Potterton Suprima 30 water working no heating help!

[fixitflav]

Which make and model valve are you referring to fixitflav ?

Either Honeywell V4044 (W-plan) or V4073 (Y-plan). Neither can block both outlet ports so does not need a microswitch to power the boiler. Maybe the one here is different, I don't recognise the actuator cover, but I'm just a DIY-er.

And what wiring system would it apertain to ,certainly not Y plan ??

W or Y-plan wiring as appropriate. Either allows the boiler to be powered from the roomstat. Difference is on W-plan the diverter valve is only energised, to give flow to the rads, when the cylinder stat is satisfied.

 

[nursek]

Just a couple more questions, in manual mode can I run the hot water at the same time as the heating? Do I keep it in manual mode or need to switch it back? Will the heating only work while the hot water tank is full? If so what do I do to trigger refilling the tank? Sorry for all the questions, it's a bit chilly this morning so I'm going to try the heating for first time.



@nursek we apologise that this thread has gone off the rails.
There's a FAQ here which may help
https://www.diynot.com/diy/threads/boiler-central-heating-faqs.175736/#post-1198061
post#10
( which is the same as what e.g. @terryplumb is saying)
The Make is different but it's a similar valve.
It's fairly unlikely to be W Plan as some have mentioned.

It certainly sounds like your Valve isn't working. If you can understand the FAQ you can get some heat and some hot water but it won't work perfectly.
No you can't damage anything but watch the HW temperature which may get high.

You probably need a new motor inside the valve if someone will change it.
Or a new Valve HEAD (dry ) which has to be the same make & compatible. That would be a good option because it would also replace some parts other than the motor, which could also possibly be the problem. The wet part of the valve can be checked.
Or a new Valve (complete thing) which can be any make. Your valve looks pretty old.

If you'd like to take it further, please come back or start a new thread
Mod

 

[terryplumb]

Heating will only work whilst hot water is being heated in the cylinder,and your programmer/ timer must be set for hot water.
If you no longer wish heating to be on ,release the manual lever on the valve.

 

[ianmcd]

Either Honeywell V4044 (W-plan) or V4073 (Y-plan). Neither can block both outlet ports so does not need a microswitch to power the boiler.

That isnt the way the valve works, the valve always tells the boiler when to fire, other controls tell the valve which position to move to, the valve actually has 2 x microswitches, unlike a 2 port valve which only has one

 

[fixitflav]

That isnt the way the valve works, the valve always tells the boiler when to fire, other controls tell the valve which position to move to, the valve actually has 2 x microswitches, unlike a 2 port valve which only has one

Yes I know, but what I said was (as you quoted) "Neither can block both outlet ports". That's still the case.
Incidentally, the V4044 valve has no microswitches, so even better!

 

[fixitflav]

Just a couple more questions, in manual mode can I run the hot water at the same time as the heating? Do I keep it in manual mode or need to switch it back? Will the heating only work while the hot water tank is full? If so what do I do to trigger refilling the tank? Sorry for all the questions, it's a bit chilly this morning so I'm going to try the heating for first time

Have you tried what I said in #29? Did it work?

 

[ianmcd]

Yes I know, but what I said was (as you quoted) "Neither can block both outlet ports". That's still the case.
Incidentally, the V4044 valve has no microswitches, so even better!

so what switches the boiler on then ?

 

[CBW]

so what switches the boiler on then ?

Sorcery, thought you knew that one?

 

[fixitflav]

so what switches the boiler on then ?

Either the cylinder stat, or when cylinder stat is satisfied, the roomstat. Rough sketch attached

 

[fixitflav]

so what switches the boiler on then ?

OK, looking at it again, I see where you (and terryplumb) are coming from. The roomstat can fire the boiler direct on W-plan, but on Y-plan it's via the microswitch in the valve actuator. AFAIK at the moment we don't know which it is, though Y-plan probably more likely. In that case, it depends what the microswitches do when the valve is in manual position. Anybody know? If SW2 is closed, it can fire from the roomstat (I think)

 

[terryplumb]

They do nothing when manually latched. The cylinder stat energises the boiler.

 

[fixitflav]

They do nothing when manually latched. The cylinder stat energises the boiler.

OK. In that case (as a temporary measure) she could turn the cylinder stat well up, run it till the house is warm, then turn the system off at the programmer. Maybe a good idea to turn the boiler control-stat down somewhat, to avoid things getting overheated.

 

[terryplumb]

OK. In that case (as a temporary measure) she could turn the cylinder stat well up, run it till the house is warm, then turn the system off at the programmer. Maybe a good idea to turn the boiler control-stat down somewhat, to avoid things getting overheated.

I have already told her what to do ,and explained the limitations. Once cylinder stat is satisfied the boiler will close down.

 

[ianmcd]

AFAIK at the moment we don't know which it is, though Y-plan probably more likely. In that case, it depends what the microswitches do when the valve is in manual position. Anybody know?

yes we do know, it is a Y-plan, and when setting the mid position valve to manual, this is for filling the system, where you dont want the boiler firing or the pump running, but can be used to manually jam the valve in mid-position , but neither micrswitch is made, but there must be another feed that tells the boiler via the white wire to fire, in this case a HW demand, no external controls ever directly tell a boiler to fire, they tell the valve what position it should be in, the valve then tells the boiler when to come on, and depending on the boiler , when the pump comes on, have a closer look at the diagram I posted earlier and you will see the white wire tells the boiler to come on , hence why it requires 2 x microswitches, but neither are made when manually latching

 

[terryplumb]

The Op's motorised valve isn't working ( probably failed motor),by latching it manually to open ,and setting the programmer for DHW,the boiler is energised directly by the cylinder stat. The cylinder stat ( if not satisfied) sends voltage to the same terminal , often terminal 8 ,that contains the orange wire and the switch line to the boiler,therefore energising the boiler. The orange wire is the only output voltage from the valve ,and in this scenario does nothing,albeit being back fed voltage from the cylinder stat, which has no effect whatsoever on the valve.