Potterton Netaheat 10-16 that keeps blowing 1 amp fuse

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I just returned from holiday and my Potterton netaheat 10-16 boiler keeps blowing its 1A fuse. Is anyone aware of what may be blowing it, i.e. any usual fuse blowing items, or could tell me where I could find a circuit diagram for it.

It blows once the relay kicks in so I was thinking valve, relay, or fan.

Any clues?
 
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BigHammo said:
I just returned from holiday and my Potterton netaheat 10-16 boiler keeps blowing its 1A fuse. Is anyone aware of what may be blowing it, i.e. any usual fuse blowing items, or could tell me where I could find a circuit diagram for it.

It blows once the relay kicks in so I was thinking valve, relay, or fan.

Any clues?

try checking the resistance on the pump i will bet 99% thats your problem
 
I'm not a plumber (so I may be talking rubbish), but if it were me I'd place a multimeter in series with the fuse set on 10 amps (ammeter) and then bring in respective components (fan, pump etc). When the draw rises towards 1 amp - you'll have your culprit.



joe
 
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Put me down for a tenner too. This is going to cost you £40 B.O.B. (if I've understood the odds correctly). Are you still so sure?
 
My main pump still operates even with the fuse gone, so I don't thonk it is that.

My heating is a Y plan and I can't see on the schematic how the pump is fed off the 1 amp fuse.

I will have a detailed look tomorrow and let you know who takes the money

Hammo. :D
 
BigHammo said:
My main pump still operates even with the fuse gone, so I don't thonk it is that.

Looks like i am stuffed.................
 
Looks like the fan as it only has a resistance of 28 ohms, which means a possible 8.5 amp. Should blow the 1 amp fuse. so gordongas was the 1st but joe-90 did indicate that it could be the fan.

I'd go for Gordongas a he did say outright that it would be the fan.
 
28 ohms is the resistance of the windings but elec motors also have ac inductive resistance which only works when the motor is on, giving a higher resistance,

still might be the fan motor though as have had them test ok at rest and blow when on. Turn gas of, disconnnect fan, turn on make aps see if gas valve opens and ignition sequence starts Corgi job only
 
Stick a nail in it with a snide comment of "blow that you basted", might cause some other expensive little problems though
 

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