Radiator Plumbing Options

[Happyunited]

Hi,

I'm installing a 400h x 800w radiator in my hallway that is always freezing cold mainly because there isnt a rad at the top or bottom of the stairs.

Because of where I'm connecting into (22mm pipework above) 15mm flexible plastic pipework will be used. On the image attached I plan on dropping the two pipes down the corner. The left hand pipe should connect in fairly straight forward with the help of a 15mm 90deg elbow on the bottom of the lockshield/TRV.

1) My main question is will I be able to obtain the sweep to reach the furthest valve or will I need a 90deg elbow at the bottom of the drop and then run the pipe along the bottom of the rad to the other valve? The brackets are pretty small.

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• Happyunited
• 9 Apr 2013
• 1

2) On this instance would it make sense to have the TRV on the left or right of the rad in that picture or does it not make any difference? I'm using John Guest pipework & fittings.

3) The john guest elbow stem - with the aid of a pipe insert can this be connected directly into a 15mm chrome compression elbow?

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• Happyunited
• 9 Apr 2013
• 1

Thanks in advance for your replies.

 

[muggles]

You could just lash it across I suppose, an elbow at the bottom and a few clips would look much better though. Make sure it can't rub on the bracket if you go for your intended option as the sharp edge will wear through the pipe.

The TRV should go on the right

Those stem elbows can go straight into your radiator valves

 

[Whitespirit66]

Difficult to know how to make the pipework look less ugly.

Poss, left hand pipe down to level of bottom left rad tapping, Speedfit elbow , then straight into a straight rad valve. Right hand pipe sweeping behind rad as your picture, then end of pipe into a stem elbow - stem of the elbow into an angled rad valve.

Mixing straight and angled valves is unconventional, but tidies things up a bit. With plastic pipe and push fit, it's never going to be pretty.

Is there no chance of piping up from the stairs instead?

 

[Happyunited]

Thanks for your reply.

I have taken a picture of a friends house that has 10mm plastic pipe so I'm hoping to follow the same arrangement on the TRV end which should work nicely. That's also good I can connect the 15mm elbow stem straight to the connection.

Can I use a 15mm copper pipe cutter to cut the 15mm plastic pipe?

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• Happyunited
• 9 Apr 2013
• 1

 

[Happyunited]

Difficult to know how to make the pipework look less ugly.

Poss, left hand pipe down to level of bottom left rad tapping, Speedfit elbow , then straight into a straight rad valve. Right hand pipe sweeping behind rad as your picture, then end of pipe into a stem elbow - stem of the elbow into an angled rad valve.

Mixing straight and angled valves is unconventional, but tidies things up a bit. With plastic pipe and push fit, it's never going to be pretty.

Is there no chance of piping up from the stairs instead?

Thanks for your reply.

I was only planning on boxing in the pipework above the handrail as I thought the pipework wouldnt show much but the more I think about it the more those pipes and elbows will show and I agree they are not pretty.

I think this will look fine;?

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• Happyunited
• 9 Apr 2013
• 1

I wish I could pipe upwards but all my downstairs rads are dropped from above as my boiler is upstairs. This rad will of course require a drain off valve.

Could anyone tell me what width of the 22mm pipe I would need to cut out to enable the 22X22X15 TEE to fit in? I have marked where the 2 15mm pipes have to drop to and again Im not sure if I can just angle the tee and bend the pipes down the hole or should I use a 90deg elbow then drop vertically down? There is a little bit of play in the 22mm pipes.

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• Happyunited
• 9 Apr 2013
• 1

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• Happyunited
• 9 Apr 2013
• 1

 

[Armo74]

You can buy lockshields valves with built in drain taps. Don't forget to top up with inhibitor you can do this via the vent plug on the radiator.

 

[stem]

The radiator would be better at the bottom of the stairs, because heat rises.

An aunt of mine lived in a flat with a cold hall & stairs. She had a radiator installed at the top of the stairs and it got far too warm where the radiator was located (This was 20 years ago before TRV's were common place) But it was still just as cold in the hall at the bottom.

