Potterton Puma 80e Full Sequence Board & Gas Valve

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Hi everyone. I've used this forum a lot in the past but this is the first time I've posted.

I have a Potterton Puma 80e which broke down at the weekend. Called a plumber recommended by a friend who diagnosed that the Full Sequence Board had gone. Replaced board & replacement board immediately blew. Plumber blamed the gas valve and recommends a new boiler.

Now a few questions:

- Can the gas valve on these just instantly fry the Full Sequence Board? Seems a pretty rubbish design.

- Is the plumber at fault here? I'm down the cost of the fried board and his labour, with nothing to show for it.

- Would you replace this boiler or persevere with it?

Thanks loads for any help. This forum is invaluable.
 
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Various things could fry the full sequence board. If it has fried it may have been advisable to test components and have a look round the boiler for possible issues before putting a new board straight on.
 
agree would test components first been caught out on an ideal isar put new board in and then pop fan had taken new board out ouch , you live and learn.
 
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You have paid the 'plumber'? :eek:

Seriously, get someone in who knows this boiler. They are as simple as any combi can be. The fuse issue is probably not gas related.
 
The most common thing on these is the auto air vent drips onto the top solenoid on the gas valve which blows the pcb! So if this is the case you only need a new solenoid and pcb! Oh and you might want to fix the leaking AAV ;)
 
I think the gas valve may still be powered by the main pcb even when it has the second ignition board.

Its a common problem that nupties dont test components.

Its his fault and you should not pay him anything! You called him to fix your boiler and not to charge you for his incompetence.

Tony
 
Thanks for the comments everyone. It seemed a bit dodgy to me to just instantly fry a brand new board. I've not paid him yet and I'll take it up with him.

Should I pack in the Puma or risk a bit more cash (with somebody more competent!) trying to save it?
 
If I was doing the repair and it needed a pcb and gas valve then I would probably charge about £300 but to keep it down would probably find a used gas valve.

They are quite reliable boilers if they are serviced regularly and quite repairable.

I even replaced the main heat exchanger on one a few months ago.

Tony
 
Now you're tempting me to keep it! I think the problem has been people who don't really know the model having a half-arsed go at it. But to be honest unless I can find somebody local who knows what they're doing to fix it, I'll have to scrap it. Thanks for the advice.
 
I had the exact same fault on this boiler a few years ago.

If you still have the original board then you might be able to salvage the new one.

There are two resistors on the sequence PCB for the gas valve.They are both the same type and sit raised off the board. I'm sure they're situated in the top left hand corner on the board.It's one of these resistors that has fried.

If you have a meter to test the resistors you can remove the good one from the old PCB and attach it in place of the fried one on the new board. You could attach it with a couple of 3 amp connectors if soldering isn't an option.This would be feasible due to the extended tails on the resistors.

The boiler was always going to need a new board and gas valve but this would save you or your RGI from buying a second board.
 
If the gas valve is faulty and blew the resistors on the new board then its expected they will be fsiled on the old board.

Thats why an inspection of the old board should have alerted the nupty of the valve fault!

Tony
 
Tony, when you say

Thats why an inspection of the old board should have alerted the nupty of the valve fault!

What does the inspection entail? Is it looking at the board or some other means to establish the problem?
 
The design uses a fusible resistor in series with the gas valve.

When thats blown its visually obvious.

Cheaper than a fuse and sells a new pcb!

Tony
 
I HAVE HAD THE POTTERTON PUMA PERM. PILOT SINCE [2004 AND ON AVERAGE SPENT ABOUT £80 PER ANNUM BY FOLLOWING THE FAULT FINDING CHART IN THE INSTALLATION LEAFLET BUT AM NOW FINDING THAT THE MAIN PROBLEM IS THE RELAY NO.2 0N THE MAIN BOARD WHICH I AM ASSUMING IS THE ONE WHICH CUTS TO THE BOILER TO FIRE UP THE HEATING, AND IT IS A PITY THAT THERE IS NO ONE WHO CAN TAKE OUT THE RELAY AND JUST REPLACE THE ONE COMPONENT, THIS COULD BE A MEANS OF KEEPING THE THING RUNNING WITHOUT THE EXPENSE OF A NEW BOARD EVERY TIME . DOES ANYONE KNOW OF A ELECTRONIC COMPANY THAT WOULD TAKE ON THIS TYPE OF REPAIR WHO WOULD BE ABLE TO CHECK A REPAIRED BOARD TO ENSURE IT WILL DO THE JOB AFTER THE REPLACED RELAY? THIS COULD BE A NEW OUTLET FOR POSSIBLY A BUILDER OF PERSONAL COMPUTERS??
 

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