replacing a 10A plug with 13A

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Hi DIYers, I bought outdoor lights a couple of years which has a 10A 220v-240v (50-60Hz) 3-pin plug (picture attached). Product made in China. one of the pin in the plug broke while I was trying to run the lights outside. Can I replace this plug with UK standard 13A (UK plug)?

Broken Plug

broken plug.jpeg





UK Plug

UK plug.png
 
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I'm afraid that is an example of an illegal/counterfeit plug that shouldn't be allowed in this country.
There is no fuse.
The earth pin is sleeved.
The pin spacing/sizes are probably wrong.
The spacing between the pins and the edges of the plug (where you can grab it) is far too small.
The product is of inferior quality as evidenced by the breakage.
UK plug pins are usually solid brass. This one appears to have a wire connecting it to the tip, with a hugely reduced structural integrity.

This product shouldn't be used.
The cable it is connected with, is likely to be counterfeit/inferior quality also.

This doesn't say much for the device that is connected at the other end.

Post a picture of that, for an opinion...
 
Last edited:
Wow...I've been using it for 3 years now. Should I stop using it? This is the other end of it. Think I got this from Wish.

lights.jpeg
 
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it's connected like this
Not being there, I can not be certain.
However, given the state of the plug, I would be fairly confident that this supply isn't CE approved, hasn't met the appropriate standards, and wouldn't be suitable for use in the UK.
The exposed inner cores of the lead entering the controller, don't help either.

As with any internet advice, you are free to do as you please.
If you must keep them, it would be worth finding an electrician, who could run some appliance tests, change the plug and cable, and could help determine if they are safe to use.

Personally, I would ditch them.
 
it's connected like this

View attachment 323069
Wow you have used it for 3 years without repair?

I bet wires are pulling out and expect the white flex sheath doesn't reach the plactic enclosure :)

Chances are the white flex is so thin it may be tricky trying to fit a new plug. I won't say what others may about the quality but I'll wish good luck.

Let us know how you get on.
 
to be fair i think we need to keep our frustrations in check
people come in with genuine problems, assuming whats sold is off good quality not realizing its not so'
best not to start with negative but honest and informative as the obvious is only obvious when your informed so lets inform and help then iff they dont listen we can walk away with a clear mind ;)
 
I'm going to leave this link here:

Basically these one of the incredably common non standards compliant christmas lighting sets you can buy online from places over in the east!

Issues generally are that they are wired in very thin wire which also with poor insulation, and are often supplied with a non compliant plug that either has no fuse(like yours) or a conterfeit fuse). They also feed the LEDs in long strings straight from rectified mains, which would be alright if the insulation was upto it, but A) its very thin. B) terminations to the LEDS are via a heatshrink soldered joint, which can let dampness in and can let the cables pull out if handled roughly, and some sets have even be found with stray whiskers on the connections from new.

With LED christmas lights there are basically two ways they can be done:

1) Use a separated extra low voltage power supply with appropiate current limiting and don't worry too much about the robustness of the light string.
2) Use rectfiified mains, but make the light string very reobust with proper water sealed connections, insulated and sheathed cables, and of course fuse them appropriatly.

Most Domestic sets will do 1), while generally a lot of the sets designed for installation in city centres, parks etc do 2) but also generally they are kept at a height that can't be reached by the public as well

If you must keep using your lights, then fit a plug with a 3A (or even better 1A) fuse, but thats rather like telling you that you should wear your seatbelt when driving a car with no brakes - it is clearly an improvement on not doing so, but it is still far from safe
 
I'd really recommend throwing them away they are are huge electric shock risk, running a dodgy 230V fairy light set outside is just asking for trouble. As mentioned above the wires are likely far too thin with bad insulation, and any damage that occurs leaves a live wire sitting in a hedge. On my own SELV christmas lights the wires can end up fraying and can have exposed copper after many years use, but at least it doesn't leave a shock risk. Yours would, so please just get rid of them.
 
Before Wilko collapsed, I got quite a few Christmas lights. Because the current load is so low on LEDs, I find the battery powered ones will easily run through the season on one set of batteries, and I can use them indoors or out with no mains supply. They are a bit safer though it was the convenience that attracted me.

In a few cases I have also used individual battery operated ones to show the position of light switches in dark places, the batteries last a very long time.
 
Many years ago when I was young, green and naive I bought a set of external coloured LED Christmas lights on ebay. The icicle style ones that traditionally would be hung from the gutter.

I thought I had gotten a good deal given the low cost.

I went out one day to untangle them during a typical British winter storm of rain and strong wind and started to get a tingle whenever touching them as they were wet.

Promptly took them down and disposed of them and learned a lesson to buy from a reputable retailer only.
 
Thanks guys - Appreciate your feedback ... They are straight going to the bin...now can you please share a few good links to purchase outdoor lighting, probably 100 meters.
 

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