclean best £80 to £90 you ever spend .
After you finish the job inhibitor two lots DO not put in unless its water tight dont concrete in unless tested its water tight how will you see if its leaking if its under concrete.
Depth how deep is it now say min 2 inch but deeper better . if cutting with grinder I norm get spray bottle to reduce dust still makes mess but not ever wear ,
If running good distance you can buy plastic coated pipe that's good best practice but if not quality gaffer tape tight and NO GAPS to make contact with cement , if concrete damp it will make a contact & electrical contact uses it as a like sacrificial anode & rot pipe so presume no issues forget that .
probably more but cant think min . if down stairs presume it is are valves on rads OK don't put old back on and 100% put drain off valve on one end less than fiver .