petrol chain saws

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as chain oil is very expensive , is it true you can use vegetable oil instead

any other suggestions ............... :?:
 
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You can use any oil as long as it's not too thick to pump through the bar. Worst case; one on my chain saws “auto lube” system refuses to work so I just squirt the bar from an oil can every 5 minutes or so. Buying chain saw is a bit like buying an ink jet printer; they sell you the hardware for next to nothing & then charge you a fortune for the ink; or, in this case chainsaw oil!
 
Most chainsaw oil IS vegetable oil. Buying in 25l tubs keeps the costs down, you'll probably need an arb supplier or garden machinery specialist though.
 
I think you'll find bar/chain oil isn't just vegetable oil. Also it's very sticky with anti-fling qualities so that it doesn't just fly off the chain due to centifugal force.
 
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I think you'll find bar/chain oil isn't just vegetable oil. Also it's very sticky with so that it doesn't just fly off the chain due to centifugal force.
Sticky oil I can sort of understand but, sorry m8, I can’t quiet get my head around oil that has “anti-fling” qualities; can you enlighten me?

Probably the only reason chain saw oil is "vegetable" grade is its low grade, very cheap & keeps the bio degradable grenies happy! :rolleyes: :LOL:
 
Its very similar to the oil thats used on motorbike chains....contains a solvent that flashes off when exposed to air and becomes like a sticky grease.
If you think about it, all oils are degradable with time - hydrocarbons and all that. Pity the timber fellers don't take the plastic drums home though! :p
John :)
 
It's sticky and anti-fling so that when the chain goes round the sprocket at the end of the bar, it doesn't get flung off the chain. That way it stays on the chain and bar for longer.
It's not cheap oil either. Most of it it semi or fully synthetic oil.
 
Several types of oil are available, some are fully biodegradable more, 'organic' than the others, and are preferred by the 'treehugger' arbs. They do tend to fling more though.
 
Try a company that repairs things like compressors or submersible pumps.
We get our oils from such a company and their prices are quite reasonable.
They may even de-cant it to 5ltr bottles for you.
 
For the sake of a few quid, just buy the proper product.

Surely that's worth it for peace of mind?
 
The bulk ingredient of the majority of oils is rapeseed, some swear by using it neat as it's cheaper, others wouldn't touch it. All comes down to personal pref at the end of the day.
 
From someone who used them every day for the best part of a decade as part of a felling team about 20 years ago.

Yes, proper stuff is anti fling. Yes it's expensive.

As with many trades, the professionals are mixed in their approach to "the proper stuff". Many buy the proper stuff, and our ganger had a 45g drum of chainsaw oil - but many people used cheap engine oil, including one old chap that used to filter used engine oil through his wife's tights. Apart from a black chaincase, it didn't seem to cause any problems. Although the worm gear in the drive is often plastic so any metal scraps might cause wear, it wasn't noticable.

Would veggie oil work? Sure. Would it cause problems? Unlikely imo - maybe in heavy logging it wouldn't cool as much as a mineral or more viscous oil. The oil is used very briefly in most uses. In heavy use the pump output blocks and your chain goes dry quickly, but if you're familiar with your tool you'll notice the visual difference, the sound and the ability to cut all change very quickly as it dried out and heats up. For the occasional chainsawing I do now, I use engine oil - although it's obviously not as eco.
 
thanks for all your feedback..

I only use it to cut firewood so will go for the cheaper oil

cheers
 
I'm only going parachuting once, so I'll buy a really cheap one.
 
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