power to outbuilding

[round01]

Morning guys.

Just bought a new house and need to get power to an outhouse literally 1m away from the house. All it needs is a double socket (to run a washing machine and tumble dryer) and striplight.

Their is a double socket in the house on the outside wall which i wont be using. So i was thinking of removing that, joining the 2.5 t&e to some swa and running that through (at the most 4m down, out and up walls) to the outbuilding into a garage unit.

What swa would be best for such a small run?

Thanks

 

[ban-all-sheds]

http://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Technical/Charts/VoltageDrop.html

Specify 2-core cable and PVC, even if that is not what you are using or it will make invalid assumptions.

 

[winston1]

Morning guys.

Just bought a new house and need to get power to an outhouse literally 1m away from the house. All it needs is a double socket (to run a washing machine and tumble dryer) and striplight.

Their is a double socket in the house on the outside wall which i wont be using. So i was thinking of removing that, joining the 2.5 t&e to some swa and running that through (at the most 4m down, out and up walls) to the outbuilding into a garage unit.

What swa would be best for such a small run?

Thanks

http://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Technical/Charts/VoltageDrop.html

Specify 2-core cable and PVC, even if that is not what you are using or it will make invalid assumptions.[/QUOTE

 

[winston1]

So you are spurring of an existing circuit, either ring or radial we don't know which, to feed one double socket only? You would normally use 2.5 mm cable for this. Garage unit not required either.

I assume the circuit has RCD protection in the house, if not your double socket need to be the RCD

 

[flameport]

Are the water pipes in the outhouse metal or plastic?

 

[round01]

The house is rcd protected but i need a light too. thats why i was thinking garage unit.

No pipes in their yet, thats the next step....

 

[ericmark]

I would class a washing machine and a tumble drier as fixed as over the weight limit to be classed as portable as such they should have a dedicated supply exactly the same as the supply for an immersion heater or oven.

I know it is common to just plug them in, but never the less each unit can draw 13A and that must be considered when setting up power to them. The washer is not too bad as although it can draw 13A it's not for long, but the tumble drier can run for over an hour at 13A so that is a problem.

So you need to be sure the whole route to consumer unit is man enough for a 26A load. Or if not than at least fit an automatic disconnection device which will ensure the supply is removed before any cable over heats.

I would thing in general even with both running the average draw is less than 20A likely less than 16A so if the supply is protected with a B20 MCB then should the program selected on the odd time mean it exceeds 20A for an extended time then the MCB will disconnect before any cable damage. However with a B32 MCB the cable could be overloaded.

Coming from the CU means it is likely classed as a new circuit so to do correctly it will likely be cheaper not to DIY because of the LABC charges. So you have to decide if your going to break the law or not and if it's all really worth it.

 

[winston1]

The house is rcd protected but i need a light too. thats why i was thinking garage unit.

No pipes in there yet, thats the next step....

I got the impression you were fitting one double socket into which you were plugging in one washer dryer and one striplight. It now appears you are plugging in a separate washer and separate dryer into the double socket and then a separate striplight.

Well a double socket is only rated at a total of 20 amps so you cannot put those two items into it, you will need 2 separate singles. The light will have to come off a switched fused connection unit. So now you are proposing three items off a spur from a ring or radial. That is allowed with a 20A radial circuit but not off a 32A ring.
So you need a separate circuit back to the CU on a 32A MCB. That means 4mm SWA. But you still don't need a garage unit as long as you run your light via a switched fused connection unit.

Washers and dryers can be plugged in, are meant to be plugged in, and they are sold with a moulded plug. There is suggested guidance somewhere that disputes this but there is no regulation anywhere so just plug them in like nearly everyone does. Makes it much easier for servicing as well, a pulled plug is a much better isolator that a switch that can fail or be switched on again.

 

[securespark]

You plan to terminate the disused socket in the kitchen and extend with a single cable?

Why not extend the ring out?


https://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Products/SW2dot5slash4.html

or


https://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Products/SW4slash4.html

 

[winston1]

You plan to terminate the disused socket in the kitchen and extend with a single cable?

Why not extend the ring out?


https://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Products/SW2dot5slash4.html

or


https://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Products/SW4slash4.html

We don't even know if the disused socket is part of a ring, a spur from a ring, or part of a 20A radial.

What are you suggesting with those 4 core SWA cables? Two cores ring out, two cores ring return perhaps, what about the earth?

 

[ericmark]

The house is rcd protected but i need a light too. thats why i was thinking garage unit.

No pipes in there yet, thats the next step....

Well a double socket is only rated at a total of 20 amps so you cannot put those two items into it.

That depends on make and type. Looking at MK there standard double socket rated 26A but their RCD and Filter versions rated at just 13A so clearly there can be a problem with large appliances overloading a double socket.

Neither my washer or my tumble drier are on the limit 2.2 kW seems normal today which would mean just over 19 amp for the pair. So in real terms often it is OK to run both from a double socket. However with plug in items it is so easy to replace without considering if the new one will cause an over load.

I remember when looking for the last replacement tumble drier looking at one designed to run over night. Instead of 2 kW for 1 hour it used 300 W for up to 6 hours which was claimed saved power and better for the cloths. I have switched my tumble drier from 2 kW to 1 kW and it does not take twice as long so clearly saving power.

My old washer used less electrical power than the new one, the new one in order to comply with energy saving bands uses more electric power. The old one also used power from my gas supply by have a hot fill, it seems hot and cold fill has gone all are now cold fill only. Yes they may save energy but gas is so much cheaper than electric.

My very old twin tub was really efficient with both power and water wash day was really a wash day all cloths went into same water white first followed but colours then vie the mangle to the spin drier and then washing line under car port. Only in freezing conditions was there a problem. However the Last of Summer Wine days are over and having days of the week split into washing, blacking grate and washing step, etc. are over. Our devices save more and more labour at the cost of electric power.

So at the moment we have no idea of power requirement it's just a guess, we also have no idea of supply type, again just a guess, All we do know is the old Part P rules are still valid as Gwynedd is in Wales. So work outside is a special location so if he wants it all legal then he either pays the LABC £100 plus vat plus any testers they employ to test it or us a scheme member electrician to do the work.

 

[ban-all-sheds]

... SWA cables? ... what about the earth?

 

[riveralt]

Apart from the lack of any proper calculations over potential load/cable sizes, RCD/MCB sizes, earth types etc and regulatory elements from your LABC, putting your washing machine and tumble dryer in an out building is highly likely to invalidate any guarantee you may have remaining on the two products.

 

[winston1]

... SWA cables? ... what about the earth?

Not sure what you are implying, but it is not normal to rely only on the steel braid in SWA for earthing.

 

[RF Lighting]

Yes it absolutely is! You never cease to amaze me with the rubbish you post on here.