Potterton Suprima tripping out

[gazthepottertonengineer]

yes basically we brought out a kit to go with the old 100's with the big magnet on the fan as they had the capacitor on them as well but we had a few problems so now we recommend that you fit the new type fan at the same time

basically there are more fault diagnostics with this new pcb and to access alot of them you have to hold the reset button for more than 10 seconds and then it enters diagnostic mode and to get out of it you have to do the same again

 

[cljxr27]

I'm also suffering the same problem a many others with my Suprima 100.
I did take out the PCB and it also had the same brown hot marks around the diodes. I resoldered everything and reinstalled the PCB and everything seemed ok. But it did cross my mind that if the PCB was getting so hot to leave marks then could this affect the solder, as it occasionally goes in to "lock out"

1) Also WHY is the board getting so hot? has anyone found an answer.

I don't know what board is in there but what is the suggested replacement

407750 or
510216 or
5111603 also what is the 5113950 conversion kit ?

 

[ChrisR]

basically there are more fault diagnostics with this new pcb and to access alot of them you have to hold the reset button for more than 10 seconds and then it enters diagnostic mode and to get out of it you have to do the same again

Yer I knew all that - but do you need some special gizmo to get diagnostic information out, or wot?

And, again, What IS the 5113950 kit - just wires?

 

[j.jackson76]

Can anyone help me? I've had approximately 10 experts out to make my central heating system work. I have had the PCB replaced, the control panel, the cylinder thermostat, and the pump. The problem I have now is the central heating works ok if the system is on constant, but when I run everything on timed setting, when I come in on a night the control panel has tripped and I need to replace the fuse. I am running out of fuses and patience. I am now waiting for an electrictian to look at my problem, does anyone have any suggestions on what the problem might be? Or if anyone in the north-east of england might be able to help?

Cheers John.

 

[jonhind]

Hi all,

I have a potterton suprima 40 with a lockout fault.

I have read about all the problems with the pcbs and I think this is the problem but I want to be sure before splashing out all that cash.

The boiler ignites ok and runs for anything from 2 minutes to a few hours and then inevitably fails with the flashing red light, occasionaly it trips the mcb.

I believe this fault could can also be caused by the air pressure switch or overheat stat.
I would like to check these to confirm they are ok. I guess for the air pressure switch I only need to link it to close the contact to simulate it operating. As for the overheat stat I would think it is resistance based any ideas what resistance it should be at ambient temp (21 c).
Is there any other factor that may cause this lockout that i should check prior to replacing the board, i believe the ignition gap can also cause a lockout problem but as this fires up ok i have ruled it out.

I know cet do recon boards, can anyone recomend any where else.

Any info would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks,

Jon

 

[tomwill01]

Hi folks.

Something appears to have blown in my Suprima 30 - when I switch the power on, the timer switches on as normal, but no light comes on on the front of the boiler.

I have put a replacement fuse in and still nothing.

Would anybody haveany idea what this could be? Will I need a new PCB, that is, could something else have "fused" on the board that would be stopping the power working properly.

Any ideas would be appreciated prior to getting somebody!

Thanks

 

[charbel89]

Well, it seems that I am not the only one after all.

My Suprima 50L was installed in January 2003. The item was ordered around November 2002.

By December 2003 the lock out problem started. I didnt think much of it then, I simply pressed the reset and it worked fine. I then went on an extended holiday and when I came back in January the problem occured again, so from January 2004 until now November 2005 the problem only got worse and worse to the point where the boiler only runs about 20 Minutes per day and tghe rest of the it is off. The reset no longer works and I actually need to leave it off for 20-30 minutes 1 hours maybe more before I can reset it successfully.


Yesterday I had a British gas engineer check it out and the first thing he said it was the PCB, he checked some other things and he was confident it was the motherboard (PCB).

Total cost £264.00.

I said I'll think about it.

Pulled my internet search weapon and embarked on an investigation mission that will lead me to the longest running thread ever.

Following the tip of some of the guys I removed my PCB and checked it out.

The result: The PCB is in perfect condition. The model is 5102160 which is one of the newer models. No overheating signs at all, the whole of the inside appears to be in mint condition.

Having said all that the problem appears to be still there.

I noticed something that when I turn my room thermostat to max the problem does not occur, or at least when I hit the reset it simply appears to be working with no problems after that however the boiler will be running constantly. and it appears to run for 1-2 minutes then takes a break with the green light flashing for about 1 minute or so and it then starts again.

Also when I removed the PCB I noticed that right at the top back of the boiler there is small silver looking square part that has many cables connected to it (Orange white and earth...), This part is connected to the side of the bioler and it appears to be very loose it also has a couple of plastic pipes comming out of it. I tried to tighten it but i was not successful. I am not too sure on how to get it tightened or whether it should be tightened at all.


