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[DIYGrant]

Hello guys and gals!

Im just your typical DIYer here trying to learn on the job so hopefully someone can help me here .

Can you see anything wrong my kitchen electrics? Any potential issues? Could it be improved?

The 6mm cable is from the old oven so im just reusing it. Can I use a 1 metre run of 2.5mm T&E from the 20A switch to the single socket?

Do i need a fuse before going to the light switch?

Ive went for a ring on the main circuit because thats what was there before and both ends are already coming from the board. I have a spare 20a switch I was going to use to isolate 1 of the other appliances but I dont really see any point now.

Thanks for reading and for advice given

 

[JohnW2]

Im just your typical DIYer here trying to learn on the job so hopefully someone can help me here .

Welcome to the forum - I'm sure some folk will bee able to help you!

Can you see anything wrong my kitchen electrics? Any potential issues? Could it be improved?

See below cooy of your diagram to which I have added some 'point numbers',which I'll address in turn vbelow - some of which address yiouyr explicit Questions:

The 6mm cable is from the old oven so im just reusing it. Can I use a 1 metre run of 2.5mm T&E from the 20A switch to the single socket?

OK. I was going to ask why it's 6mm², but there's no harm in it being larger than necessary. So long as it is only feeding one single (or it coulkd be double) socket, your 1m of 2.5mm² cable would be fine, but you could not connect anything else to that bit of cable.

Do i need a fuse before going to the light switch?

Definitely yes (see below), but why aren't you running lights off a lighting circuit?

Ive went for a ring on the main circuit because thats what was there before and both ends are already coming from the board.

Fair enough.

I have a spare 20a switch I was going to use to isolate 1 of the other appliances but I dont really see any point now.

There's generally no point in doing that unless the socket is hidden behind an appliance and/or is an unswitched socket.

Moving to my numbered points:

Point 1
'Silly' though it may be, regulations do not allow one to supply more than one thing (single or double socket,or FCU) from an unfused spur from a ring final. I realise that the fan represents a trivialload , sich that common sense says that it woulkd be OK, but if you want to comply strictly with the regs, you can't do it - you woulkd have to make it into a 'fused spur', by putting a Fused Connection Unit (FCU) before the first socket. Also, the fan will undoubtedly say that it must be protected with a 3A fuse. Whilst we often discuss the fact that such is daft when the fan is, as usual, on a 6A lighting circuit,it's would be a bit different with what yiou have drawn, since the protection would only be from a 32A MCB. If you out in a 13A FCU as above, some would say that was OK, but you could add a second FCU (where your 'fan isolator' is with a 3A fuse. Although manufacturers often say that you 'must have' a fan isolator, the regs do not actually require it, so it is only really 'useful' to make maintenance of the fan ('once in a blue moon'!) more convenient.

Point 2
As above, you definitely would need an FCU before the light switch, with maybe a 5A fuse (theoretically smaller would do if its all LEDs) - since, apart from everything else, otherwise you'd have to use 4mm² cable for the lighting (since it's only protected by a 32A MCB)! However, as above,is there some reason why you aren't using a lighting circuit for the lights?

Point 3
When you say 'fused plate', do I take it you mean FCU (as above)?

Point 4
See above regarding the 6mm cable and your proposed extension of it.

Point 5
Is there a good reason for your needing a switch here (per comments above)?

Hope the above may help a bit!

Kind Regards, John

 

[pcaouolte]

Is that a 16A oven plugged into a (13A) single socket at the bottom right corner?

 

[Murdochcat]

Why would you feed the lights off the socket circuit? I issue and you lose the lot

What type of fuseboard do you have?

 

[DIYGrant]

Is that a 16A oven plugged into a (13A) single socket at the bottom right corner?

Yes. The oven came with a plug on it, I assume its a 13a plug but could be wrong

 

[DIYGrant]

Why would you feed the lights off the socket circuit? I issue and you lose the lot

What type of fuseboard do you have?

I live in a tenament flat with lathe and plaster ceilings, cornicing and roses etc, and with a flat above me so access is limited and dont really want to disturb any of that. I could possibly raggle the ceiling from the spare room light in the adjacent room but its a lot of work/mess. My kitchen is open plan but I was happy to have everything kitchen related on those 2 circuits, unless advised otherwise.

Im not sure of the fuseboard, i'll have a look tonight when Im home. Thanks

 

[pcaouolte]

Yes. The oven came with a plug on it, I assume its a 13a plug but could be wrong

If the oven was supplied with a UK plug on it then it will be fine in a 13A socket.

 

[Adam_151]

I live in a tenament flat with lathe and plaster ceilings, cornicing and roses etc, and with a flat above me so access is limited and dont really want to disturb any of that. I could possibly raggle the ceiling from the spare room light in the adjacent room but its a lot of work/mess.

