Replace Lifestyle LP111 with Horstmann Wireless Thermostat

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Hello. I would like some advice regarding whether this will work.

I have a Lifestyle LP111 controlling an Alpha Combi boiler (CB24X). It is programmed to come on in the morning and evening, and I use the advance button to turn it on, as and when needed.

I have purchased a Horstmann HRFS1 Programmable Room Thermostat and want to replace the Lifestyle unit. Here is what it looks like:


The thermostat manual can be had from here: www.horstmann.co.uk/downloads/ElectronicDocuments/ThermoStats/RF Programmable Room Thermostat.pdf

Is this a simple job, or am I calling somebody in? Thanks.

EDIT: The back of the thermostat looks like this:

 
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Turn the power off and remove the fuse.

red wire to center terminal. L=live
Blue wire to botom terminal N = neurtal
Yellow wire to top right terminal SL = switch live.

If your not confident with electrics dont try it.
 
I've got no problem turning off the electric at the fusebox.

I understand what you're saying about the blue and yellow wires. But what am I doing with the red?

Thanks.
 
Blue goes in the N

Red goes in the L next to it.

The yellow goes to SL

Leave the link in.

Note the red goes in the bottom L next to the N, and not the top center
 
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See the red wire on the unit you put the red wire from the cable into one of the same terminal holes (two wires in one terminal is ok. make sure its good and tight).
 
This seems pretty simple but there are two different opinions here. Am I putting the red in the top or bottom L hole?

Thanks.
 
This seems pretty simple but there are two different opinions here. Am I putting the red in the top or bottom L hole?

Thanks.

The instruction manual that comes with the clock will say the bottom L.

The reason is the stat can be used for volts free switching without the link.
 
Yup. Checking the manual states: "It is vital to connect the live into this terminal to avoid overloading of the jump wire". And it's talking about the top centre.

Thanks for the help.
 
You would have thought that a manufacture would have installed a wire that would take the maximum load required. They must have saved at least £50 on a couple of thousand units using less copper wire. :)
 
Just read the manual for the HRFS 1. :rolleyes:

I would have have though the bridge wire would more than take the load (3amp), and certainly be a lot simpler.
 
Yup. Checking the manual states: "It is vital to connect the live into this terminal to avoid overloading of the jump wire".

.

Not exactly bell wire is it , top/bottom makes no difference. :rolleyes:
 
Thanks for the help. I seem to have got that sorted. Now I have to programme the bl***y thing. Merry xmas all. :)
 

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