Plugging the Oven In.

10mm. (It's a 10.5KW Oven)
Yes.
RCD is required. As you can see from the 4th pic, there's a 13A socket attached to the CCU.
I take you mean the cooker switch - not sure what that has to do with an RCD.
The cable you have shown is neither heat resistant nor is it 10mm ² .
The Cooker Connection unit appears to be that single gang space half way down your wall.

Honestly it seems like you're asking questions to be obtuse rather than attempting to help. You can see from the provided pictures and information in the OP the answers to all the questions you asked.
Unfortunately the answers or non answers you are giving to the questions raised really do make me think that you do not know what you are doing.
Your perceptions about cable sizes, cable types and RCD's leads me to believe that it would be dangerous to 'encourage' you to do this work yourself.
My advice is to get someone in who knows what they are doing.
BTW not the gas man - no support bracket no isolation switch and most gas engineers I know would not fit flexible gas pipes.

How do I test the circuit dead?
You would use an appropriate multi meter
 
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10mm. (It's a 10.5KW Oven)
Yes.
RCD is required. As you can see from the 4th pic, there's a 13A socket attached to the CCU.
I take you mean the cooker switch - not sure what that has to do with an RCD.
The cable you have shown is neither heat resistant nor is it 10mm ² .
The Cooker Connection unit appears to be that single gang space half way down your wall.

Honestly it seems like you're asking questions to be obtuse rather than attempting to help. You can see from the provided pictures and information in the OP the answers to all the questions you asked.
Unfortunately the answers or non answers you are giving to the questions raised really do make me think that you do not know what you are doing.
Your perceptions about cable sizes, cable types and RCD's leads me to believe that it would be dangerous to 'encourage' you to do this work yourself.
My advice is to get someone in who knows what they are doing.
BTW not the gas man - no support bracket no isolation switch and most gas engineers I know would not fit flexible gas pipes.

How do I test the circuit dead?
You would use an appropriate multi meter

Ye sorry for the earlier quip. Think you may be right about the electrician part if the provided cable is no good.

From reading, you only need an RCD when there's no other sockets (//www.diynot.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=49855)

Should I get onto the company about that gas installation, or will it be ok? (notice the later picture with the incoming bracket unscrewed)
 
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10mm. (It's a 10.5KW Oven)
It's a 10.5kW electric oven in a 60cm wide cooker? I think not.
Perhaps I misread. Says 10kw, but may include gas.
I think it must either include the gas (which is a bit bizarre) or else something else is very wrong - the Cannon C60DHKF appears to have a 2.0 kW element, a 2.4 kW element and a gas hob. That sounds like about 4.5 kW worth of electricity to me (which, if so, certainly didn't ought to need 10mm² cable - unless the manufacturers so specify!).

Kind Regards, John
 

Ps that gas pipe may get in the way of the oven and could be damaged by its presence.


Would it be ok/legal/sensible to chain the gas pipe up myself, or should I call the gas company again?
[/quote][/quote]

Call the "gas company" and ask for your cash back. The bracket should be fixed to the wall, and is in the wrong position. You DO require a chain, regardless of any ones thoughts on the sense of the regs, Is the white tap standard PTFE or gas special?

The bracket used may not be suitable, in that when in the right position it may impinge on the cooker
Did the fitter show his card with the required competence on the reverse>
 

Ps that gas pipe may get in the way of the oven and could be damaged by its presence.


Would it be ok/legal/sensible to chain the gas pipe up myself, or should I call the gas company again?


Call the "gas company" and ask for your cash back. The bracket should be fixed to the wall, and is in the wrong position. You DO require a chain, regardless of any ones thoughts on the sense of the regs, Is the white tap standard PTFE or gas special?

The bracket used may not be suitable, in that when in the right position it may impinge on the cooker
Did the fitter show his card with the required competence on the reverse>

The apartment is in a housing association block, part bought by me, part owned by them. They are responsible for external repairs etc etc. I called them, they booked their 'gas company' for a job, who called me directly to organise it. The bracket was already there, assumedly fitted by the same company the housing association contract to.

I have no idea what kind of gas tap it is, only that the 'standard' fitting on the cannon cooker didn't fit it. There seems to be no tape on it.
 
RCD is required. As you can see from the 4th pic, there's a 13A socket attached to the CCU.
I take you mean the cooker switch - not sure what that has to do with an RCD.
I presume his point was that (assuming this is 'new') the presence of the socket on the circuit would mean that an RCD would be required, even if the cooker's MI did not call for an RCD.

Kind Regards, John
 
For your own safety I would get another gas installer in to connect the gas properly as well. Not only should the wall plate elbow be fixed to the wall it is in completely the wrong place. The bayonet fitting should be sited so that the hose hangs down in a u shape with no stress or strain on the hose. The cooker instructions will often gice a specific area for fitting the bayonet connection. With it sticking out like that you may also find it difficult to push the cooker right back. The bit about not needing a safety chain is also nonsense as well. All free standing cooker installations require either a stability bracket (preferred method) or a safety chain. If this is the guy recommended by the HA complain to them as this installation is in breach of the gas safety regulations.
 

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