Do you not have a feed from the lighting circuit existing already in the kitchen?

 

[DIYGrant]

Do you not have a feed from the lighting circuit existing already in the kitchen?

No unfortunately it was an internal kitchen converted from cupboard space. Although, there could possibly be an old cupboard light above the lowered ceiling but it would be ancient wiring and would be alot of work to try and access and then repair the subsequent damage. If I was to use the existing circuit from a neighbouring room, would it come off the light switch or the light itself? Or would either work and just depends what is closest? Thanks

 

[DIYGrant]

Welcome to the forum - I'm sure some folk will bee able to help you!

See below cooy of your diagram to which I have added some 'point numbers',which I'll address in turn vbelow - some of which address yiouyr explicit Questions:

OK. I was going to ask why it's 6mm², but there's no harm in it being larger than necessary. So long as it is only feeding one single (or it coulkd be double) socket, your 1m of 2.5mm² cable would be fine, but you could not connect anything else to that bit of cable.

Definitely yes (see below), but why aren't you running lights off a lighting circuit?

Fair enough.

There's generally no point in doing that unless the socket is hidden behind an appliance and/or is an unswitched socket.

Moving to my numbered points:

Point 1
'Silly' though it may be, regulations do not allow one to supply more than one thing (single or double socket,or FCU) from an unfused spur from a ring final. I realise that the fan represents a trivialload , sich that common sense says that it woulkd be OK, but if you want to comply strictly with the regs, you can't do it - you woulkd have to make it into a 'fused spur', by putting a Fused Connection Unit (FCU) before the first socket. Also, the fan will undoubtedly say that it must be protected with a 3A fuse. Whilst we often discuss the fact that such is daft when the fan is, as usual, on a 6A lighting circuit,it's would be a bit different with what yiou have drawn, since the protection would only be from a 32A MCB. If you out in a 13A FCU as above, some would say that was OK, but you could add a second FCU (where your 'fan isolator' is with a 3A fuse. Although manufacturers often say that you 'must have' a fan isolator, the regs do not actually require it, so it is only really 'useful' to make maintenance of the fan ('once in a blue moon'!) more convenient.

Point 2
As above, you definitely would need an FCU before the light switch, with maybe a 5A fuse (theoretically smaller would do if its all LEDs) - since, apart from everything else, otherwise you'd have to use 4mm² cable for the lighting (since it's only protected by a 32A MCB)! However, as above,is there some reason why you aren't using a lighting circuit for the lights?

Point 3
When you say 'fused plate', do I take it you mean FCU (as above)?

Point 4
See above regarding the 6mm cable and your proposed extension of it.

Point 5
Is there a good reason for your needing a switch here (per comments above)?

Hope the above may help a bit!
View attachment 325042

Kind Regards, John

Hi John,

Sorry i've taken so long to reply, I didnt want to give a quick response when you've taken so much time and effort in your reply, which is much appreciated!

P1 - Okay that makes sense. Could I remove the single socket and connect the hob to the fan isolator or would that still not comply? Could I use my "spare 20A Switch" in place of a FCU? (Sorry im unsure if they are the same thing). If not then I will just add an extra socket within the ring on that wall.
P2 - My other replies should have shed light on that (excuse the pun )
P3 - Yes i mean FCU sorry.
P4 - I actually had another look and I think it might only be a 4mm cable. Theres no marking on it but its pretty much double the size of the 2.5mm cable.
P5 - No good reason tbh other than I bought a switch because I thought i needed one. I do like the idea of being able to isolate the oven power but i would actually like to do the same with the microwave as they are in the same unit. Could I add both appliances to the 20A switch?

Thanks again buddy

 

[DIYGrant]

I revised my circuit if anyone can have a look please.

 

[DetlefSchmitz]

Seems a bit odd to be running two cooking appliances through a 20A switch. Why not a 45A switch?

 

[DIYGrant]

Seems a bit odd to be running two cooking appliances through a 20A switch. Why not a 45A switch?

Good question, I dont really know why. Can I put both appliances on the same 45A switch?

 

[333rocky333]

What is a fan isolator 10A, not clear on your drawing whats on a Plug or whats being hardwired into the 32a circuit

 

[DIYGrant]

What is a fan isolator 10A, not clear on your drawing whats on a Plug or whats being hardwired into the 32a circuit

Its a fan isolator switch, I think its pretty self explanatory? I dont think i've seen a kitchen without one Lol.
Its not very easy to illustrate the difference between plugged/hardwired but if an appliance is going straight to a socket then its got a plug, otherwise its hardwired. So the extractor and boiler are the only 2 hardwired.