Raising electric points higher above worktop.

[BruceM]

Can anybody advise please on the above subject.

I have a kitchen built partly into roofspace, with sloping walls etc.

It has been necessary to install false walls that have been made of heavy chipboard, otherwise the slope would have been down to about 2ft.

The electric points have been installed only about 5cms above the kitchen worktops, and before re-tiling I would prefer to raise them to allow a 10cm upstand to be fitted, leaving another 5cms margin.

There is no spare cable to allow any movement, and what cable there is has been tightly clipped to the studs.

Any suggestions gratefully accepted.

 

[MalcofArabia]

Are we assumming that the cable comes from the floor up rather than from the ceiling down? or are they vertical along the sockets run.

As the chipboard already been cut for the boxes and fitted? If so then how are you going about sealing the original holes in the chipboard after you have moved the sockets up?

 

[Chri5]

Either a full recable which is best, or use crimpers and extend the existing cables.

The crimps must be the ratchet type, the cores should be over sleeved (heat shrink is best) and the cable should be taped over at the join with self amalgermating tape.

Post works (and before plastering over) test all work.

You can't use junction boxes, since they MUST be accessible so the permanent join method is the only choice you have. Soldering (hard to do if you have never done it) and crimping are the only two accepted methods of doing a permanent joint.

 

[Taylortwocities]

Are we assumming that the cable comes from the floor up rather than from the ceiling down? or are they vertical along the sockets run.

Could be horizontal between the boxes => even more difficult for the OP

 

[BruceM]

I have removed the cooker control box to view the cabling behind, and it runs from the floor up. I am quite happy to cut new holes and fit timber back braces set behind, for the new boxes to screw into.

I had in mind to re-use the cut-outs to glue into the old holes. If not practical I would cut new squares and glue them in place with battens pre-fitted behind to ensure a strong repair.

I wanted to fit the upstand because it looks a better finished job, and surely it would also be a lot safer for the electric points to be up away from the worktop in any case.

The whole area behind the worktops will be tiled over when finished.

 

[sparkwright]

Deleted for being total cobblers.

 

[BruceM]

Very helpful, Thank-you !

 

[bernardgreen]

The whole area behind the worktops will be tiled over when finished.

Choose the tiles and then place the new sockets so either top or bottom is level with the top of acourse of tiles. That reduces the amount of tile cutting to fit round the sockets.

 

[DetlefSchmitz]

Or at least check that the tile cutting will be easy. A Dremel will easily cut a rectangle out of a tile, but not if it gets too close to the edge.