He has some making good to do , no unnecessary kinks in the Trunking, my only comcern is that the main cable is coiled up and tightened with cable ties not sure that would be safe with current running through it . Someone will advise.
Rate this Job! - Cooker Hood / Extractor Install
- Thread starter SirLancelot
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Yes, it'll be fine - very little current and none of it covered.
A small fan and a couple of lamps.
A small fan and a couple of lamps.
I feel sorry for tradesmen working for you.
its fine. Don’t put doubt in this guys already pretty deluded outlook.
I'm glad you feel sorry for them.
When the previous extractor fan was removed - the wires had been improperly exposed to heat, over long enough time - to singe them (clear cut).
There was no taped/good seal between the previous (plastic) exhaust pipe - and the extractor - the top - the motor was covered in oil & gunk.
Three of the four tradesman that visited to provide a quote - said that the install was clearly tempting fate - and a fire likely.
The previous extractor was removed because the bearing had given way. If we did not remove it to identify the sound - the shambles of an install by the previous tradesman "whom you probably 'felt sorry for'" had bungled the job to the point of putting us at risk of fire.
I'm surprised in your lifetime you've never come across bodge jobs - by those whom actually - did know better.
In fact I'll wager 9 out of 10 of the community members here have experienced the same.
Just because some tradesman have the relevant qualifications - doesn't mean their quality of work is all the same - or all equally of the same competency.
Do us all a favour - search the forum - see how many 'tradesmen' recommend standard 'duct tape' for sealing cooker hoods - for an appliance where boiling oil vapour is likely extracted for multiple hours - over many years.
Rather than calling me deluded - and putting me down for my real life experience - how about you contribute to the discussion, so that others can learn something new.
People - tell me we don't all know someone who had a botched operation by an 'expert' surgeon?
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As you say. most (probably all) of us have seen 'bodge jobs'. However, there is a big difference between a 'bodge' which affects safety and/or functionality and 'untidiness' and pragmatism (but satisfactory function and safety) in relation to things which are never going to be visible.
It is true that, in days of old, many/most tradesman took so much pride in their work that they did things as 'perfectly and beautifully' if their work was going to be 'covered up' (hence not seen) for decades as if they were things which were always going to be visible (I have many examples in my home, some of which is 125 years old, and some about 250 years old). Many/most modern-day tradesmen (or tradeswomen) are equally capable of doing that, and would, I imagine, be happy to do so if that's what a customer wanted, and was prepared to pay for. However, the 'common practices'/wishes of customers, as well as of tradespeople, has changed somewhat over time!
Kind Regards, John
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I'm not so sure that he does, unless it was itemised/specified in the quote.
The OP made the hole through the wall (made it larger, anyway), so that's his job to fill the gaps, inside and out.
And I agree with BAS; that lump of plaster missing where the cable exits has probably been like it for years, so nothing to do with the electrician either.
You are both correct - the wire and socket had been there for 20 years 'as is'. The electrician put on a new face plate & the module on the side of the casing.
Question - the wire and they way it comes into the socket - does some action need to be taken over this?
I did ask him if there were any issues that needed to be addressed before he comes back on Monday - the only thing he's mentioned - is a 20 amp fuse (swap) has to be sourced for the main fuse box (incorrectly installed 30amp fuse for a radial).
I'd appreciate any advice on how to make good the gaps.
If you are talking about the 'cooker' circuit, then that is unlikely to be necessary.
Polyfilla, inside; mortar outside - although I read in the other thread silicone has been advised.
Edit - couldn't spell polly filler.
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Im a bit confused if the plug socket was already there and you made the hole through the wall larger, which is not an easy task, as well as going to fit the outer vent.
Why pay an electrician to fit the cooker hood, bearing in mind you have had bad past experiences.
Why did you not screw it up yourself and just plug it in.
As for the lead you could cut it shorter and fit a new plug, a lot of cases the plug would be cut off anyway.
I would be more concerned about what looks like a 13 amp plug with possibly a cut of cable and exposed ends on top of the cupboard.
Why pay an electrician to fit the cooker hood, bearing in mind you have had bad past experiences.
Why did you not screw it up yourself and just plug it in.
As for the lead you could cut it shorter and fit a new plug, a lot of cases the plug would be cut off anyway.
I would be more concerned about what looks like a 13 amp plug with possibly a cut of cable and exposed ends on top of the cupboard.
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No, it's better that he actually bothered to use a gland on the cable entry.
The previous extractor fan - was making screeching noises - bearings were gone - 20 years use.
Upon removal - there was no seal (tape or clip - nothing). The wires were signed (I kid you not).
We have a number of tradespeople visit - they told us the fan - the motor were covered in oil - due to the lack of seal. The wires even at their bear ends were covered in oil. And we were lucky that there hadn't been a fire due to the quality of work administered previously.
So - the electrician - replaced the socket case and front - put in that module you see sticking out the side.
He affixed the unit to the wall - attached the reducer + pipe. Sealed it up with the tape.
He also took a look over our main fuse box - and found the entire kitchen (excluding oven) was off a single radial - rather than ring - and is coming back on monday to swap out the 30amp fuse that the radial is connected to for a 20 amp one.
Basically, my family have been screwed around by the previous fully qualified tradesmen we've paid to do work in the house - and this guy has been called in to see what issues/fixes need to be implemented regarding the fusebox + he was asked to install the new extractor fan so that it is safe this time.
Given that we've been sitting on a direct fire hazard for under 20 years ( a simple kitchen hood extractor) - I was unwilling to take the chance - that a novice like myself - could get something wrong. As an insurance policy - for peace of mind - I've posted the job up here on the forum - so that this time - done once - done right.
Any oil vapour should be captured by the grease filter, which requires regular replacement (or cleaning for the permanent types).
Not good for air flow, but can't see it makes an electrical problem.
Which wires were singed?
All your greasy fumes will go through the fan anyway. How would it make a fire more likely?
That would depend on the size of the wire so we will assume he is correct.
If he is correct, that has been more of a fire hazard than the fan.
Any vs all - which do you mean.
Not even commercial grade extractors used in restaurants capture 'All'.
We replaced the filter paper - every month - as required.
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