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Sorry one more thing, I asked him why he did not do the insulation resistance test as some of you suggested and he said because he has to disconnect almost all the lightings and fittings and boiler etc in order to do that and as this was a fairly recent installation he did not feel he needed to do that. He said he mainly performs this test on older properties where there are rubber cables involved...
My 1st house was wired in old lead sheathed rubber insulated cables. The slightest movement split the lead so the whole house was quickly rewired before our 1st child arrived.
I asked him why he did not do the insulation resistance test as some of you suggested and he said because he has to disconnect almost all the lightings and fittings and boiler etc in order to do that
I bet someone can find a previous long thread about that. I honestly don't know what needs to be disconnected, if anything.
It should be possible to test L-E and N-E resistance without any concern about connected appliances. For L-N resistance at >250V, you may want to disconnect things. Unplugging things with plugs, turning off FCUs (e.g. boiler), and turning off light switches should protect them.
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