Putting power sockets in the loft

[BrettRogersUK]

Hi All,

I want to put a model railway in my loft but there is no power sockets up there.

I've read the pros and cons of taking power from the lighting circuit and I think this is a no no from what I've read on here and other forums.

I have, however, got the old switch in the airing cupboard where my immersion tank used to be before I had it taken out when I had the combi boiler fitted ages ago. This also has a way in the fuse box as well (currently in the off position naturally).

Could I take a feed from this switch in the cupboard up into the loft and run a double socket from it? I'm not sure if I'd only need one double socket or two up there. Maybe if I use one double socket I could use a 3 or 4 way extension bar plugged into it. I'd also maybe need a mini heater to be plugged in as well.

Thanks all,

Brett

 

[EFLImpudence]

I have, however, got the old switch in the airing cupboard where my immersion tank used to be before I had it taken out when I had the combi boiler fitted ages ago. This also has a way in the fuse box as well (currently in the off position naturally).

Could I take a feed from this switch in the cupboard up into the loft and run a double socket from it? I'm not sure if I'd only need one double socket or two up there. Maybe if I use one double socket I could use a 3 or 4 way extension bar plugged into it. I'd also maybe need a mini heater to be plugged in as well.

Assuming it is a 16A or 20A breaker in the CU then run 2.5mm² cable to the loft and you can have as many sockets as you want.

Obviously they will be limited to a total of 16A but that will be plenty for your railway.

 

[Taylortwocities]

Yes. One or two Double sockets are fine. The circuit needs to be RCD-protected b

 

[Steven Prentice]

No reason why not either way if you understand what you are asking off the house wiring.

If you are not changing the size of the protection in the consumer unit and keeping the wiring sze the same throughout the circuit you will be fne either way. Some pedant will be along sometime to tell me I am wrong I am sure.

Immersian heater supply: Has more than enough capacity for what you need, can probably supply all the power you need as well as lighing, some music and so on., probably also a heater if it gets chilly.

Lighting circuit is exactly the same as a socket ring main except it has thinner cables (this is where the pedants wil get all upset) and thinner cables means it can supply less current. So as long as your load is less than the protecton in the consumer unit, again all is fine. Probably won't be able to do heating in the loft. Older house wil probably be designed to have 60W bulbs, low energy are now 5 to 10W and this reduction gives you plenty of capacity in the lighting circuit to do what you want to do.

 

[Sureitsoff?]

But what if he wants to plug in his welder..........

 

[Murdochcat]

No reason why not either way if you understand what you are asking off the house wiring.

If you are not changing the size of the protection in the consumer unit and keeping the wiring sze the same throughout the circuit you will be fne either way. Some pedant will be along sometime to tell me I am wrong I am sure.

Immersian heater supply: Has more than enough capacity for what you need, can probably supply all the power you need as well as lighing, some music and so on., probably also a heater if it gets chilly.

Lighting circuit is exactly the same as a socket ring main except it has thinner cables (this is where the pedants wil get all upset) and thinner cables means it can supply less current. So as long as your load is less than the protecton in the consumer unit, again all is fine. Probably won't be able to do heating in the loft. Older house wil probably be designed to have 60W bulbs, low energy are now 5 to 10W and this reduction gives you plenty of capacity in the lighting circuit to do what you want to do.

Best practice is NOT to add sockets to a lighting circuit AND if the lighting circuit is 1mm its not allowed

Extending the redundant immersion circuit IS the best thing to do and make sure its got RCD protection

 

[Taylortwocities]

Best practice is NOT to add sockets to a lighting circuit AND if the lighting circuit is 1mm its not allowed

That is just not correct. It is specifically allowed and listed as such in BS7671. The conductor size is irrelevant. 1mm cable will be protected by the 6amp MCB etc.

 

[Murdochcat]

That is just not correct. It is specifically allowed and listed as such in BS7671. The conductor size is irrelevant. 1mm cable will be protected by the 6amp MCB etc.

but the OP has stated he want to plug things in ...... including a heater so I would never put it on a 1mm circuit...

 

[Taylortwocities]

Can’t think where this thread has strayed. The OP has no intention of using the lighting circuit for this job. Ah, it was @Steven Prentice >(

 

[baldykev]

For safety may be worth having a emergency light fitted as well, so in case of power failure for any reason you can see what you are doing .
Or at least have a torch stored in EASY place to access.

 

[Harry Bloomfield]

I want to put a model railway in my loft but there is no power sockets up there.

I've read the pros and cons of taking power from the lighting circuit and I think this is a no no from what I've read on here and other forums.

It's a YES, you can run it from the lighting circuit, if a 6amp (less a bit) supply was adequate, but better if run from the old immersion heater circuit, which will be a 16amp one. That assumes the lighting circuit is a reasonably modern one, which includes an earth.

The 6amp will be adequate for a few lights, and the model railway, but not for any sort of heater.

 

[Koolpc]

You will be on the right track using the old immersion socket.

 

[SUNRAY]

Hi All,

I want to put a model railway in my loft but there is no power sockets up there.

I've read the pros and cons of taking power from the lighting circuit and I think this is a no no from what I've read on here and other forums.

It is only the pedants who will tell you it's wrong, it is expressly permitted withing the wiring regulations, but see following comments

I have, however, got the old switch in the airing cupboard where my immersion tank used to be before I had it taken out when I had the combi boiler fitted ages ago. This also has a way in the fuse box as well (currently in the off position naturally).

Could I take a feed from this switch in the cupboard up into the loft and run a double socket from it? I'm not sure if I'd only need one double socket or two up there.

That seems like a sensible option and it allows you to do much more without having to be concerned about overloading, you automatically have a means of turning everything off when you finish everytime without having to remember to flick multiple switches.
You may fit as many double sockets as you desire as long as wiring is compatible with your MCB.
POST #2 & #3, #7, #11, #12 are correct, #4 gives a sensible explanation, #6 is simply wrong and verging on incorrect scaremongering.
I did something similar for my stepson, having done a full renovation including rewire on the house when I purchased it and included trunking wherever I could it was easy to provide it's own circuit from the fusebox and added a switch just inside the lofthatch, right beside the light switch which I deliberately left on the lighting circuit for safety, just like post #10.

Maybe if I use one double socket I could use a 3 or 4 way extension bar plugged into it.

My tip: extend from the immersion heater switch and add sockets, if you think you require one double, fit two and if you think you require four doubles, fit at least 6. In my experience (and not limited to my own loft) hobbies such as yours always require more sockets than expected, if they are not fitted at the beginning there will be a tangle of extensions forever more.

I'd also maybe need a mini heater to be plugged in as well.

You have planned well Brett and yes you will need the heater if you are likely to be in the loft at this time of year, which is more likely than in the summer unless you are able to ventilate the heat out effectively, fitting a velux window or 3 may very well be your friend.

Thanks all,

Brett

Your welcome.

 

[Koolpc]

Looks like you have a green light!

 

[BrettRogersUK]

With regard to to the heater I'm planning on putting more insulation down and adding to the 100mm (approx) already up there and possibly using something like the superfoil bubble stuff stapled to the rafters. Should provide an ambient temperature up there.

Previous owner boarded part of the loft and put boards directly across the joists compressing what insulation there was up there so need to remedy that. Our house is a detached house and was built in 2000.