Question about earthing SWA

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Hiya, I have a shed I need to wire up and have read through many many posts and think I'm almost there on everything I need and have to do.

I plan to run 6mm 3 core swa from the shed to back wall of house where I will terminate to a ip66 box. I plan to run the tail of the cores through the wall and junction box to some 6mm t&e which will run to the main consumer unit.

My question I'm not sure how to get the earth from the armour into the box whilst keeping it water tight. I did see the wiska box with earth connector thing but can't see anywhere that sells them for the size box I will need? At the risk of sounding stupid, as there is no outside connection does it have to be waterproof? It's under a open ended canopy anyway so wouldn't get wet normally.

My other question is once the wires are inside is any box ok to connect the t&e and swa tails? Was thinking a metal box with plastic front as I have these spare any looks isn't important.
 
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Why can't you just run the SWA straight to your CU without the junction box? PLease be aware there are legal and safety implications to doing this work yourself without your LABC being informed.
 
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Erm why does it have to be metal clad with knockouts?

Why can't a standard insulated CU be used?
 
Erm why does it have to be metal clad with knockouts?

Why can't a standard insulated CU be used?

Well, I'm thinking of a good method of glanding the SWA and getting the brass nut in.

On a standard insulated board, usually the cover goes over the whole thing, so you can't drill your 20mm or 25mm hole into that.

I'd hope that no one would just shove the swa in with no gland, that'd be a bit untidy.
 
Erm why does it have to be metal clad with knockouts?

Why can't a standard insulated CU be used?

Well, I'm thinking of a good method of glanding the SWA and getting the brass nut in.

On a standard insulated board, usually the cover goes over the whole thing, so you can't drill your 20mm or 25mm hole into that.

I'd hope that no one would just shove the swa in with no gland, that'd be a bit untidy.

You can use a piranah nut, or an adaptable box or a conduit box or lots of other things.

I can't think of a CU where the cover goes over the whole thing. Wylex, volex, crabtree, hager, MK, schneider, GE, BG, niglon, CED don't...
 
Erm why does it have to be metal clad with knockouts?

Why can't a standard insulated CU be used?

Well, I'm thinking of a good method of glanding the SWA and getting the brass nut in.

On a standard insulated board, usually the cover goes over the whole thing, so you can't drill your 20mm or 25mm hole into that.

I'd hope that no one would just shove the swa in with no gland, that'd be a bit untidy.

You can use a piranah nut, or an adaptable box or a conduit box or lots of other things.

Yeah, adaptable box, conduit box, as we all know but you seemed confused over it.

I can't think of a CU where the cover goes over the whole thing. Wylex, volex, crabtree, hager, MK, schneider, GE, BG, niglon, CED don't...

:?:

Been fitting hagar, wylex etc for years and the cover comes completely off revealing only the back with no top or sides left, as it's for concealed cable entry or trunking and not conduits.
 
Wylex:
PL11772-40.jpg



Hager:
prod-94-300-300.jpg


:rolleyes:
 
For example, as you can see that cover goes over the lot.

CPDS088PKIT.jpg


Although Contactum are crap!
 
You say "usually the cover goes over the whole thing" which clearly isn't the case.

You're making a habit of being wrong aren't you.
 

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