 

[Whitespirit66]

Can I use a 15mm copper pipe cutter to cut the 15mm plastic pipe?

You can cut barrier pipe with a hacksaw, but you will need to cut it squarely and deburr or it may cause problems when pushing pipe into push-fit fitting.

Best to use a plastic pipe cutter if poss, as you get a nice, burr-free cut.

http://www.screwfix.com/p/plastic-pipe-cutter-26mm/59590

http://www.screwfix.com/p/rothenberger-plasticut-plastic-pipe-cutter-15mm/22344

 

[Charnwood]

Sweeping behind the rad will be problematic due to the brackets (red lines, aproximately).
The yellow lines indicate possible routes for the pipework.

View media item 59840
Have you thought about TBSE connections? (Top, Bottom, Same End.) In top, out bottom.

How feasible would it be to route the pipework behind the lower part of the banister?

 

[Happyunited]

The radiator would be better at the bottom of the stairs, because heat rises.

An aunt of mine lived in a flat with a cold hall & stairs. She had a radiator installed at the top of the stairs and it got far too warm where the radiator was located (This was 20 years ago before TRV's were common place) But it was still just as cold in the hall at the bottom.

I'm hoping this will solve my problem. The hallway is tiny - just about enough space to open the front door, step to the side and close it. The landing is a good bit bigger so as you say hopefully the heat rises. The BTU is 2750 so hopefully that gives enough heat.

Thanks for your post.

 

[Happyunited]

Can I use a 15mm copper pipe cutter to cut the 15mm plastic pipe?

You can cut barrier pipe with a hacksaw, but you will need to cut it squarely and deburr or it may cause problems when pushing pipe into push-fit fitting.

Best to use a plastic pipe cutter if poss, as you get a nice, burr-free cut.

http://www.screwfix.com/p/plastic-pipe-cutter-26mm/59590

http://www.screwfix.com/p/rothenberger-plasticut-plastic-pipe-cutter-15mm/22344[/QUOTE]

I actually bought a JG cutter today, I certainly don't want any leaks from dodgy cuts.

Thanks for your post.

 

[Happyunited]

Sweeping behind the rad will be problematic due to the brackets (red lines, aproximately).
The yellow lines indicate possible routes for the pipework.

View media item 59840
Have you thought about TBSE connections? (Top, Bottom, Same End.) In top, out bottom.

How feasible would it be to route the pipework behind the lower part of the banister?

Thanks for taking time to do a sketch. I was actually going to ask about TSBE - does this work OK and would the TRV be at the top or the bottom? I'm not sure it would look that great though? Regarding your question about the banister there is no depth to it its flush underneath so the pipes would show. I think what you have shown - pipes down the corner then tucked underneath is the way to do it.

I have been busy tonight and fitted the TRV while I wait for my plastic pipe & fittings to arrive. I'm going to put a 15mm elbow on the bottom of the TRV and I was just wondering is it OK to connect 15mm plastic to this 15mm chrome elbow providing I use a pipe insert and olive?

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• Happyunited
• 10 Apr 2013
• 1

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• Happyunited
• 10 Apr 2013
• 1

Thanks again.

 

[Whitespirit66]

Yes, compression is fine on plastic pipe.

 

[Happyunited]

Yes, compression is fine on plastic pipe.

Thanks.

Does it matter where the olive is placed from the end of the plastic pipe or will it just all tighten together anyway?

 

[Whitespirit66]

Yes, compression is fine on plastic pipe.

Thanks.

Does it matter where the olive is placed from the end of the plastic pipe or will it just all tighten together anyway?

Place the olive on the end of the pipe, slide pipe and olive into compression fitting. Make sure the pipe is pushed all the way into fitting against it's stop until you have tightened the nut.

As long as the pipe is kept pushed into the fitting against it's stop during nut tightening, the olive will be tightened correctly onto end of pipe.