Rendering Problems-pics added

[huddsspread]

In the summer i done a job for a lady, rendering the stone in a cellar sort of area. To explain, the main road/street level comes to the heigh of where your roof would be. Its a house on a house, ( manchester road linthwaite ) Now water from the path and road sort of end up in this outside sort of cellar area....

After i had rendered it, she rang me about 6 weeks later saying something was wrong. When i got there, it was falling off like powdery sand and had gone mouldy. Scratching my head i was stuck. The render was waterproofed so no water could get under or in from the front.

Eventually i found the otherside of the wall was the kitchen and the sinks waste had been leaking for years ( it was not a clean and tidy house ) i pulled out the back of the cupboard and hey presto the wall was mouldy,soaking and manky. Now 6 months on, the people have moved out and she wants me to fix it. She knows its not my fault etc.

So im in a quandry, as what to do, as i dont want to re do it and for it to do it again. I plan to hack it all off and let the wall dry for a week, or if its bone dry behind then re do it. If it isnt dry then i cant do it as itll trap the water still in it, but she wants it doing as she wants to sell it. i have a few options but any suggestions will be appreciated. i did take pics at the time but dont know if i can find them.....
brad

 

[roy c]

You could hack all the render off and rack the joints out, and if the area is dry then you could put a stud wall on a dpc in front of it We did that with a basement cellar years ago and have been back recently and all is still well. Also you could re-point up the stone work if it is nicely faced!!

Forgot to mention you would have to put some air vents in the stud work for an air-flow....I take it that it would it be inside the cellar?

 

[peaps]

In the summer i done a job for a lady, rendering the stone in a cellar sort of area. To explain, the main road/street level comes to the heigh of where your roof would be. Its a house on a house, ( manchester road linthwaite ) Now water from the path and road sort of end up in this outside sort of cellar area....

After i had rendered it, she rang me about 6 weeks later saying something was wrong. When i got there, it was falling off like powdery sand and had gone mouldy. Scratching my head i was stuck. The render was waterproofed so no water could get under or in from the front.

Eventually i found the otherside of the wall was the kitchen and the sinks waste had been leaking for years ( it was not a clean and tidy house ) i pulled out the back of the cupboard and hey presto the wall was mouldy,soaking and manky. Now 6 months on, the people have moved out and she wants me to fix it. She knows its not my fault etc.

So im in a quandry, as what to do, as i dont want to re do it and for it to do it again. I plan to hack it all off and let the wall dry for a week, or if its bone dry behind then re do it. If it isnt dry then i cant do it as itll trap the water still in it, but she wants it doing as she wants to sell it. i have a few options but any suggestions will be appreciated. i did take pics at the time but dont know if i can find them.....
brad

Hi Brad, I would use Sika 1, paint it on as a slurry. It costs but it's the best slurry I've used IMO.

A lot of water comes off them hills and cuases alot of damp problem in houses on Manchester Road. Done many houses up that end.

You can also apply it when the wall is wet!!

 

[huddsspread]

As you can see its outside, not an inside cellar. I stopped as i was driving past and had a look earlier. The sand is like it was done without cement, and you can dig your finger in and start pulling it off. I cant get in the house till thursday, to make sure the leak has stopped.

What i want to do is paint something on the wall so the render grips to it, like bluegrit etc...or a slurry type. As i then want to scratch and float over the top.

Because the wall was wet from the inside, it has not allowed the render to dry properly or at all, and the cement has just vanished.

But i could wire it, but is should have been ok as it was mostly brick, with a bit of stone round the window.

I have used green gypbond in an outside room before, as it was becoming an inside room, so i wonder if i could use some on this, as its technically outside, but half covered up? And would it be of any advantage?

i dont want to do it again and cost the lady money, when the wall still has water in it and stops the render going off again....

Brad

 

[roy c]

I know this is a silly question but who mixed the muck up for you and are you sure it was gauged right with the cement? When you first rendered it did you hack it all off back to the stone then dubbed it out scratched and floated? It looks like something in the backing has come thru.

