Removing brickwork safely.

Angle grinder blades are not deep enough, and a Stihl saw is not ideal

If the mortar is soft enough a hand saw is safer, less dust, less vibration and just better. Less dramatic though, so not for TikTok builders.
 
Hi N,
I will seal the angle with silicon liquid. Not professional, but that's the plan!
C
You could cut a V out of the brick and resin bond it as shown. It's how squint bricks are often made nowadays.
IMG_20260826_190756.jpgIMG_20260826_190813.jpg
 
Yes, you are right, i can see it now. At first I thought it was a scam damp prevention device.
 
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Path of least resistance... why not face them with sand/cement and then use a mix of PVA and Sika mortar coloured powder.

A mate of mine is an amazing brick pointer, if the brick doesn't warrant removing, he faces it.

The following photos are a job where he removed the existing render- see the house next door, is was rendered at the same time in the past- He got me to cut a straight line through the neighbouring render. I then painted the exterior masonry.

The most of the red rubbers (red bricks) needed to be replaced. The photo should give you an indication of how many bricks were removed in the initial phase without compromising the integrity of the wall.

Many of the arch bricks were faced with sand and cement to keep the cost down.

View attachment 421134

View attachment 421135

Path of least resistance... why not face them with sand/cement and then use a mix of PVA and Sika mortar coloured powder.

A mate of mine is an amazing brick pointer, if the brick doesn't warrant removing, he faces it.

The following photos are a job where he removed the existing render- see the house next door, is was rendered at the same time in the past- He got me to cut a straight line through the neighbouring render. I then painted the exterior masonry.

The most of the red rubbers (red bricks) needed to be replaced. The photo should give you an indication of how many bricks were removed in the initial phase without compromising the integrity of the wall.

Many of the arch bricks were faced with sand and cement to keep the cost down.

View attachment 421134

Hi O,
He's far more skilled than me!
C
 
That's the cause of the spalled bricks then.
Not necessarily.

The bricks have fared worse beneath the plinth. This tells me that the bricks below the plinth should have been decent FL rated fellas, down to the fact that the plinth itself is more likely to collect water and transfer it to the masonry directly beneath.
 
Hi All,
It's possible that I don't have to do it, and someone else will do it, so I'm just planning in case!

There is an air-brick at the bottom of the picture, and the damp course is just below it.

I suspect that there is brick rubble bridging the cavity, from an upstairs window addition, which if I do this job, will check for bridging.

Lots of comments, thanks, I'll let you know what happens.
C.
 
There's no need for a hand saw or for going through the full 4"(100mm) of mortar.
A hand saw could be use but it would b easier to use a grinder.
A 125mm angle grinder will cut to 35mm - 40mm depth.
Thats a depth that will give an adequate start for removing a perished brick without damaging the surrounding bricks or chipping their arrises.
 
Why do you guys make things difficult?
There's a dedicated tool for this:


Better ones online.
If mortar is still strong, pre-stitch drill.
Easy peasy
 
Hi All,
I have 'J''s mortar raker, and a reciprocating saw with tungsten blade, and a disc cutter.
I find the disk cutter difficult because I lose track of the line of mortar, and damage bricks (old age I think?)
C
 

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