Hello.
I have an issue with my potterton profile boiler - gravity system (not combi).
I better give some history about this.
about 9 months ago, the boiler packed up. I ended up changing the PCB - the circuit board with a refurbished one from the local merchant. Gave him my PCB and he gave me a working tested one. Cost me about £30.
This was following the advice of a corgi engineer i had called to check the system. He also mentioned one of the zone valves was stuck.
I decided to change the pump, and 2 new zone valves. Put in the replacement PCB, boiler fired but just for a short while. Called the engineer again, he brought ANOTHER PCB and then it worked fine - lesson is that refurbishd PCB's can go dead again!
Now recently the radiators were not heating up properly, with cold patches in the middle. this happened to only 2 of the 5 radiators in the flat.
After reading the forums, it was time to flush the system. I removed the 2 radiators and manually flushed using a hose, quite a bit of greasy black water came out.
put the Rads back, and filled the system with Sentinel X400, and filled up the system again. bled all rads and fired up the boiler
this is where the problem starts. The boiler will run for 20 mins on setting 2-3 (a knob on the boiler), and shut down , then after another 20 mins, it will start up again.
the same engineer who came before advised me to check for air lock and the pump. checked the pump, it spins fine- opened nut and put screwdriver in. there was no air escaping from the pump when i did this. Bled the rads but no air. Thermostat is set to maximum and i checked by opening it, the contacts touch.
Im a bit puzzled about this. Does this mean a boilerdoes not run constantly when switched to ON? I did notice on the central heating tank that the water is warm, hot water comes into the tank via overflow.
any recommendations?
I have an issue with my potterton profile boiler - gravity system (not combi).
I better give some history about this.
about 9 months ago, the boiler packed up. I ended up changing the PCB - the circuit board with a refurbished one from the local merchant. Gave him my PCB and he gave me a working tested one. Cost me about £30.
This was following the advice of a corgi engineer i had called to check the system. He also mentioned one of the zone valves was stuck.
I decided to change the pump, and 2 new zone valves. Put in the replacement PCB, boiler fired but just for a short while. Called the engineer again, he brought ANOTHER PCB and then it worked fine - lesson is that refurbishd PCB's can go dead again!
Now recently the radiators were not heating up properly, with cold patches in the middle. this happened to only 2 of the 5 radiators in the flat.
After reading the forums, it was time to flush the system. I removed the 2 radiators and manually flushed using a hose, quite a bit of greasy black water came out.
put the Rads back, and filled the system with Sentinel X400, and filled up the system again. bled all rads and fired up the boiler
this is where the problem starts. The boiler will run for 20 mins on setting 2-3 (a knob on the boiler), and shut down , then after another 20 mins, it will start up again.
the same engineer who came before advised me to check for air lock and the pump. checked the pump, it spins fine- opened nut and put screwdriver in. there was no air escaping from the pump when i did this. Bled the rads but no air. Thermostat is set to maximum and i checked by opening it, the contacts touch.
Im a bit puzzled about this. Does this mean a boilerdoes not run constantly when switched to ON? I did notice on the central heating tank that the water is warm, hot water comes into the tank via overflow.
any recommendations?