Does anyone here has any suggestions ideas or thoughts into what could be causing this problem? I am not convinced that it is the PCB.

Thanks a lot.


Charbel.

 

[gazthepottertonengineer]

pcb mate trust me i see enough of them

 

[charbel89]

pcb mate trust me i see enough of them

Thanks for your quick response. I jsut updated my post. (last couple of paragraphs).

If it is the PCB what shall I do then? replace it with the latest model? where can I find it? and what is the current model?

Thanks

 

[ollski]

pcb mate trust me i see enough of them

Thanks for your quick response. I jsut updated my post. (last couple of paragraphs).

If it is the PCB what shall I do then? replace it with the latest model? where can I find it? and what is the current model?

Thanks

If you phone BG and tell them you want an on call assistance job it will cost you 144 in London to be sorted parts and labour wheather it be a 5.00 lead or a 200 pcb.

 

[cljxr27]

I need a replacement PCB for my Suprima 100 (AHHV 725 0155) I want
to use the latest PCB 5111603 but I may need an extra part as my boiler is an earlier one. Part no 5113950 and 5000860 have been mentioned but what are they and what one should I get????

 

[meldrew's_mate]

...I shall buy German next time!...(

Total tosspot, if ever there were a race who never admit to shortcomings with their products it's the Geeeeermans Their stuff is no more reliable than British stuff, we just have this culture of knocking our own, and they sit back smugly and let us believe their's is better; it's a self fulfilling prophesy.

 

[meldrew's_mate]

..and it appears to run for 1-2 minutes then takes a break with the green light flashing for about 1 minute or so and it then starts again...

So you have a 30 months-old boiler which cycles every 3 minutes. Thats 20 times per hour, or 200 times per day (at about 10 hours/day), or about 70,000 cycles per year.

Your boiler pcb has done approximately 180 thousand start-stop cycles since new, many RELAY contacts are rated at about 100,000 physical operations Mean Time Between Failures (MTBF); so in short your pcb relays (at the very least) are worn out

Don't blame the boiler though, balance your system properly and it should cycle much less, typically 3 times per hour for a correctly sized boiler, meaning your next pcb could last about 15 years.

Seriously........ balance the heating system, including the DHW load

 

[charbel89]

..and it appears to run for 1-2 minutes then takes a break with the green light flashing for about 1 minute or so and it then starts again...

So you have a 30 months-old boiler which cycles every 3 minutes. Thats 20 times per hour, or 200 times per day (at about 10 hours/day), or about 70,000 cycles per year.

Your boiler pcb has done approximately 180 thousand start-stop cycles since new, many RELAY contacts are rated at about 100,000 physical operations Mean Time Between Failures (MTBF); so in short your pcb relays (at the very least) are worn out

Don't blame the boiler though, balance your system properly and it should cycle much less, typically 3 times per hour for a correctly sized boiler, meaning your next pcb could last about 15 years.

Seriously........ balance the heating system, including the DHW load

It has not been doing that for long.

The thing is the boiler has nebver run for more than 20-30 minutes per day for the last 6 months or so, most of the time I was running out of hotwater had to use the immersion backup.


What had happened is that I took the PCB out tightend the connecotrs and messed around with something that is still loose at the top back of the boilder it has a couple of pipes one is clear the other is white. I do not know what is this or why it is loose. anyway since I had done that my boiler seems to have iimproved a lot.

I only needed to reset it 2-3 time since and with each rreset I was only pressing the button once i.e never needed to power down through the switch.

However since then I noticed the mentioned problem where it stops for few minutes with green flashing and then starts again, and even this seems to have improved now and it only appears to happen when the boilder runs for a long time, which is not needed at the moment becuase my flat is pretty warm and the temprature is always set at about 21 and hotwater is at 50.

Can you explain a bit more about balancing the boiler?


I can not explain what had happened and why is it fine now and I have had this problem from Decemebr 03 and now it 90% better.

Thanks.

 

[tlp000999]

Just came back from a trip away and the house is freezing! The boiler has stopped working again and yep... the little red over heat light is flashing away, pressing reset gets it going again but only for a while and it's unreliable.

We have the Potterton Suprema 100, AHHV 738 088 model, so having read through a few threads on this site I took a look. The pcb looks a bit old with darkened areas of overheating.

As I haven't a clue when it comes to heating systems, could somebody please confirm what needs to be replaced?

* Potterton 5111603 Electronic Control Kit
* Potterton 5000860 Fan Assembly

The control unit is on the outside and it looks simple enough to replace. Do I need the fan assembly as well? How difficult would it be to do? Do I need to call a Corgi guy in?

Another thing that I've noticed is that if I turn down the thermostat controlling the hot water a bit (about 45degC) then it doesnt overheat so often. Is that relevant? Is the system out of balance?

Thanks in advance for any help.