This is all depending on the door fitted to your tool shed ! A picture of the outside and inside of the door would give a yes or no
PIR in Tool Shed
- Thread starter Jupiter01
- Start date
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There will be loads of movement in that type of door , standard contacts no chance , heavy duty With large operating gap MAY work if back of door has packer/ support fitted to top of door and door tested to see how far it can be pulled open when locked !
how about this fitted on the side of the door that has the hinges? I am assuming that there will be less movement here.
https://www.citysecuritysystems.co.uk/cqr-gp001-ab-g2-door-contact
https://www.citysecuritysystems.co.uk/cqr-gp001-ab-g2-door-contact
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look at what you are buying, each contact has its own gap tolerance, but be aware taking a shed roof off wont activate the door contact.
don't know how big your shed is or how sturdy it is.
in general small sheds no point of a pir usually as the contents are usually covering the sensors, larger sheds or outbuildings then the DT would be my preferred option with a contact on the door if flimsy and a shock if its sturdy.
If the outbuilding or shed is spotless and some I see are than you can get away with a normal PIR, but I would still opt for a DT just in case its spotless to impress short term.
don't know how big your shed is or how sturdy it is.
in general small sheds no point of a pir usually as the contents are usually covering the sensors, larger sheds or outbuildings then the DT would be my preferred option with a contact on the door if flimsy and a shock if its sturdy.
If the outbuilding or shed is spotless and some I see are than you can get away with a normal PIR, but I would still opt for a DT just in case its spotless to impress short term.
with sparkymarka on checking the tolerance.
hinge side no good to be honest
hinge side no good to be honest
As the guys have said, a good quality dual tech detector is going to give you the best protection with no issues providing that it is adjusted and sited as per the manufacturer's instructions. If you want absolute belts and braces, then a Pyronix TMD set to "tricover" mode will do the job.
why?
I suggested this as I am certain that there will be minimal movement here and talking to the manufacturer of the heavy duty door contact, they reckon it can cope with up to 30mm. I am not adverse to the DT but Texecom have told me categorically that a spider will trigger the DT PIR.
Double doors can be protected by a break beam sensor ( narrow beam ) with the TX on one door and RX on the other door.
Moving the door with the TX will mean the beam is no longer pointing at the receiver..
Moving the door with the RX will mean the receiver is no longer looking at the transmitter
Moving the door with the TX will mean the beam is no longer pointing at the receiver..
Moving the door with the RX will mean the receiver is no longer looking at the transmitter
Jupiter01.
The answer to why, its not the best practice to put them there, if the operational gap of reed is 30 mm, then the door when locked needs to move less than 30mm, when the door is opened for use properly the gap needs to be greater than 30mm for it to activate.
don't forget they don't need to open the door all the way to get in so the balance looking for optimals, which in this case:-
must activate when door is open the bare minimum to get in and out but wont activate when the wind is pulling door backwards and forwards.
The TMD15 or something like isn't a bad idea, but if the spider goes across the two lenses quickly it could still activate but is less likely than a single lens. In fact you could place two cheaper detectors above and below and wire the alarm output in parallel so that both sensors have to be active at the same time, which means the spider has probably less than fractions of a second to get across both lenses before activating, but it larger animals/ humans would break both pir beams at the same time giving you an activation. Don't have two DT's close together mind as they will interfere with each other.
The answer to why, its not the best practice to put them there, if the operational gap of reed is 30 mm, then the door when locked needs to move less than 30mm, when the door is opened for use properly the gap needs to be greater than 30mm for it to activate.
don't forget they don't need to open the door all the way to get in so the balance looking for optimals, which in this case:-
must activate when door is open the bare minimum to get in and out but wont activate when the wind is pulling door backwards and forwards.
The TMD15 or something like isn't a bad idea, but if the spider goes across the two lenses quickly it could still activate but is less likely than a single lens. In fact you could place two cheaper detectors above and below and wire the alarm output in parallel so that both sensors have to be active at the same time, which means the spider has probably less than fractions of a second to get across both lenses before activating, but it larger animals/ humans would break both pir beams at the same time giving you an activation. Don't have two DT's close together mind as they will interfere with each other.
what would I do as an installer, I would almost certainly put in a DT but I would base it on the facts as I see them when I do the survey. If the place was full of cob webs, your shed didn't look that bad, haven't seen sparkymarka's shed but maybe not on that one
Are not ALL PiR optics these days sealed from spiders?
Spiders, the same as ('mice', but that is only if they chew the cables) do not cause false activations.
They used to get inside and cause activations but that dropped considerably when PiRs were 'sealed' both by the manufacturer and the alarm companies first blocking holes with blu-tac etc
Spider is the stock reason given by an engineer for that false activation for which he can not find a legitmate reason.
Spiders, the same as ('mice', but that is only if they chew the cables) do not cause false activations.
They used to get inside and cause activations but that dropped considerably when PiRs were 'sealed' both by the manufacturer and the alarm companies first blocking holes with blu-tac etc
Spider is the stock reason given by an engineer for that false activation for which he can not find a legitmate reason.
Ok, you fit the contact to the hinge side, give me your address then I'll visit and tell you who is correct.
Bet I could get in with it fitted there.
With these doors you either have to fit one contact to each door OR contact to one and magnet to the other.
An alarm company would fit one to each.
Bet I could get in with it fitted there.
With these doors you either have to fit one contact to each door OR contact to one and magnet to the other.
An alarm company would fit one to each.
It amazes me how some people will spend several thousands of pounds on equipment and then begrudge the cost of a reliable alarm system to reduce the risk of their equipment being stolen.
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