 

[huddsspread]

Done it myself! The sand that was delivered was just very orange plastering sand, so ignore the colour of it. It really looks like and feels like theres no cement in it!! Unless wickes was lying to me that day, and it was grey sand hidden in a bag of blue circle....

I've never had this before, so thats why i thought id ask. Im thinking as the leak was soaking the wall from the other side, its lifted the render, or pushed it off. or made the cement rot instead of set...

BUT if you look at one picture down the alley, where the wall is white paint, that render is falling off too, as i was knocking on the door i stuck my finger in it, and it was falling off like white sand. Now this has been on years and years.

The area is damp, but i done it in june when it was warm. Think ill scratch it and leave it a week, and go back and make sure it solid before i rub it up. Or/and use sharp next time, wont be as good a finish as plastering sand but, anything is beter than what it is!

 

[cotswoldbuilders]

Are you sure it wasnt building sand, a lot of spreads wont use Wickes sand for rendering.
Id knock the lot of, sbr slurry prior to scratch and float coat.

 

[huddsspread]

no it was plastering sand, and it wernt from wickes. I just got the cemet from there as i had a £10 voucher thing.

As for the slurry, whats the best way, as i aint ever used it, and if its good i may do my cellar in it too. Wheres the best place to buy it? is it the paint on one, or the stuff you knock u with sand and cement, and make it like porridge?

is this the stuff peaps?

http://gbr.sika.com/en/solutions_products/02/02a024/02a024sa03.html

just paint it on and thats it?

 

[cotswoldbuilders]

I havent used the Sika product, but have used Febond sbr, basically dilute as per instructions, mix it with neat cement to a thickish but brushable consistancey, apply the scratch coat while still tacky.
Aids adhesion, prevents cracking and damp.
From all the Merchants and screwfix, about £17 5ltr.

 

[huddsspread]

how long does it take to go tackly? if its an hour or two i can pick my nose then scratch it...

seen both the sbr additive on screwfix silka and the other. So just get a bucket lauch it in with some cement and water slap it on?

 

[peaps]

SBR is good stuff but Sika is the RollsRoyce.



Efflorescence may be your problem here.

http://www.stuccoguru.com/resources/article.cfm?articleID=C-02050&resourceID=4

Good read all the same.

 

[huddsspread]

that sounds like exactly what has happened. maybe ill print that off and take it with me and let her read it.

It says about an acid wash, but i was wondering if the slurry will stop this too? As i dont want to hide the problem, or mask it.

There are so many answers to different problems!!

Would you lot sbr and render? Could still do with knowing how long till its tacky? As im going thursday, so probably doing it this weekend.

 

[cotswoldbuilders]

In the present weather about 20 minutes to go tacky, depending on back ground.
If its a warm day, you will need to follow on from someone laying on the sbr.

 

[huddsspread]

Ok cheers for that. Itll be in this weather and this weekend hopefully! I shall use my big wire brush attatchment and frind all the bricks and stones back, get all the rubbish off.

Does it have to go tacky? i mean what if i left it longer? i mean painted it on, then knocked up and scratched it? If i need to i ll get someone to knock up while im painting....


Also any one tell me which merchants sell blue grit? i can get it online, but i have to wait for delivery. There is a place in huddersfield near the stadium, but they want £33 a tub, and id rather wait a few days and get it delivered, and im not paying £33 for something i can get or £20.....scrooge....

thanks again. Ill take pics of each stage of th job too...maybe ill get a pic of the horny p@rn star lady whos house it is....lol

 

[peaps]

Brad you ill need to sort out the water problem or you will see the same happen. I've seen this happen many time but this has gone very quickly. You will need to knock off all the affected area to remove the problem of salts or it will just come back. Good clean sand is needed and I would look into the addertive you used. There is alot of water coming off that hill and if you look at whats above, Crossland moor, marsden moor ect you have alot of water that may/has alot of mineral content. I would suspect the same for the tap water. She need to sort the drain out also.

Sika 1 will be ok after 24 hour. Ihave a bag you can try out and I'm up that way today so I will give you a ring and we can arrange to meet.