Quick turnaround EICR certs

[EFLImpudence]

Shouldn't there be a screw there?

 

[JohnW2]

Shouldn't there be a screw there?

If you're talking about the hole on the right (near the brown cable entry), although it's not very clear from the photo, I thought that there probably is a screw in there ('in shadow'). Indeed, if there isn't, what is holding the brown conductor in?!

Are you assuming that the hole is what was meant by the 'black button' (since I certainly can't see any other one)?

Kind Regards, John

 

[Harry Bloomfield]

I assume that the black button will pop up in the event of a fault. Can you tell me what the white wire is for? Thanks.

There is no black button, I think what you are seeing is a terminal screw. The white wires (two) are the leads from the thermal fuse. It a single use, non-resettable item. Once it overheats and opens, it has to be replaced with a new fuse.

 

[EFLImpudence]

Are you assuming that the hole is what was meant by the 'black button'

Yes.

Surely it should look the same as the other screw.

 

[JohnW2]

Yes. ... Surely it should look the same as the other screw.

It probably would if both screws (or neither screw) were 'in shadow'.

Given that the implication was that what Vicario showed us was his working setup, if there were no screw in there, what would be holding the brown conductor in (satisfactorily)?

Kind Regards, John

 

[ericmark]

There was a reply from @ianmcd on the plumbing part, it seems

a solid fuel appliance heating HW requires a pipe Thermostat that activates a pump, and pumps the excess heat to a heat dump, usually rads but can be others

I have seen plans showing this radiator however not seen any pump and can't see how a pump would be safe same with boiler needing a pump. These two and both seem to need electric to circulate the water, I remember writing to one manufacturer asking about this and never got an answer, my son with a narrow boat did use a pair of 12 volt DC pumps and a pair of pipe thermostats to switch them on one powered from domestic battery and one from engine battery so unlikely there would every be a problem powering pumps.

However with a header tank in the loft space thermo-syphon with allow the hot water to heat the header tank, and as long as the tank can take boiling water if water boils there is just a lot of noise and boiling water is ejected out of the over flow, I well remember the water spurting out onto the drive at dad's old house, by time it reached head height cool enough not to be a danger.

We can do an internet hunt for the Backer BT 18 and see it does contain a over temperature fuse or cut out, it is a common make.

However unless you can find it listed on internet, back to original question, how do you know if the fuse or cut out is fitted. These

were at one point fitted to immersion heaters, the cut out or fuse was not part of the thermostat, and there was often a button to enable reset without removing the cover. In the main these system pre-date the internet, and where alternative domestic hot water heating is available and living in a soft water area immersion heaters and their control gear can be 50 years old, as never really used.

So question remains, with a unknown thermostat without a reset button how can one be sure it has the built in cut out or fuse when used with a thermal plastic header tank? How would any electrician doing an EICR know if OK or not?

 

[ericmark]

Ups seems I may have found a internet page with wrong info

7", 11" 18" BT type thermostats
7" 11" 18" BMST Backer Rod Thermostats with integral secondary manual cut-out
11" BP11 Backer Plug-In type Rod Thermostat quick connection with integral secondary manual cut-out

Some need this

it seems they don't have built in over temperature cut out, so for the Backer BT 18 it says "18" Rod Thermostat, Non Resettable used with Manual Button Cut-Out Part No 13115" I read the "non resettable" and missed the "used with manual button cut-out"

• 18" Rod Thermostat
• Non Resettable
• Does not have secondary protection if this is required then a BMST18 thermostat is required
• Type BT18
• Product Code 13083J
• Used with Button Cut-Out

It says "Fits Backersafe VS Range Immersion Heaters" which is very confusing as not safe with many header tanks.