Recommendations for New Oil Burner - Equivalent to Riello G2SX (419T55)

They just might get a bit oily/dirty on the insulators, a quick wipe is generally sufficient, The gap/dimensions rarely if ever require adgustment, I have a 18 year old Firebird (G5X burner) and the electrode gap is still exactly 4.3MM, the burner has never tripped on combustion failure in that 18 years.

Did you get a flue gas analysis?.
 
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I fear cjcoffin may be right - I'm not getting that characteristic buzz from the transformer after 12 seconds, so I don't think the ignition sequence is getting as far as producing a spark.

I'm starting to wonder if I should try another photcell from a different source. The new one appeared to read ok on a multimeter, but it's not a Riello branded part (Beckett?).

I haven't had a flu gas analysis done since moving in and don't have any service records. Going by the amount of soot in the baffles I doubt it's seen a service in recent years.
 
I would try the genuine photocell, is the fan still just running and running with no lockout?, if you now remove the photocell, does it still not lockout after 12 secs?.
 
Yes, the fan just keeps running and never goes to lockout. Despite what Riello say in their guidance, removing the photocell and running without makes no difference and it still won't lockout.
 
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Thats very strange with a new control box, can't see a new photocell curing that when its removed?.
 
As the burner is approaching 30 years old I thought that particular test procedure may not apply, but I gather the 530SE control box was used much later than that. As far as I know it's a genuine Riello part and came sealed from a reputable source. It's very frustrating as I was hoping it would be one of the 4 electrical issues listed in their fault finding chart.
 
I'll ask around, this place is infested with Firebirds since their headquarters are not far from here.
 
Any ideas are welcome.

Quick search online reveals that "Beckett" is a brand of photocell sold on AliExpress, so perhaps I've bought junk that's not up to specification.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/293608111850
 
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Possible I suppose but dont know what difference it makes when its removed, I think that a failed solenoid coil will also cause the same problems so maybe ensure that you have the correct one.
 
A very experienced guy just informed that a failed coil can cause the same problem, if so, and the new coil is OK (and maybe the old one was OK as well) wonder could it be some wiring problem as some functional test must be carried out.
 
The new solenoid coil was official sealed parts, but I haven't tested it with a multimeter so guess I had better do that now too.

Fault Diagnosis.jpg


Boiler Start Up.jpg
 
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Can you do a bit of M.meter testing (with the control box removed) from the terminals shown, this should check the integrity of some of the the wiring?.

1699947269784.png
 
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I'll run a continuity test later this week on the off chance something is wrong with the wiring.

I've ordered another photocell (Riello this time) in case the generic one is duff.

If I can't get to the bottom of things by the weekend, I think I'll need to consider a new burner unit to get me through the winter - any recommendations for a replacement?
 
I will enquire, your burner has a very big range at 12 to 24kw, what is it jetted to and what type of fuel?.
 
Regular 28 sec kerosene and the output range is 50-82 BTU/HR, but I have no idea what it's set up to unfortunately.

In the Firebird boiler manual the 50-82 model is listed under the "Conventional Flu Boiler House Model" section but when I refer to the start of the manual for the specifications it doesn't list this particular model. The closest which has the same burner type and blast tube combination is the 50/70.

Burner Model.jpg


Boiler Size.jpg
 

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